Red/Brown algae on plant leafs

[lucavicini]

Hello,
I started to notice these last few weeks an increase in red algae in my main tank. They appear as dark slimy spots on the edges of plant leafs, little by little extending on the leafs top surface.

I am wondering what is causing the algae proliferation. My water parameters are: ph7.8, nitrates 0, nitrites 0, ammonia 0, water hardness 18 gh.

What is your opinion?

Cheers
Luca

 

[Mr. Limpet]

What kind of plants are they? Could be that you might have non-aquatic plants which will rot and foul your water. If you're not sure of them I'd suggest going the www.pantgeek.net to ID them. The link below is a good site for algae info and solutions.

Greater Washington Aquatic Plant Association » Algae in the Planted Aquarium

 

[lucavicini]

I remove dead leaves and plants every 3/4 days. On the other hand I have a tendency to overfeed.
The most affected plants are ludwigia glandulosa and hygrophilia polysperma. I suspect the problem is not coming from the species but because they are the most exposed to light. Thanks for the links, I am going to have a look...

 

[lucavicini]

I still have troubles in identifying the algae.
I shot a picture (here it is):

 

[Mr. Limpet]

I still have troubles in identifying the algae.
I shot a picture (here it is):

What kind of plant is that?

 

[lucavicini]

Hello,
The plant is a ludwigia. You can notice in the picture the layer of algae slime on top of the leaf. Today I will clean thoroughly the plants and do a 30% water change.

 

[Mr. Limpet]

Hello,
The plant is a ludwigia. You can notice in the picture the layer of algae slime on top of the leaf. Today I will clean thoroughly the plants and do a 30% water change.

Could be a number of issues that are causing it. If I have it right and it's primrose-willow (Ludwigia glandulosa), it needs lots of light, ferts and co2. So it's possible any of those deficiencies could be causing it to flounder.

PlantGeek.net - Ludwigia glandulosa

 

[mudraker]

it needs lots of light, ferts and co2. So it's possible any of those deficiencies could be causing it to flounder.

Very true.

Your zero nitrates will contribute to algae growth on plants, as they are starved for nutrients.

You may want to look at stocking lowlight plants such as crypts, java fern, water wisteria, and anubius. These too, will need nitrates though.

 

[lucavicini]

Ok. What I understand from your explanations, is that the algae and the plants are competing for nutrients (nitrates). In my case the algae are winning as the plants are starved for nutrients and cannot fend off the algae from settling on the leaf surface.

I have a chicken and egg problem. In the same aquarium I have several species of shrimps that have extremely low tolerance to nitrites and ammonium. Correct me if I am wrong but the nitrates are a by-product of nitrites processing. Is there a way to increase the nitrate levels without increasing the nitrites level as well?

Do you think the algae is Rhodophyta or Cyanobacteria?
(By the way the page about algae in the planted tank from the Washington aquatic plant association is great. Thanks for the link)

 

[mudraker]

algae and the plants are competing for nutrients (nitrates). In my case the algae are winning as the plants are starved for nutrients and cannot fend off the algae from settling on the leaf surface.

Bingo! The plants are probably also starving for the micro and macro nutrients such as c02, phosphate, magnesium and micro nutirients.

Is there a way to increase the nitrate levels without increasing the nitrites level as well?

Yes.

There are many aquarium fertz that can supply all the needed nutrients (expect carbon) for your plants.

Like Limpit said, your ludwigia is a medium to highlight stem plant and requires appropriate lighting. But it also requires proper fertz that include both micro and macro nutients. It will also greatly benefit from CO2.

You may want to look at stocking lowlight plants such as crypts, java fern, water wisteria, and anubius. These too, will need nitrates though.

If CO2 and fertz are not for you, I really suggest you look at lowlight plants, which will grow okay to really well with moderate lightling and plain old fish poop for fertilizer.

 

[lucavicini]

Fertilisers and CO2, might also be the silver bullet to a problem that I have right now. I assume that fertz and CO2 will lead to an increase in the phytoplankton in the water.

Out of inexperience I mixed and matched a bunch of different fish and invertebrate species in a community aquarium. For example I have Crystal Red Shrimps and Bamboo Shrimps. While the CRSs are fine, the Bamboo Shrimps are struggling skimming the sand and the substrate as they cannot feed on the limited plankton in the aquarium.

Also CO2 will help decreasing a bit the Ph (currently 7.9) that is way to alkaline for most of the species in the aquarium.

What about filtration? Should I lower the mechanical filtration or should I keep an aggressive mechanical filtration?

 

[Mr. Limpet]

What about filtration? Should I lower the mechanical filtration or should I keep an aggressive mechanical filtration?

Nope, the filtration shouldn't effect co2 or freta at all IMO, but if you run carbon it will remove some trace elements, so I'd suggest not using it.

 

[lucavicini]

Oups! I am using a largely over sized carbon filter...
I will remove it for a couple of weeks to see the effects... Alternatively I could obstruct the filter intake partially to change the filtration rate.

I routinely change the filtration media weekly for the mechanical filter and monthly for the carbon filter.

 

[Mr. Limpet]

Oups! I am using a largely over sized carbon filter...
I will remove it for a couple of weeks to see the effects... Alternatively I could obstruct the filter intake partially to change the filtration rate.

I routinely change the filtration media weekly for the mechanical filter and monthly for the carbon filter.

Does your filter have a cartridge with carbon built inside it?

There are ways to remove the carbon and still retain the fiber media or even use alternate filter media in it's place. I do that on my Aqueon cartridge filter and I just rinse the pad in tank water from a PWC so the bacteria colony is kept in tact.

 

[lucavicini]

Hello,

The filter that I have is an Aquatlantis Biobox2. It has 4 cartridges and one of them is a carbon filter (normally filled with carbon foam). In theory they are one use disposable cartridges, but since they are rather expensive (15€ for the carbon one) I reuse the cartridge by refilling it with active carbon powder. The result is that the chemical filtering is much more intense since the powder is more reactive than the foam. It's quite easy to remove the carbon cartridge and live without it.

Exactly the same way I refill the mechanical filter with synthetic fibre wool.

The biological filter is on a separate cartridge filled with sintered glass pellets (I think), I never touch this (I heard you should replace the biological filter yearly, is it true?)

 

[Mr. Limpet]

Hello,

The filter that I have is an Aquatlantis Biobox2. It has 4 cartridges and one of them is a carbon filter (normally filled with carbon foam). In theory they are one use disposable cartridges, but since they are rather expensive (15€ for the carbon one) I reuse the cartridge by refilling it with active carbon powder. The result is that the chemical filtering is much more intense since the powder is more reactive than the foam. It's quite easy to remove the carbon cartridge and live without it.

Exactly the same way I refill the mechanical filter with synthetic fibre wool.

The biological filter is on a separate cartridge filled with sintered glass pellets (I think), I never touch this (I heard you should replace the biological filter yearly, is it true?)

I'm not a fan of carbon, mainly because of the trace elements issue and as for polishing the water (why most use carbon), poly-fil does a better job IMO and it's a lot more affordable. If you can leave it out and still filter your water, I'd suggest trying it for a month and see how your tank looks, because you can always put the carbon back in.

The bio filter where the bacteria live should be used until it falls apart IMO/E. Rinse it in used tank water after a PWC and just put it back in. Don't use tap water because you'll kill the bacteria colony. Filter makers want to to replace them, so they can keep making money is all lol Mine says every 3 months and I've never replaced any (just wash and repeat) of them.

 

[lucavicini]

I will try to remove the carbon filter and see what happens.
As far as I know activated carbon is good at absorbing complex organic molecules, but rather useless for filtering smaller molecules like metals, alcohol, ammonia...

 

[Mr. Limpet]

I will try to remove the carbon filter and see what happens.
As far as I know activated carbon is good at absorbing complex organic molecules, but rather useless for filtering smaller molecules like metals, alcohol, ammonia...

Yes for DOC, they're good, but the fiber media and poly-fil do it without removing elements that you want.

Here's a link to some carbon facts I found:

Fluval 405 media? - Page 2 - Aquarium Advice - Aquarium Forum Community

 

[lucavicini]

Wow! Excellent articles especially the
Activated Carbon In Aquarium | Aquariums Life
Tonight I will remove the carbon filter and replace it with additional mechanical filtration media... let's see what happens

 

[Mr. Limpet]

Wow! Excellent articles especially the
Activated Carbon In Aquarium | Aquariums Life
Tonight I will remove the carbon filter and replace it with additional mechanical filtration media... let's see what happens

Yep. I just did a little research and a synopsis for people interested in the issue, it certainly opened my eyes as well as confirm my choice to not use it.