New Location; Strange Water

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Archon

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
Jul 5, 2014
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New Location; Strange Water; Help?

Hi All,

New to the forums and have been searching for help to a rather new conundrum. I have my current tank up and running since about 2010, but recently moved to a new area (a mile or two, but has a different water supply), and I lost a few fish when the tank (unexpectedly) cycled and had a few other water-quality issues. For the most part, they're under control, but having some trouble with my current water supply.

Tank only contains 3 danios, 4 neons, and a blackskirt (recently lost some 5+ year-old fish-- though they were showing serious signs of aging), and I want to get the water stabilized before building the schools back up.

General measures look like this:

Nitrates: 15 (still coming down)
Nitrites: 0
pH: 6.0
Kh: 45
gH: 160
Amm: 0
Chlorine: 0

Obviously, my kH is low, gH is high, and pH is too low (generally kept it at 6.5)

My problem is is that my water is coming out of the tap quite hard, with a pH below 6, and an alkalinity at around 40-60.

Never had this exact combination of issues before and looking for advice.

The lfs suggested the API pH 7.0 directly into the tank, but I really do't like changes of more than 0.2 in 2-3 days. However, they insisted, and I put about a 60% dose in (20g dose for 36g tank). Things seem ok so far, but we will have to see-- i'm thinking of just adding the pH 7 to the water changes-- but it is a bit hard to measure a "1/4 scoop".

Looking for ideas/suggestions how to handle this.

Thanks all.
 
I have similar issues with my tap water. You can add some limestone rock to your tank to help raise the ph and add a little aquarium salt to lower the hardness. (I'm not big on chemicals because in my experience they can cause swings.)


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You could add crushed coral to your filter and possibly use baking soda with water changes for buffering? ? I'm just spit balling here so please do more extensive research, I can attest to the use of crushed coral and it's ph raising ability..

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Your Tap Water

Hello Arch...

I never fret over the specifics of my tap water. Most, if not all the fish from the pet store will adapt to most public water supplies. The only thing I do is make sure the water is treated to remove the chemicals like chlorine and chloramine that the public water people put into the water to make it safe to drink. Remove them with a treatment like Seachem's "Safe" and change at least half the tank water every week for small tanks and every two weeks for larger tanks. This will maintain safe conditions for the fish and plants.

A stable water chemistry is way more important than a particular water chemistry.

B
 
Hello Arch...

I never fret over the specifics of my tap water. Most, if not all the fish from the pet store will adapt to most public water supplies. The only thing I do is make sure the water is treated to remove the chemicals like chlorine and chloramine that the public water people put into the water to make it safe to drink. Remove them with a treatment like Seachem's "Safe" and change at least half the tank water every week for small tanks and every two weeks for larger tanks. This will maintain safe conditions for the fish and plants.

A stable water chemistry is way more important than a particular water chemistry.

B

Dudeeee, not everyone has mollys and live bearers, some people actually have fish that do in fact require specific parameters and will not in fact adapt to any old water supply.. just saying... i do agree with not using chemicals though.. up your game bro, i know you got it in you...

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Tap Water Chemistry

Hello Brook...

Thanks for words, but I believe you can safely ignore the pH, hardness and the whole chemistry thing. They aren't necessary to maintain a successful, healthy tank. Granted, there may be some of the more rare species that require a specific water chemistry. But, I didn't see any of those in the post.

I may be going against what the experts say, but trying to change the chemistry of the water and maintaining it, would be wasted effort. I'd still recommend large, frequent water changes instead of messing with the tap water.

Good chatting with you.

B
 
Hi All,



New to the forums and have been searching for help to a rather new conundrum. I have my current tank up and running since about 2010, but recently moved to a new area (a mile or two, but has a different water supply), and I lost a few fish when the tank (unexpectedly) cycled and had a few other water-quality issues. For the most part, they're under control, but having some trouble with my current water supply.



Tank only contains 3 danios, 4 neons, and a blackskirt (recently lost some 5+ year-old fish-- though they were showing serious signs of aging), and I want to get the water stabilized before building the schools back up.



General measures look like this:



Nitrates: 15 (still coming down)

Nitrites: 0

pH: 6.0

Kh: 45

gH: 160

Amm: 0

Chlorine: 0



Obviously, my kH is low, gH is high, and pH is too low (generally kept it at 6.5)



My problem is is that my water is coming out of the tap quite hard, with a pH below 6, and an alkalinity at around 40-60.



Never had this exact combination of issues before and looking for advice.



The lfs suggested the API pH 7.0 directly into the tank, but I really do't like changes of more than 0.2 in 2-3 days. However, they insisted, and I put about a 60% dose in (20g dose for 36g tank). Things seem ok so far, but we will have to see-- i'm thinking of just adding the pH 7 to the water changes-- but it is a bit hard to measure a "1/4 scoop".



Looking for ideas/suggestions how to handle this.



Thanks all.


Hi, welcome.

Can I just ask if that is a cardboard strip test or a liquid based test?

It's just that at a ph of 6 or 6.5 I would have assumed a kh of pretty much 0. My water is quite soft for kh but it will hold it above 7 at around 60 so hence the question on test kit?
 
Hi, welcome.

Can I just ask if that is a cardboard strip test or a liquid based test?

It's just that at a ph of 6 or 6.5 I would have assumed a kh of pretty much 0. My water is quite soft for kh but it will hold it above 7 at around 60 so hence the question on test kit?

It's a combination honestly. I generally use the strip tests to maintain and hit the lfs if there is an actual problem for the test (its only three blocks away).

But what's really thrown me is a ph of 6 and a gH that's through the roof like that. Been fighting some nasty buildup as well.

The problem I have with limestone and coral is that it would exacerbate the hardness issue.

What about aquarium salt? Does that also effect the hardness/alkalinity?

My concern was that I've heard of that being used to lower pH in addition to softening... I guess I'm looking for two/three fixes to get everything working together--- pH around 6.5, kH around 60, and a gH at least down to something manageable (80-ish?). The fish are fairly resilient.

Also, adding new fish wouldn't necessarily effect those three items, would they?

Other option is just to leave the pH around 6: I've been trying to determine a comfortable pH for the black skirts, danios, neons, and possibly peppercorn corys. My research as is says as long as its above 5.5 I'm good...


Thanks for all the help so far!
 
Have you had a liquid test confirm ph? I've found the strip test ok for kh, not sure on gh and up to 0.5 out on ph. Actually probably best if I ask if liquid tests confirmed all readings?
 
It has. Though now you have me a bit paranoid: "what if the lfs just used the strips?" (I wasn't the one who brought in the water). I think I'll be double checking that- hah.
 
It's a combination honestly. I generally use the strip tests to maintain and hit the lfs if there is an actual problem for the test (its only three blocks away).

But what's really thrown me is a ph of 6 and a gH that's through the roof like that. Been fighting some nasty buildup as well.

The problem I have with limestone and coral is that it would exacerbate the hardness issue.

What about aquarium salt? Does that also effect the hardness/alkalinity?

My concern was that I've heard of that being used to lower pH in addition to softening... I guess I'm looking for two/three fixes to get everything working together--- pH around 6.5, kH around 60, and a gH at least down to something manageable (80-ish?). The fish are fairly resilient.

Also, adding new fish wouldn't necessarily effect those three items, would they?

Other option is just to leave the pH around 6: I've been trying to determine a comfortable pH for the black skirts, danios, neons, and possibly peppercorn corys. My research as is says as long as its above 5.5 I'm good...


Thanks for all the help so far!


I'm curious myself :)

I try to do the bare minimum of tweaking the water and buy fish types roughly suited to the water specs.

As Brookster had, crushed coral (calcium, magnesium carbonate) in the filter is a good, natural long term solution. That will also lift gh a bit but my experience has been most fish adapt.

Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is a quick fix and I find you have to be careful with dosing as it changes the water almost as added. I use it to tweak water and have a kh test kit. I have a faint suspicion new plants don't like it and it rots out the stem base (the sodium?) but haven't done enough testing and I'm told it should be fine (so maybe I'm paranoid).

Adding new fish will lead to more bacteria which tends to consume kh.
 
Out off interest I had a look at reducing gh and it looked a bit tricky without a water softener. Peat was mentioned but that would also reduce ph/kh. Sea salt I'm not aware that it would help much to lower gh.
 
I think adding crushed coral would be your best bet here. Just add it slowly. It won't have an immediate effect but will increase ph over time and increase stability.

I wouldn't worry too much about the gh in this case. Most fish will adapt given time.

As ever, just try to ensure no drastic changes take place.

I don't think softened water is really suitable for aquariums. As you may already know it replaced calcium and magnesium ions with sodium. Good for stopping that nasty lime scale in washing machines and kettles but it will only increase the dissolved solids in the water which may not be good for the fish.
 
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