Please help!!!! Emergency!

[josediamond1027]

Hello all, I’ve made the biggest mistake of my life ): I set up a new 75 gallon fish tank on February 7, 2019. I was so excited, after a week I took in a water sample to my local pet store and they assured me I was ready to start adding fish.... I began with 2 goldfish. I then waited 2 days to add another, then another 2 days for my 5th. They were fine for a month, as in March 1, 2019 one of them showed signs of dropsy I knew something was wrong so I took in a water sample to the same pet store and they said the nitirite levels were really high! (5ppm) so I made a 15% water change and added “Microbe-lift Nite Out II” The next day I made another 15% water change and took in another water sample to the pet store. They said the nitrites were still high (5ppm) and nitrates were beginning to show. It has been a week and my nitrite levels won’t drop at all ): I have 3 goldfish left and I feel so irresponsible and guilty for having them live in these conditions. I’ve been keeping up with 15% daily water changes and adding Prime with every bucket of water I replace. Nitrates were at 40-80ppm today but dropped to 30-40ppm. I have also been adding API aquarium salt as this is known to block the nitrite from affecting my goldfish; although the levels are still there. Please help me! I’m not sure whether to higher the wager changes or not, I don’t want to slow down the cycle or have it restart and make it worse for my fish. What do I do? When will nitrites go away? Ammonia levels are at 0. I have also read other people having issues with my same API MASTER TEST KIT when testing ammonia because you never really reach the 0ppm indicated on the color sheet.

 

[TMaier]

Why only 15% water changes. Do 50+

 

[Reygan2]

You need to change at least 80% of their water asap. Your tank is cycling.
What kind of filtration do you have? What type of goldfish? I´m sorry you were so grossly misinformed from the petshop person. Your API kit should be fine,
I´ve started tanks for years using that kit. Nitrites are deadly, get the water change done and we´ll go from there.

 

[josediamond1027]

I tested the water:
Nitrite 2-5ppm
NitrAte 80ppm

I’ve made a 50% water change as my fish were starting to look stressed. I’ll be testing the tap water and posting results.

 

[josediamond1027]

@reygan2

 

[josediamond1027]

Tap water results:
Ammonia looks to be .25-.50 but I’ve heard other people complain about misreading with the API liquid test kit for ammonia.
Nitrite is 0
NitrAte is 0

 

[Reygan2]

Tap water results:
Ammonia looks to be .25-.50 but I’ve heard other people complain about misreading with the API liquid test kit for ammonia.
Nitrite is 0
NitrAte is 0

If you are following the directions to the letter and your kit isn't expired, then your readings are good enough. Ammonia needs to be zero. Spikes happen, so you want to keep up water changes and testing for now. Based on your earlier nitrite and nitrate reading your tank is well its way to being cycled. Still curious about your filtration. Goldfish have different needs than most tropical fish.

 

[josediamond1027]

If you are following the directions to the letter and your kit isn't expired, then your readings are good enough. Ammonia needs to be zero. Spikes happen, so you want to keep up water changes and testing for now. Based on your earlier nitrite and nitrate reading your tank is well its way to being cycled. Still curious about your filtration. Goldfish have different needs than most tropical fish.

But even in my cycled tank the ammonia reading comes out to be .25 even if the nitrites are at 0 and the nitrAte a healthy 15ppm.
I have a fluval FX6 canister filter which is supposed to filter 400 gallons. I use it for my 75 gallon (currently cycling) tank. Would it be okay if I made a small water change in about 2 hours?

 

[King Fisher]

You can still have ammonia readings in a Cycled tank.

You should keep your water at .25 ppm ammonia to feed the BB colony. If you get nitrites then do a water change. If you get ammonia above .25 then do a water change.

As far as your water percentage change remember, 50% water changes removes half of whatever you got in your tank. So if you got, say, 1ppm ammonia and you do a 50% water change you will then have .50 ppm ammonia.

 

[josediamond1027]

You can still have ammonia readings in a Cycled tank.

You should keep your water at .25 ppm ammonia to feed the BB colony. If you get nitrites then do a water change. If you get ammonia above .25 then do a water change.

As far as your water percentage change remember, 50% water changes removes half of whatever you got in your tank. So if you got, say, 1ppm ammonia and you do a 50% water change you will then have .50 ppm ammonia.

Oh okay so .25 isn’t harmful for the fish? The bacteria need that to feed and eventually convert it to nitrAte?
Yeah I now have .25ppm for nitrite, hopefully it either stays like that or gets converted into nitrAte by tomorrow ? My poor goldfish don’t deserve to be going through this..

 

[King Fisher]

That's the dilemma people have with fish in cycles versus Fishless cycles. You have to maintain a level of ammonia to feed BB and complete the cycle. Any ammonia isn't good for fish that's why keeping it low is the goal and is necessary for the cycle.

Nitrite is arguably more harmful than ammonia to fish even in low amounts. So if you have any nitrite reading I would do a PWC.

 

[josediamond1027]

That's the dilemma people have with fish in cycles versus Fishless cycles. You have to maintain a level of ammonia to feed BB and complete the cycle. Any ammonia isn't good for fish that's why keeping it low is the goal and is necessary for the cycle.

Nitrite is arguably more harmful than ammonia to fish even in low amounts. So if you have any nitrite reading I would do a PWC.

I’ve done two 50% wc today. The nitrite is at the lowest it’s ever been at .25ppm and tomorrow morning I plan on making another 30% water change, I hope to find the nitrites eithe the same at .25ppm or converted into nitrate.

 

[King Fisher]

Even when it starts converting to nitrates you will still be in the cycle and not completed. It's safe to say you are cycled when your tank can go a week without ammonia or nitrites.

 

[josediamond1027]

My nitrites went back up to 1-2ppm this morning so I made a 60% wc and rn they are at .50ppm even with the 15% wc I just made. I don't want to stress my fish out any more than I already did today, so I'll see how things work out tonight if they do and do a water change based on what my readings come out tomorrow morning.
Is there an estimate for how long the nitrites stay up during a fish in cycle?

 

[King Fisher]

I'd say having nitrites in your tank stresses out your fish more than a water change.

Hard to say how long you will be cycling and seeing these readings. A cycle can take between 4-8 weeks generally speaking.

 

[J.Mcpeak]

.25 ammonia in tap water would indicate chloramine being used by the water company.
It is used as it is more stable in longer pipe runs than chlorine.

Also, the toxicity of ammonia varies depending pH.

Good advice re. Kingfisher and the division of nitrogenous waste. Assuming the source water is good, it will divide pretty much exactly by percentage.

 

[Autumnsky]

Back up info for when you need to know something or need a quick look up
I just learned about cycling but I already have fish. What now?! - Aquarium Advice
Fish-in Cycling: Step over into the dark side - Aquarium Advice

For the basics and overall info
Guide to Starting a Freshwater Aquarium - Aquarium Advice

Be strong for the fish, sounds corny but really keep at it. Nitrite is very harmful.

Using Prime will be helpful.

Unfortunately fish store employees mostly don't even know what the nitrification cycle is. 1-7 days they frequently say, oh yeah it's cycled and you are ready for fish.

The filter is good but it needs a colony of BB. A local person with a chunk of healthy cycled media would be ideal if you can get it.

This is a respected source of cycled media.
https://www.angelsplus.com/FiltersSpongeActive.htm