Situation Update...Thoughts are Welcome

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Osage_Winter

Aquarium Advice FINatic
Joined
Sep 9, 2010
Messages
807
Alright. The AquaClear has seemingly ceased making the noise I heard -- and I didn't think I really did anything on my own to stop it -- and I am not certain, but I think it is still flowing with a bit less power. The bubble wands are definitely busted; there's a gush of GIANT bubbles coming from just the center of the area that they're connected together in, but I'm not dealing with that right now...

I went to a local PetSmart tonight and bought a replacement 24" glass versa top for the one I cracked during the last water change (from Marineland) and so at least I can view the tank under the lighting once more -- however, my Red Cap Oranda seemed to be affected by a red gill issue which I assumed was some kind of ammonia poisoning, and so when I tested with a quick dip of a Jungle strip, indeed it came back that ammonia wasn't perfect. So, I dropped the correct dosage of Tetra AmmoniaSafe (three teaspoons for 60 gallons) in the water, and it seems that after a few hours now, the Oranda and the other two fantails are doing a bit better (they were acting weird as well after the water change).

I also bought one of those algae cleaning magnets which allow you to scrape the glass without going inside -- my wife tried it out and I'm not sure, but I think it got up some of the gunk on the inside front pane of the tank...

I know AmmoniaSafe and AmmoLock and products like that are poo pooed on for the fanatical hobbyists, but I felt like I needed the stuff to save my Oranda, who didn't look that great earlier. Should I redose or stop using this stuff?
 
Osage I have been following your situation for a while now. I am new to the forums and also new to having a tank by myself. I wouldn't take my word alone but when I was a kid we had something called a Diatom filter. It was an extra external filter that we hooked up maybe everyother week and ran for about an hour or so. We did this instead of water changes most times. Also we were able to hook the output to a bucket to drain tank when we did do a water change and then use the input to filter to fill the tank up after. I know for some reason they are not as popular anymore but it is something you might want to consider as an alternative. I would atleast do some research on it. Good luck with your tank.

Drummer254
 
Drummer,

This is your first post here? How long have you been "following" my situation?
 
Osage has your tank fully cycled? If not I would discontinue use of the chemicals.

If your tank has fully cycled and you just had a spike and needed to save the fish I see no problem with this as long as you don't make it a habit to replace PWC.

The only reason a lot of people are against them is because they chemically break down the ammonia. By doing this you will never built up the BB your tank will need and you need to continue adding it to the tank.

I am glad to see you back today still working at the problems.
 
Osage has your tank fully cycled? If not I would discontinue use of the chemicals.

If your tank has fully cycled and you just had a spike and needed to save the fish I see no problem with this as long as you don't make it a habit to replace PWC.

The only reason a lot of people are against them is because they chemically break down the ammonia. By doing this you will never built up the BB your tank will need and you need to continue adding it to the tank.

I am glad to see you back today still working at the problems.

I don't believe it was ever "fully" cycled. It just wouldn't cycle no matter how much time I gave it. However, I did feel as though I needed to save one of these goldies from ammonia suffocation based on its behavior and the readings I got from the strip...

I don't plan on using medications and chemicals to replace water changes -- although I don't know if I can endure another water change nightmare like I had the other day.
 
Your tank will eventually cycle it just takes time. I read your other post on your water change dilemma. I highly recommend a python... however, since you don't want a python I have a second suggestion for you.
Currently I am in Okinawa, Japan and the LFS here have gravel vacs with a self starting hand pump. It is the greatest thing ever. If you are interested in one let me know.
 
BTW -- I took another strip reading for the ammonia, and it's still in the "stress" zone...

That's with a dosage of AmmoniaSafe...
 
For one thing, strips are *generally* inaccurate - or much less accurate - than reagent kits.

Regardless it's possible that the strip is reading the ammonia that has been bound by the chemicals, so while it's testing positive, it's not actively affecting your fish.

I wonder, though... define "stress" zone...
 
If I remember what I have read about Ammoniasafe amolock etc the ammonia is still in the tank but the hazardous binding sights get taken up. So the test kit will still show positive for ammonia even though it is safer for your fish. I've been following this forum a few months now, and have read a lot of your posts in detail. Just haven't felt the need to post until now. Haven't had a chance to get pics of my tank so I haven't made a welcome page yet. best of luck with your fish.
 
For one thing, strips are *generally* inaccurate - or much less accurate - than reagent kits.

Regardless it's possible that the strip is reading the ammonia that has been bound by the chemicals, so while it's testing positive, it's not actively affecting your fish.

I wonder, though... define "stress" zone...

Interesting thoughts and points, bluerose, thanks...

I didn't realize that the AmmoniaSafe acted like a "bonding" agent and could be read by the strips -- I will try and run a test from the API kit just as soon as I can...I just wanted something quick...

All I know is that the strip's "color chart" is indicating -- when the pad turns colors after I dunk it in the water, swishing it around for 10 seconds as the directions indicate -- that the water is falling into what they deem "stress" which comes before "danger" or worse...

It's one step after "safe" if that helps at all...:(
 
If I remember what I have read about Ammoniasafe amolock etc the ammonia is still in the tank but the hazardous binding sights get taken up. So the test kit will still show positive for ammonia even though it is safer for your fish.

Okay...

I'm still a bit hazy on this one...

I've been following this forum a few months now, and have read a lot of your posts in detail. Just haven't felt the need to post until now. Haven't had a chance to get pics of my tank so I haven't made a welcome page yet. best of luck with your fish.

Well, welcome -- but why my posts in particular? Just curious...

Thanks for the luck wishings.
 
Not particularly your posts but I did notice a lot of them. i was starting a fresh water tank, so i have been keeping an eye on all posts about problems with freshwater tanks. Although this is my first fish forum I've ben on many other forums over the years and have found that i can learn more reading other peoples posts then posting my own most times.

Regarding Ammoniasafe I believe you have to wait 48 hours after your last dosage before testing for ammonia again.
 
Not particularly your posts but I did notice a lot of them. i was starting a fresh water tank, so i have been keeping an eye on all posts about problems with freshwater tanks. Although this is my first fish forum I've ben on many other forums over the years and have found that i can learn more reading other peoples posts then posting my own most times.

I see.

Regarding Ammoniasafe I believe you have to wait 48 hours after your last dosage before testing for ammonia again.

I only dosed once -- I wasn't going to dose again, as it seems the less chemicals you can put in a tank, the better, no?
 
I only dosed once -- I wasn't going to dose again, as it seems the less chemicals you can put in a tank, the better, no?

You are correct! I am pretty sure I can speak for the majority of the members here. We would like to see you keep the chemicals on the outside of the tank. It's going to take some work but I believe you can do it.
 
Yep, AmmoLock, prime etc claim to bind ammonia in a non toxic form that will still show up on most test kits. However, the best way to get rid of ammonia (other than naturally) is water changes :p A python would really make your life 10x easier. No mess and fast. If you're having trouble with your siphon you should try a different brand perhaps. I have 3 siphons and one of them just doesn't work even they they all are similar in design. I suppose slight changes in the tubeing and opening make a difference. With my good siphon I only have to jerk it up and down 3 times to get it started.

--Adeeb
 
Yep, AmmoLock, prime etc claim to bind ammonia in a non toxic form that will still show up on most test kits. However, the best way to get rid of ammonia (other than naturally) is water changes :p A python would really make your life 10x easier. No mess and fast. If you're having trouble with your siphon you should try a different brand perhaps. I have 3 siphons and one of them just doesn't work even they they all are similar in design. I suppose slight changes in the tubeing and opening make a difference. With my good siphon I only have to jerk it up and down 3 times to get it started.

--Adeeb

I just did a water change days ago...I'm NOT going through that again right now...
 
I just did a water change days ago...I'm NOT going through that again right now...

If you have an ammonia spike it's the only real way to make sure that your water is safe for your fish.

I know you've mentioned giving up several times, and I really don't think you should, however water changes are something you *need* to get off to a fine art! You're not a total dummy so there's no reason why you couldn't get it perfected, but water changes are something you need to do on a regular basis, ammonia spikes or no.

If regular water changes are going to prove impossible, then I don't see a long term future here.
 
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