PH and KH problem

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Use 50% RO water, it will cut your hardness in half.. that's the absolutely easiest way.

Hyrules, If you think it needs a water change then sure, what he's saying is to make a note of how much you add, break that down to / Gal and make sure to add that much with each water change to keep it even.
 
Well i've been playing with my tester kit for almost an hour now on tap water and baking soda. I've done a major water change. 50% of my water was changed. I wont add baking soda now since my ph is now ok i`ll just wait and see how fast it is dropping before i need to add KH. I`ve also noticed that my hot water ph ( slightly higher around 7.2 ) is not the same as the cold water ph though i need to make a mix of cold and hot water to get my temperature right when adding water.

PH is 7.0 - 7.2 more or less
KH is still low 40 mg/L
Nitrite is 0
Ammonia is 0

is currently in the process of raising water temperature to eliminate Ich which is starting to show itself i must had somehow stressed my fish but ill get rid of it by heat not chimicals.
 
I`ve tested my PH and KH late yesterday evening. my ph is still around 7.0 - 7.2 and my KH is still very low around 40 mg/L. Though my water is cloudy it will return clear with time.
 
Please keep in mind the reason your pH is dropping - your tank load of 6 gouramis and a clown loach are producing enough waste to acidify the water rapidly. Acids cause pH to drop, and this will happen more readily without the buffering agents in the water (KH in this case), as discussed above. This is a valid issue, but you are going to be constantly battling your pH and KH, "chasing the dragon," so to speak, with a heavy fish load like you have. If you have less acidifying processes going on in the tank the pH will be more stable, even without more buffers.

Gouramis can be territorial and aggressive, even, so having 6 in a 15gal can certainly prompt an outbreak of ich, though the stress of adjusting water params will do it also, as you suspect. You may also be aware that the clown loach has the potential to get extremely large, and incidentally they are very prone to ich.

My approach would be to go down to two gouramis and the loach (for now, as he is small) and consider a small school of tetras to fill in some space. That fish load would be much easier to manage in terms of keeping water params under control, and it would be more comfortable for the gouramis.

If you feel the fish you currently have are living harmoniously, then I'd switch to a religious water change schedule of at least 50% per week, or split that up in twice-weekly PWCs. A change in PWC schedule needs to be done gradually, as the fish are acclimated to the current params, especially what I would guess is high nitrate.

I certainly don't mean to preach or tell you how you should keep your tank, but I just want to point out the reason behind the issue that you are trying to correct. Best of luck!
 
Well thank you for your input. I never tought that my tank was crowded. As the rule of thumb is 1 fish per gallon as i remember. so 7 fish is/was quite enough for a 15 Gallon. Though you maybe right, i cannot "flush" or get rid of 3 or 4 fishes easily. Though they seem to be getting along fine right now as my decorations doesn't take alot of space and there are a couple of places to hide for them. If i had to change my tank which size would you recommend for these fishs ? I eventually plan to buy a 55 Gallon tank but i lack the place to install it. I greatly like and appreciate aquarium but water changes are quite a burden and troubles so would there be any alternative to weekly water change. Surely there is a natural way to keep the buffer high so my ph stays around 7.0 without chimicals.
 
The "inch per gallon" rule holds true for small-bodied schooling fish, like neons, but gouramis need space for social reasons, and they are big-bodied and have a greater impact on the bioload. It is purely a question of the amount of waste being produced and how the waste affects the water quality, the effects of which you are seeing in your tank.

I would not suggest you flush any fish, and this situation is one of the reasons I have so many tanks, lol! I wind up having to separate one or more fish that is not working out, and get another tank for them. This is not a good solution for everyone, of course, and often the LFS will take fish back in for store credit, or even give you money for them.

Though buffering your water by raising KH and keeping it there will help stabilize your pH, no question, there are other problems that will arise as a result of the extra waste that accumulates in a heavily stocked tank. I can pretty much guarantee it. Additional filtration combined with frequent water changes will go a long way to offset the impact of a heavy load. If you can get yourself a Python water changing hose that will help a lot.

I think a 35-46 gal would work great for your current fish, and the larger water volume will be much more forgiving and easier to keep stable.
 
It is true that the rock in the bottom of my aquarium tend to become dirty fast you should see the color of the water when i pump up the gravel (with the cleaning vacuum like the python)to clean it. I would rather do a 2 week water change to a month than do it bi weekly. But i guess i'll wait a couple of week and go get a bigger tank. I saw a 55 Gallon at walmart for 259$ Can sure it is not equiped but a filter , a heater and some rock are not that expensive.
 
Hyrules said:
But i guess i'll wait a couple of week and go get a bigger tank. I saw a 55 Gallon at walmart for 259$ Can sure it is not equiped but a filter , a heater and some rock are not that expensive.

You won't be sorry! :D
 
TankGirl said:
Hyrules said:
But i guess i'll wait a couple of week and go get a bigger tank. I saw a 55 Gallon at walmart for 259$ Can sure it is not equiped but a filter , a heater and some rock are not that expensive.

You won't be sorry! :D

not me but my mother will be. Still 55 gallon can be quite big. But what the heck !
 
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