Super High pH

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SHIFT_Unique

Aquarium Advice Activist
Joined
Sep 12, 2006
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148
ok i used to use AmQuel PLUS water detoxifier, and ran out and started using Prime water detoxifier

since then my water has turned cloudy and my pH reading is off the charts high, 8.0+

i did a water test of the tap water and the pH reading was around 7.0 give or take .1

did a 50% water change added the Prime to each 2 gallon jug of water i added

retested water and bam super high pH again. water is clear again, but the pH is really high and there is a little bit of ammonia showing up now. the tap water had no ammonia in it.

the test also shows a really alkaline reading.

what do i do to equalize the water. there is a 7.0 stabilizer product at my store(petco, where i work.) not sure about it. says that it buffers the phosphate, and keeps the water at a stable 7.0

yay or nay?


i have mollies, platys, sarpae tetras, silvertip tetras, julii corys

recently had a cory and a sunset variatus platy die

the other fish and other corys are fine.
 
Yay I get to say it....

"Welcome to the Forum"

I wouldn't worry about pH too much, all of my tanks run around 8.3 and everything is fine...I've got about 50 fish.

As for the alkalinity test...It's good to have a high reading...Just not so desireable to have a super high reading.

What are the other readings, like nitrite and nitrate. How much are you feeding? I don't see why you should have an ammonia reading unless this is a new tank.

Is the tank cycled?
 
nitrate is about 20ppm
nitrite 0-5ppm

i have had it going for about 3 months
 
Did you recently change out your activated carbon (if you use it) or add anything new to the aquarium (rocks or the like)?

As mentioned above standard Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate readings would be good to know as well.

EDIT: if Nitrite is above 0 then it is likely the tank is cycling again. Did you remove anything from the tank recently?
 
Well 3 months is plenty of time to get an established tank going...but it sounds to me like it's going through a minicycle. This can happen when you remove A LOT of the water from the tank or if you clean the filters thoroughly...or something of that nature to remove most of the good ammonia converting bacteria...

I don't think the pH and Alkalinity had much to do with the fish dieing, It was probobly the ammonia level.

You can dose prime to detoxify the ammonia...That will make the water a bit safer.
 
you know what i just made a switch over from my 30 gallon marineland filter to my 75gallon marineland.

i let both of them run for about 2 weeks, and took out the 30 gallon marineland

that must have caused the tank to re-cycle...

i knew i should have left the 30 in there for another couple of weeks.. all the beneficial bacteria on the biowheels is dead now..
 
If there was new activated carbon with the change out, that would also account for the pH jump as well. Should go away in a few water changes.

Right now I'd be more concerned with keeping ammonia and nitrites down. Just monitor the levels and keep them below .25 ppm via water changes and hope.
 
Don't worry about the pH. A stable pH is better than a perfect pH. What kind of test kit are you using? How old is it?
 
Fishyfanatic said:
Don't worry about the pH. A stable pH is better than a perfect pH. What kind of test kit are you using? How old is it?

I agree, a steady Ph is great, but his tap water is neutral and therefore everytime he does a PWC he is going to stress the fish. His question was why is his TANK Ph so high. (maybe something interfering with the test kit?)

Speakerman said:
Well 3 months is plenty of time to get an established tank going...but it sounds to me like it's going through a minicycle. This can happen when you remove A LOT of the water from the tank or if you clean the filters thoroughly...or something of that nature to remove most of the good ammonia converting bacteria...

Removing A LOT of water will do nothing to very little to the bacteria. Most of the bacteria live on the surfaces of the aquarium and the filter not in the water.
 
rkilling1 said:
Speakerman said:
Well 3 months is plenty of time to get an established tank going...but it sounds to me like it's going through a minicycle. This can happen when you remove A LOT of the water from the tank or if you clean the filters thoroughly...or something of that nature to remove most of the good ammonia converting bacteria...

Removing A LOT of water will do nothing to very little to the bacteria. Most of the bacteria live on the surfaces of the aquarium and the filter not in the water.

Really, I've got a 150 gallon tank that I did a total water change...within 2 days I had .2 ammonia and then came the green water...
 

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Speakerman said:
Really, I've got a 150 gallon tank that I did a total water change...within 2 days I had .2 ammonia and then came the green water...

Yeap, really. there is a difference between A LOT of water and a TOTAL water change. removing all the water you risk losing most of the bacteria in the tank due to the surfaces not remaining wet.

green water is normally caused by high light and an imbalance in dosing ferts.
 
well thanks for he information guys. hopefully i make it through this cycling process without losing my 4" black sailfin molly

he is massive


*UPDATE*

i fixed the pH its now at 6.8 and holding

the ammonia is back to 0ppm
the nitrite is at .05ppm

i just did a 20% water change with me free RO water at the petco i work at.

should put the nitrites nearly non-existant. my bio-wheels are browning very quickly so i think im in the green now.

will keep a close eye on it and do RO water changes every other day.

until its completely cycled again

cake walk. 8)
 
using the jungle 5 in 1 test strips

i have fake lava rock and 3 peices of driftwood

and live plants
 
Trash the test strips, they aren't accurate even when they're fresh, old strips are worse yet. Do yourself a favor and get an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Master Test Kit. The indicator solutions are MUCH more accurate and reliable than dip strips.
 
Get a liquid reagent test kit such as the one mentioned by Todd. The strips are junk. You don't have any seashells or other types of rock? Limestone?
 
They sell the AP test kit at your store. Pricematch your store's website at the store to get a much cheaper price.

Also stop, or severely reduce your feedings for a couple of days.

Also check and make sure you have not missed a fish/large snail death. These can cause ammonia even in a fully cycled tank.

Do you work in the fish department at your store?
 
petco doesnt match online prices. the store prices are higher because there is a labor fee added.

yes i just became a aquatic specialist, but im not the lead specialist, he knows a great deal more than me.

i actually just found a dead cory. thats the 2nd one recently...

i will look into the liquid tests, thanx
 
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