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Old 06-20-2011, 04:29 PM   #1
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Oh please help!!!!!

I am doing a fish in cycle, I am 2 weeks in my ammoinia is nearly 0 but 3 days ago my nitrites spiked to 3.3 mg/L. I tested nitrates last night and I got a 110mg/L reading. This seems strange I did a water change last night and this morning I got the same reading. The fish seem fine at the moment.I want to know if this is normal or if I have a problem.
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Old 06-20-2011, 04:43 PM   #2
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What test kit are you using?
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Old 06-20-2011, 04:47 PM   #3
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Well you need to keep doing water changes and when you start.showing nitrates you will still show nitrites. Just keep doing PWCs. Also like asked above are you using the API master test kit or something else?
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Old 06-20-2011, 04:50 PM   #4
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My test kit is a nutrafin liquid test kit. How often should I be doing PWC? And will this set my cycle back?
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Old 06-20-2011, 04:52 PM   #5
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Any liquid test kit should be fine, presumably, but if you have the cash you can pick up an API kit which is the preferred around here. A PWC shouldn't set your cycle back too much, but even if it does, you have to do it frequently if you're fish-in cycling. I'd say at least every other day, 50%.
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Old 06-20-2011, 04:53 PM   #6
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Do a search for the thread that is called something about I just learned about cycling buy I already have fish. That will give you some good info.
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Old 06-20-2011, 04:54 PM   #7
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I just learned about cycling but I already have fish. What now?! It's this.
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Old 06-20-2011, 04:55 PM   #8
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Thanks I need to bookmark that so I can paste it in for people
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Old 06-20-2011, 04:58 PM   #9
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Thanks for the replys!!!!
All of you are so helpful. I just can't wait till this cycling is finished!!
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Old 06-20-2011, 04:59 PM   #10
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You're welcome... I went through the same thing! It's such a relief when the ammonia and nitrite stay 0!
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Old 06-20-2011, 05:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosenweiss View Post
Any liquid test kit should be fine, presumably, but if you have the cash you can pick up an API kit which is the preferred around here. A PWC shouldn't set your cycle back too much, but even if it does, you have to do it frequently if you're fish-in cycling. I'd say at least every other day, 50%.
What I'm worried about is my nitrites and nitrates spiking at the same time. I was anticipating a nitrite spike, my ammonia has already spiked and I was waiting for nitrite to spike and over night ammonia came down and nitrite spiked as I knew it would. But the nitrates are throwing me off I wasn't expecting to see much if any nitrates when I tested. 110mg/l seems like alot this early in the game.
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Old 06-20-2011, 05:09 PM   #12
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It does, but often nitrate tests are hard to read, hard to get right, or inaccurate. A PWC will fix it, nonetheless, if you're still getting the same readings after one, your test is broken. =]
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Old 06-20-2011, 06:00 PM   #13
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Can you reply with with some pictures of your setup? I recently had a huge nitrate ammonia problem I solved exactly what's happening to your aquarium.
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Old 06-20-2011, 06:25 PM   #14
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Can you reply with with some pictures of your setup? I recently had a huge nitrate ammonia problem I solved exactly what's happening to your aquarium.
I would love your imput. Here's a pic
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Old 06-20-2011, 06:35 PM   #15
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How big is your aquarium? how many filters do you run? What are they rated at? What lights do you use? How many fish and plants? Where is the heater located? Where is the aerator located? What is your substrate consistency? What chemicals and fertilizers do you use? Whats the temperature of the water? Sorry but I need all the parameters to solve your problem correctly...
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Old 06-20-2011, 06:56 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Fishkeeper88 View Post
How big is your aquarium? how many filters do you run? What are they rated at? What lights do you use? How many fish and plants? Where is the heater located? Where is the aerator located? What is your substrate consistency? What chemicals and fertilizers do you use? Whats the temperature of the water? Sorry but I need all the parameters to solve your problem correctly...
Aquarium size- 29 gal
Filter- Fluval 3u only one rated for 40 gal
Lights- I have no idea, the tank is a kit so what ever came with it.
Fish- 9 Zebra Danios
Heater-beside filter
Aerator- is on the filter
Substrate- Gavel
Chemicals- Declorinator thats all.
Temerature-76-78 F
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Old 06-20-2011, 07:16 PM   #17
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I recommend getting a brighter light for your plants and adding a substrate in the gravel like seachems flourite. that will nourish your plants. Also use a liquid plant fertilizer. Research your lights and see if they support plants. The more you take care of the plants the better they will effectively help the aquarium. Also the lights should be bright enough for good bacteria to grow. Dark aquariums can bloom bad bacteria. Also to help your good bacteria try a nitrate reducing liquid that has live bacteria in it. Like API stress zyme. Also an ammonia reducing water conditioner like aqueon water conditioner. How long has the aquarium been set up?
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Old 06-20-2011, 07:18 PM   #18
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Chemically reducing the ammonia and nitrates is not a strategy I would recomend. Keeping up with the PWCs till you finish cycling ia your best bet.
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Old 06-20-2011, 07:21 PM   #19
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Also increase the aeration and put it against the back wall away from the filter to increase water circulation and the amount of gases dissolved in the water. The more small bubbles and current the better. The best thing to compare to an aquarium is a waste water treatment facility like the big fenced in one with huge water circulation that are usually fenced in. Lol the gas increased gas exchange will grow bacteria better and help break down the bad stuff.
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Old 06-20-2011, 07:27 PM   #20
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Yes but chemically supplementing to aid the good bacteria will help developed the aquarium. Partial water changes should be done along with that process but only with continual water testing. Changing to much water can wipe reduce the good bacterial count. Remember not only should an aquarium support fish and other living things such as plants. None of that life is possible unless they have a bacterially balanced and biologically sound system.
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