Okay...API Test Results, Round Two: Please Help Analyze, Once More

[Osage_Winter]

Okay, guys and gals. It's been two days since my water change, and I was advised that this is the time to take the next series of readings from the API Master Kit, and so here are the results, again, following the directions explicitly...

High Range Ph (based on keeping goldfish; I didn't have to do the standard Ph test according to the instructions from API): 7.4 or possibly lower, which isn't indicated on the chart but it seems like my color match was lighter than the yellowish/green bar that is first on the chart...

Ammonia: 0.25 (still don't know why this won't drop to 0)
Nitrite: 0 (this dropped from my last test!)
Nitrate: STILL somewhere between 40 and 80 ppm; it's hard to read because the color is a darkish orange, but not quite very dark...

Based on these, can someone please continue to advise me based on my last round of tests? Those came out to be, just for reference:

High Ph: 8.2
Ammonia: 0-0.25
Nitrite: 0.25-0.50
Nitrate: 40-80 ppm

What do I need to do at this point? How can I get the ammonia and nitrates down? Would this be a matter of less feeding now? And what about High Ph -- is this OK at 7.4?

 

[HN1]

Water changes and controlled feeding will take care of the toxins. The lower pH test will test down to 6.0 (I think), but the pH number is much less important than stability. How often do you feed currently? I think the nitrates are probably based on feeding the poop factories, er... i mean goldfish.

 

[Osage_Winter]

Water changes and controlled feeding will take care of the toxins. The lower pH test will test down to 6.0 (I think), but the pH number is much less important than stability.

Although you lost me just a bit here, what I reported was what I read on the instructions for the kit -- it mentioned goldfish falling into the "High Range Ph" so I only tested for that in terms of the Ph testing...

What I reported tonight was after a water change, 48 hours prior...

How often do you feed currently? I think the nitrates are probably based on feeding the poop factories, er... i mean goldfish.

LOL...I feed twice a day, enough for the three of them to consume in around, say, five or more minutes. Should I cut back?

What should my nitrates be at? Are my numbers of concern?

 

[Osage_Winter]

Anyone else?

 

[mfdrookie516]

No certain type of fish fall in to a category for pH. What you need to do is get a baseline and go from there. I dont use the standard pH test for my tanks because they all run 7.8 which requires the high range test. If you're not getting reading on the high range card, you need to switch to the standard pH test.

There's not really a certain number your nitrates should be. It is debatable on what they should be under, but IMO, you should try to keep them under 40. While I'd aim for less than 40, under 60 should cause no issues. I think once you're able to get your water change routine figured out, you'll be able to keep them down around 20 with weekly water changes.

 

[HN1]

Although you lost me just a bit here, what I reported was what I read on the instructions for the kit -- it mentioned goldfish falling into the "High Range Ph" so I only tested for that in terms of the Ph testing...

What I reported tonight was after a water change, 48 hours prior...



LOL...I feed twice a day, enough for the three of them to consume in around, say, five or more minutes. Should I cut back?

What should my nitrates be at? Are my numbers of concern?

The kit may be recommending a pH range for goldies, but it can't possibly tell you which range your water falls into and there for which kit you need to use to test with. What is your tap water pH (after sitting out overnight)? That answer will tell you which pH kit to use. pH is of very little importance to you right now though.

We have 2 large ryukins from our pond in a tank for the winter and we feed once every other day. I think overfeeding is likely a contributing factor in the troubles you've had. The good news is its easily corrected.

Nitrates should be maintained under 40 IMO. We target all our tanks to stay under 20.

 

[Osage_Winter]

No certain type of fish fall in to a category for pH.

But the instructions for the API kit said they did...

What you need to do is get a baseline and go from there. I dont use the standard pH test for my tanks because they all run 7.8 which requires the high range test. If you're not getting reading on the high range card, you need to switch to the standard pH test.

Okay; I suppose that's where I went wrong. When I tested for High Range, the color in the test tube seemed a good deal lighter than the lightest color on that chart for High Range Ph -- would this indicate I need to switch to standard Ph?

There's not really a certain number your nitrates should be. It is debatable on what they should be under, but IMO, you should try to keep them under 40. While I'd aim for less than 40, under 60 should cause no issues. I think once you're able to get your water change routine figured out, you'll be able to keep them down around 20 with weekly water changes.

Again, the instructions seem to contradict that a bit -- API claims they should be in the 40 or so range...

 

[Osage_Winter]

The kit may be recommending a pH range for goldies, but it can't possibly tell you which range your water falls into and there for which kit you need to use to test with. What is your tap water pH (after sitting out overnight)? That answer will tell you which pH kit to use. pH is of very little importance to you right now though.

Thanks for making this clearer, HN; I don't know what my tap water Ph is, as I never tested it, but being that you suggested that it's not really a crucial reading right now, I'll move on...

We have 2 large ryukins from our pond in a tank for the winter and we feed once every other day. I think overfeeding is likely a contributing factor in the troubles you've had. The good news is its easily corrected.

Do you have any pics of your rynkins? I'd love to see them in the tank! As for the overfeeding, I am definitely going to at least cut down to once a day -- once every other day is okay?

Nitrates should be maintained under 40 IMO. We target all our tanks to stay under 20.

Wow...so API's suggestions were off a bit; my reading isn't anywhere near below 20, so what should I do? Should the reduction in food assist here?

Thanks for all your help, as well; everyone has been most kind with this!

 

[mfdrookie516]

If you're not getting a match on your high range ph card, then go with the standard ph card and see where you go there. While I agree with HN1 that your ph is not the biggest issue at hand here, you still need to monitor it to make sure it is staying somewhat consistent.

You're going to get 500 opinions on what a 'safe' nitrate reading is. While I said that less than 40 is what I'd aim for, but less than 60 was probably ok, I always try and keep mine below 20 like HN1. With weekly water changes, proper filter maintenance, a manageable bio-load, and a decent feeding routine, you should have no issues keeping them at or below 20ppm. This also applies for ammonia and nitrite ('should' always be 0ppm).

To answer your question about feeding, yes, it is perfectly fine to skip a day between feedings. I rotate and skip one day, then two, then one, then three, then start over. Fish can go for a while without food. Some people say they're fine for a week without a feeding, but that's usually just for a vacation or something.

As a side note, not real sure why API says that about ph... thats very odd IMO unless they're talking about optimal water conditions?

 

[Osage_Winter]

If you're not getting a match on your high range ph card, then go with the standard ph card and see where you go there. While I agree with HN1 that your ph is not the biggest issue at hand here, you still need to monitor it to make sure it is staying somewhat consistent.

Okay; but I was just trying to point out how I came about the reasoning for using the High Range test -- according to the directions, there was mention that "goldfish prefer a Ph of..." and I went with the High Range test based on that. This came back with a lighter-than-light yellow reading, which when matched up to the card resulted in a lower than the lowest reading for High Range Ph...I didn't know what to make of that. Does that mean I need to test only the standard Ph?

You're going to get 500 opinions on what a 'safe' nitrate reading is. While I said that less than 40 is what I'd aim for, but less than 60 was probably ok, I always try and keep mine below 20 like HN1. With weekly water changes, proper filter maintenance, a manageable bio-load, and a decent feeding routine, you should have no issues keeping them at or below 20ppm. This also applies for ammonia and nitrite ('should' always be 0ppm).

I understand there will be varying opinions on the safe nitrate reading, but what about the colors I described -- it seems the suggested safe "40" or so reading is in the dark orange section of the color chart, and my water seemed to be a darkish orange shade, but I wasn't sure exactly where it fell..can I be assured knowing at least it's in that orange hue range?

To answer your question about feeding, yes, it is perfectly fine to skip a day between feedings. I rotate and skip one day, then two, then one, then three, then start over. Fish can go for a while without food. Some people say they're fine for a week without a feeding, but that's usually just for a vacation or something.

Can fish actually "starve"? How long would this take?

Right now I am going to cut back to once a day and see where that leaves me...

As a side note, not real sure why API says that about ph... thats very odd IMO unless they're talking about optimal water conditions?

For the directions for Ph testing, it mentions, clearly, different species and what kind of "Ph" they prefer -- based on the goldfish classification, I used the High Range test because that's where the goldfish number fell...

 

[HN1]

I'll take some pics and post a tacky goldy tank thread tomorrow (wife's idea and turned out very cool in a cheesy way).

I have fasted fish for up to 7 days without issue. It depends on the type and size of fish though. Except for fry, a 2-3 day fasting won't harm any and its an often overlooked "tool" to combating water issues and algae problems.

 

[Osage_Winter]

Thanks...

Please alert me in this thread, if you remember, when your pic thread goes up...