nitrite Wont drop to zero

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Turbo V6 Camaro

Aquarium Advice Activist
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Apr 26, 2009
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tank has been up for 3 weeks,

Ammonia has been at 0 for 2 weeks (api AND intank contestant monitor)

Nitrite is at .3 mg/l to .8mg/l

I have an API test but my girl nor I can read it for nitrite !!!

the package says .8 and under is fine but i know 0 is much better....

I was running a HOB filter and took the media from that and put it in my sump that is now up and running for 2-3 days.

do i just need to wait it out or is there something i should be doing?

I feed the fish only what they can eat in a few minutes, I also started feeding every-other day until the levels come around

I have done 2 25% water changes in the last week also but it does not help the nitrite level much

Nirtrate = 10-20 ppm (api)

I did test my tap water as a control for the nitrite and it read 0 on both kits.

water is also has a slight "fog" cloudy to it and smells like fish water lol (witch i notice it smelled strong then the smell went away and the ammonia plumited to 0)

sump running at 500 ish gph and skimmer over flow box. 75 gallon FW tank
 
have you tested your kit against distilled water? Have you checked to make sure it's not expired?
I just bought the kit but i'll check the date on it

i have lost a few fish, they will seem fine then suddenly they die. usally starts with them at top of the tank then they die in a few hours, I have inspeced dead fish and so nothing wrong with them

other fish are happy and alive I jsut lost a betta this morning witch is odd, bettas are hard to kill lol

i don't have any distilled water i check it on the tap water and it read 0 for nitrite

edit PH is also at 8.2-8.4
 
i would just continue to do water changes, keep the nitrite below .25 by doing 50% pwc's daily if necessary. nitrite is extremely harmful to fish which is probably why you lost the betta.
 
Will do i have been checking it 2x per day to be sure, any other better nitrite test kits?

the 2 i have are very hard to compare colors on :rolleyes:
 
3 weeks isn't long, you could expect double that.
As others have said, compare your tests against tap water at least so you have a control sample to compare it against. Then your are just looking for differences in the two tubes rather than comparing it to the card.
 
What is your dechlorinator? I recommend Prime, and if you use it you can safely dose 2X at each water change. I do not know your stocking list (ie if the fish are compatible) but a small amount of salt in the water is also commonly used to prevent nitrIte poisoning. You need to be doing larger than 25% water changes as that will only decrease the nitrIte levels by a quarter which if you are at 0.8 won't help much. I know it's a bummer but you just have to do the water changes.

Can you get some splashing in the sump without causing issues? You want the water as oxygenated as possible (maybe have the spray bars breaking the surface).

Also I'd (especially if you aren't willing to do larger more frequent water changes) cut the feedings to every third day and immediately vacuum out any poo food that is on the substrate.

HTH
 
What is your dechlorinator? I recommend Prime, and if you use it you can safely dose 2X at each water change. I do not know your stocking list (ie if the fish are compatible) but a small amount of salt in the water is also commonly used to prevent nitrIte poisoning. You need to be doing larger than 25% water changes as that will only decrease the nitrIte levels by a quarter which if you are at 0.8 won't help much. I know it's a bummer but you just have to do the water changes.

Can you get some splashing in the sump without causing issues? You want the water as oxygenated as possible (maybe have the spray bars breaking the surface).

Also I'd (especially if you aren't willing to do larger more frequent water changes) cut the feedings to every third day and immediately vacuum out any poo food that is on the substrate.

HTH
we don't have clorene in our water, I still use a water conditioner though

it has dropped a from .8 to .3 over the last 2 days, still testing it daily
 
we don't have clorene in our water, I still use a water conditioner though

it has dropped a from .8 to .3 over the last 2 days, still testing it daily

Are you sure you have no chlorine? By U.S law(assuming you are) you have to have chlorine in your water, unless it is well water. But def use Prime, I trust nothing else, even the API dechlorinator.
 
Are you sure you have no chlorine? By U.S law(assuming you are) you have to have chlorine in your water, unless it is well water. But def use Prime, I trust nothing else, even the API dechlorinator.

yes i'm sure, I use API tests now but i have never seen the strips read any clorine in our water.

used it on bettas for over a year without issues.

Like I said I STILL TREAT THE WATER for it, and i do use PRIME, i'll by more thanks for the tip

Right now I have been doing 25-50% (15-30gallon) water changes every day, I also got a fish with ICK witch is not helping matter

I noticed the ick the morning after I got him and took him out a treated ASAP, up the temp to 82, added salt and used RID ICK watching other fish close..... so for no other white dots.
 
tested again tonight still at .8 so looks like water change tomarrow again !!

still treating for ick, and still no white spots on other fish so far! i'll give it a few more days then this weekend if its still clear I'll do 50% change then put some carbon in the sump
 
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