Nitrogen cycle confusion.

[Franky.2015]

Hello. I am currently doing a fish-in cycle with a 20 gallon Freshwater tank. I am using 2 zebra danios, in which I plan on keeping after the cycle is complete. I am using the Api Master test kit. So far, the cycle has been going on for two months and two weeks. I started the cycle on December 3rd 2014. I am a little confused about what is going on in my tank. I followed the proper procedures of doing and 25-30% water change everyday to reduce the ammonia amounts to under .25 ppm.* After one month the ammonia levels finally dropped to zero. Another month and two weeks passed with the dropped ammonia and the nitrites and nitrate have not appeared. Two days ago, I tested the ammonia and it rose to about* . 25 ppm and has stayed that way ever since .* There are no nitrites or nitrates present. This confuses me. Why did my the ammonia rise again?? Shouldn't the nitrite have appeared? The fish are ok. Please help.

 

[Mebbid]

First, make sure you're following the directions on the nitrate test to the letter. Including timed shaking of the vials and bottles. 9 times out of 10 that's the reason you aren't getting any nitrate readings in a tank.

 

[katiekelsey]

Why are you doing water changes? That delays the cycling. I set up a 75gal tank on 12/24. I added a small bottle of bacteria and a little bacteria from my other tank. I added 7 black skirt tetras to cycle it. I never had any ammonia or nitrites show up when I tested the water and I did my first water change last weekend. I never lost any fish. I've had nitrates for several weeks and I'm slowly stocking it. The fish are doing great. Only do a water change if the fish are at the surface gasping for air or if the water is testing high in ammonia or nitrites.

 

[Mebbid]

Why are you doing water changes? That delays the cycling. I set up a 75gal tank on 12/24. I added a small bottle of bacteria and a little bacteria from my other tank. I added 7 black skirt tetras to cycle it. I never had any ammonia or nitrites show up when I tested the water and I did my first water change last weekend. I never lost any fish. I've had nitrates for several weeks and I'm slowly stocking it. The fish are doing great. Only do a water change if the fish are at the surface gasping for air or if the water is testing high in ammonia or nitrites.

Because if water changes aren't done then the water quickly gets toxic in a cycling tank. Your addition of bacteria fully cycled your tank so it wasn't important. Frank on the other hand had no such luck. If you wait until the fish are gasping at the surface then it's too late and the damage is already done. Ammonia doesn't inhibit their breathing as much as it physically burns their gills. If they are gasping at the surface there is a long recovery time and there's no guarantee that they will survive it.

As long as there is a detectable level of ammonia and nitrite, then you aren't slowing the cycle any. Keep up with the water changes.

 

[Jferrante]

keep in mind that the API mater test kits ammonia can give false readings between 0 and 0.25ppm if it goes any higher then you definitely have ammonia.
Prime is essential and the reason why it's so highly regarded because it detoxifies ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate. But it can also mess with the results with the API Test kit when it comes to the ammonia test.
Bottled bacteria may not work. Me and Mebbid went through a debate on it and found that scientifically it's very difficult for a mixture of bacteria to co-exist in a bottle and even more difficult if stored on a shelf for an extended period of time. Refrigerating doesn't even have any positive effects on it either, in fact in most cases it's worse. Separately and with proper measures taken to "reactivate" the specific bacteria there is a better chance. But the bottles you find in stores may actually be of negative effect rather than beneficial. You'd have to order a brand new bottle straight form the manufacture for there to be relatively any chance of it working the way you want.

Just keep prime and dose every day and if everything is steady for the next week or two you're probably good to go. sometimes nitrites never show up because they are quickly converted to nitrates. this is why you should bang on the 2nd bottle real hard and shake it vigorously (since crystals form in the bottle and need to be dislodged and dissolved with the shaking for accurate readings) Then shake the nitrate test tube for 1 minute and then wait 5mins. It's a pain but it's the only accurate way to get a good reading out of it. Also look at the top of the water in the tube if it's orange and darker than looking at it from the side then there is nitrates it's just really low.

 

[Jferrante]

you should also probably do less water changes and just add appropriate does of prime instead. Unless of course it starts to rise in Ammonia or Nitrite or Nitrate. This will allow a better chance for the bacteria to colonize while still keeping your fish safe from the toxins. Don't add any fish until you have steady readings and slow increases in nitrate. New plants can also contribute to ammonia if parts of them melt but new growth should bring this back down. That's the most important part about plants is new growth not the parts that melt. As long is can keep growing it's fine for the most part. You still need good soil, ferts, and good lighting to keep it growing though and that can mean the difference between a dead plant and one that can survive in lower than recommended light levels. Plants in general are better than no plants they provide stability to the tank if you decide to go on vacation or something. You can use anubias if you don't want to worry to much about it since they are tough.

 

[Franky.2015]

I stopped doing water changes once the ammonia dropped to zero which was a month and two weeks ago. I have been doing the nitrate and nitrite tests correctly and there are no signs of any. My ammonia still remains at* . 25 ppm.*** Something is wrong and I don't know what it is. My pH is at around 7.4 and that seems normal. Is it possible that a mini cycle has occurred? How does one occur?

 

[Jferrante]

Do water changes at least once a week of 25% - 50%. This is just required for good stability. If the ammonia never goes past 0.25ppm then its likely to be nothing but a false reading. But if it rises then you probably have a mini-cycle and need to dose prime everyday till its drops back down to 0.25 ppm or lower.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice