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Old 04-10-2008, 03:33 AM   #11
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Definately do a large water change to get your ammonia level down, 4ppm is too high. Since you already have 1ppm in your tap water it may be difficult to get it below 1ppm, so try to get it as low as possible. Definately use Prime or another quality dechlorinator the detoxifies Ammonia and follow the dosing instructions to dose higher to neutralize the Ammonia.

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Old 04-10-2008, 07:12 PM   #12
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Will Do. Thanks. I will let you know what happens.
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Old 04-11-2008, 08:47 AM   #13
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I agree with the opinion that your cycle has restarted due to the installation of brand new filter media (without keeping the old for a while). Don't worry too much about that. It's all a learning experience.

Ideally, you want to keep the ammonia level below 0.5ppm. You may even need to do daily water changes of 30% or so to keep it down as low as you can.
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Old 04-11-2008, 01:31 PM   #14
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If you do a large water change Check the PH of the water you're addinning. A large shift in PH can kill fish. If it's 8.8 out of the tap I'd use a buffer to drop it so it's really close or the same as the tank water. Seachem makes buffers that you can get at your LFS.
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Old 04-11-2008, 04:50 PM   #15
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I just bought some Prime, and a couple of real plants I am so excited! Real plants!! At the suggestion of the LFS person, I also got some liquid fert for the plants. I plan a large PWC tonight. With the water level down, that will give me the opportunity to get the plants down in the gravel when I can actually reach it. I also bought a new 18,000K bulb for light, since I had not changed the bulb since I bought the tank. I will continue to monitor the chem levels and we'll see what happens!

Thanks to all!
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Old 04-11-2008, 06:06 PM   #16
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That's great Catatonic!

I wouldn't worry about using pH adjusters. They usually end up causing more problems. I perform 50 to 75% water changes weekly and haven't ever adjusted the pH. A water change is simliar to an acclimation. You're not replacing all the water and you are adding the new water slowly.
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Old 04-11-2008, 06:17 PM   #17
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Ok, that brings up another question. The process of PWC's. When I have done it in the past, I just siphon out as much water as I feel like for the time and dump it out. Then I use my old plastic drink pitchers (2.25 qt.) to fill up at the sink and dump them in the tank, basically as fast as they will fill at the tap. I try to add a tiny bit of warm water in the flow to match the tank temp so I don't shock the fish. After I'm all done, I add the necessary water conditioner, and clean up my dribbles off the glass and the floor.

Is this process how it's usually done? Or is there a better way? Should I take it slower? Would it be ok to fill a bucket (2-3g) and use that instead of the pitchers to make it go faster?
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Old 04-11-2008, 06:28 PM   #18
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There IS a better way. It's a product called a Python. It attaches to your kitchen faucet. You put the gravel vac of the python into the tank and turn ont he faucet. The suction pulls out fish waste and water then drains into the sink. When you have enough out, flip the knob on the Python at the base and it will put water back into the tank. Add your dechlorinator as it is filling or even afterwards. It will save you from carrying buckets and spilling water.

You can find this at Wal-Mart, PetsMart, petCo, and most LFS. It will make water changes MUCH faster. I can do my 55 gal tank in about 15 to 20 minutes using the Python. And that includes temping the water. If you want to continue the bucket brigade, you can. But the python is a lot easier.
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Old 04-11-2008, 06:30 PM   #19
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That sounds SO COOL!! But is the hose long enough? My closest faucet is at least 15-20 feet from the tank.
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Old 04-11-2008, 06:34 PM   #20
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Never mind. I just found it on Petsmart.com, and they have up to a 100' kit! A little pricey (50' for $50), but I think I will start saving up for one of those.
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