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#1 |
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Aquarium Advice Activist
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Upgrading from Wally world aquatech
I plan to upgrade from aqua-tech filter system (55 gallon tank) and I would like something that works well with plants, is fairly cheap, and easy to clean/low maintenance. Aqua-tech stuff doesn't quite clean... at all actually. Any input or would be welcome
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My paroon shark is my best friend... In fact I was thinking on having him over for dinner. |
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#2 |
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Aquarium Advice Activist
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Grab yourself an AquaClear 50 or 75 (or two, if you're filter happy). The Walmart Aqua-tech is basically a knock off of the AquaClear line, right down to the basic look and function, with the exception being that the AquaClears use proper filtration media, instead of a thin, hole-ridden sheet of mesh.
If you've got an established cycle, I'd recommend putting the Aquaclear on with the walmart special for a few weeks to allow the bacteria to migrate to the new filter, then remove the Aquatech. The Aquaclear propaganda tries to tell you you need Activated Charcoal and an Ammonia removal packet. Toss that away and buy a 3 pack of the Aquaclear foam inserts meant for mechanical (1st stage) filtration, and just run 3 of them at once. The media cradle is designed to take any combination of 3 Aquaclear filter inserts. At last count they have: 1. Foam block (for mechanical filtering) These blocks, just a thick rectangle of foam, are meant to catch the chunks and give the beneficial bacteria a place to call home. They are the most important stage, and the only one you need, so run as many of them as you can 2. activated charcoal packs These bags of charcoal will remove teeny particles and impurities from the water. If you have cloudy water, discolored water, or are trying to pull medications out of the water, run one of these, then throw it away when the problem has been fixed. 3. ammonia removal packs These are ammo-lock packs that convert ammonia into something more stable and lock it into the pack, so you can dispose of it every month or so. All they do is keep the proper cycle from happening, starving the good bacteria, and starving plants of the bacteria's product, nitrates, which they need to, you know.. live.. 4. zeo-carb packs. These are a combo pack combining ammonia removal and activated charcoal. Since you rarely need the carbon and never need the ammonia removal, skip these packs, too. 5. Bio-Max packs. These are a bag of highly porous ceramic chunks, each of which has some ridiculous amount of surface area. They give an excellent place for even more good bacteria to live, but provide little in the way of filtration as the foam blocks would. If you're running two of the Aquaclear filters, which I personally recommend (more on that later), then you may want to try out running 3 foamies in one filter and 2 foamies and a biomax in the other. That's how I'm running my 30g tank right now. Cleaning the AquaClears is simple, too. Simply remove the lid, pull out the media cradle, and rinse the cradle and your foamies off in a bucket of tank water (not tap water, as the chlorine will kill all the friendlies living in the foam). I tend to lightly squeeze the blocks out in the old water when I'm doing a PWC, and you can really see the work they do then, as the water goes from slightly discolored to horrible. Then just put the blocks back in the cradle, change the order up if you want, in order to make sure they all get a chance at the bottom, then slide the cradle back into the filter. About once every month or so, I'll take the cradle out, unplug the filter and pull the whole unit off the back and dump it out in the PWC bucket. That way, any bigger bits that didn't go through the screen into the foamies gets dumped out. With me, it's usually little leaves that fell off my Moneywort that get sucked up the intake, but never make it through the cradle's wide screen into the foamies. The numbering on Aquaclear models changed recently (couple years ago). The models used to be numbered by their GPH rating. So the Aquaclear 150 was rated at 150 GPH, etc. They've changed them to be more neophyte friendly, so now the former Aquaclear 150, a good choice for a 30Gallon tank, is now called the Aquaclear 30. Makes sense, as a good filter to tank ratio would be if your filter can turn over your tank about 5 times an hour. The problem comes in the fact that the AquaClears measure their GPH rating with no filter media in them, so a 150GPH filter, with 3 foamies in it, might only turn over 100GPH, or less. That's why I recommend running two. They're nearly silent once they get primed (full of water) and they're relatively cheap. There's no reason not to, unless you have seriously current sensitive fish or plants (or fry that might get sucked up, in which case turn the flow down until they get big and strong enough to fight the current). For your setup with the AquaTech 55 Gallon setup (I have the Aquatech 29 Gallon setup), I'd probably recommend getting two Aquaclear 50s, or one now, and think about another down the road when they go on sale. You might also look at the Aquaclear 75, though I'm not sure if the HOB filter inlets on the back of your canopy would accommodate, though I suspect they would without problem. On that note, I just realized that I've written a full page of text about the ins and outs of aquaclears. |
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#4 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Community Mentor
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I think SeanMurphy covered it all, but I just wanted to add that it's an Aqua Clear 70, not 75....
i also have one on my 55, and it's great. I use one foam block and 2 bags of biomax. However you set up these filters, they are great, easy to clean, reliable, and inexpensive, especially if you get one online. |
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#5 |
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Aquarium Advice Activist
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You are correct sir. The 70. I've only bought 30s and lusted over 50s. If I bought anything more than a 50, I'd turn my tank into a blender, I think. Especially since, as stated, I'm filter happy and I'd probably have two of them.
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#6 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,177
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I prefer canister filters just from my experience for maintenance. The Rena XP3 can be disconnected without leaking all over the place and can be rinsed once a month very easily. In my 55-gallon it leaves no dead spots for water to sit. This helps prevent the formation of algae.
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#7 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Moderator Emeritus
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Although I dearly love Aquaclears (I have about 50 of them), I would suggest a canister filter here. A canister fits the criteria better in that it is low maintenance (less than an Aquaclear) and will do better in a planted tank than would an Aquaclear (or any other powerfilter). I would suggest a Penn Plax Cascade 1000 or 1200, or a mid-sized Eheim 'classic series' canister, with the former being more affordable.
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G. A. Christian Bilou, Zoologist/Writer Founder/Director, Reptile Rescue Alberta Vice-President, Calgary Aquarium Society www.calgaryaquariumsociety.com Polypterid/Primitive Fish/Ctenopoma/Catfish Fanatic 62 Aquariums, 2200+ total gallons, Aquarist since 1971. |
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#8 |
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Aquarium Advice Activist
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Well it's been awhile and I finally have a job and have enough money to treat my fish with a new eheim classic series cannister (I already gave myself a present, a python filter/vacuum and decided my fish needed something too). Just one more question... I may be be getting the 2213 but it this big enough for a 55 gallon tank? i know the information states that it is suitable for <66 gallons but I just wanted to check with people who have experience. Thanks
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My paroon shark is my best friend... In fact I was thinking on having him over for dinner. |
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#9 |
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Aquarium Advice FINatic
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Are you planning to add CO2 to your tank? If so you will want to go with a canister filter to limit surface agitation/CO2 loss.
If you are not adding CO2, the aquaclear line comes highly recommended. I generally try to get filters rated for roughly twice my tank size. |
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#10 |
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Aquarium Advice Freak
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aquaclear 30 and 50 on my 55 gallon, both run a sponge and a bio max bag...soon both will be running dual sponge and bio bag...work great
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