Urgent water testing question!!!!!!!

[4ewe]

I am going to a pet stor tomorow to get my water tested! What do I need to make sure they test for and how much water do I need?? What should I take the water in????

 

[krap101]

Generally pet stores use strip tests, which are inherently inaccurate. You can take it in a baggy if you want, or a tupperware or something waterproof

Test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and I think that's all the important ones.

 

[dkpate]

Take it in something clean, and make sure they test for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.

 

[Zagz]

Ask them if they use liquid or test strips for results. As mentioned the test strips are notoriously inaccurate.

 

[4ewe]

like ph gh kh and the A one and the N ones. Is that all I have a test thing for the A one and the N ones and they are at 0 but that's all I no! I have well water and live in the country. I am and have been trying to raise anglefish and on a dif forum they asked for this stuff and I had no idea!!

 

[krap101]

I'm assuming the A one is ammonia, and the N ones are nitrite and nitrate. If your tank was cycled, the nitrAtes should be probably around 20. If you add angels now, I'm somewhat certain they would die, because from what I've heard, angelfish are not the most hardy fish in the world.

Here's what cycling does. Fish poops>bacteria converts poop (ammonia) into nitrItes>Another bacteria converts nitrItes into nitrAtes>plants/water changes remove nitrAtes. To get your bacterial culture going, you need to add ammonia (ace hardware, true value and meijers are the confirmed places; it's called janitorial strength ammonia, clear ammonia, pure ammonia, and if you shake it, there should be little to no bubbles, kind of like water). The cycling process can take up to 6 weeks, but it will be much quicker if you find a tank that has already been cycled and borrow a decoration, some gravel, or the filter pad, and this can speed your cycle up by up to 3-4 weeks. pH is the amount of hyroxides in the water, kH is calcium carbonates, and gH are other minerals.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

 

[Crepe]

I would invest in your own test kit. For 25 bucks at walmart, and each bottle giving about 150 tests you'd be guaranteeing accuracy, saving on gas and time and also be able to take emergency readings if something seems awry. otherwise just bring a cup with a lid with you and maybe 4oz of water. Enough to submerge the dip stick.

The API master kit has hi-ph, reg ph, ammo, NO2, No3. Planted tank users also add Kh, Gh, and phosphate to their collection of chemicals with a few even dropping the big $$$ on lamotte potassium and iron tests. But I digress.

 

[Mark Hewitt]

Ditto for buying your own test kit! It's too much hassle going to the store.
The three main things they should test for are nitrates, nitrites and ammonia, and these are the things you should test for too.

 

[4ewe]

Ya I have started to slowly get my testing kit. I have one for ammonia nh3 nh4 I just have never found out what my ph is and the kh since I am trying to breed that's important and I have well water so... I just need an about number for now.

 

[4ewe]

Ok so I got the water tested today and they did the ammonia test and the ph test the ammonia was 0ppm and the ph was over 7.6 ( the color was to dark that the color card did not go dark enough!!!) so I got the ph test kit and some ph lower.

 

[krap101]

I'd advise against chemicals to change pH. A better alternative would be to put some peat or driftwood to slowly change the pH. Generally its better to adapt the angels to your water (I see no other reference to angels, so did I screw up, or did a post get edited)? I think angels still might breed in higher pH water, if that's what you're going for?

 

[Crepe]

I use neutral regulator. It's something you can't overdose on (except in the way of phosphates) but that's pretty irrelevant in a HEAVILY planted tank. Neutral down precips all the minerals in the water instead of adding negative ions like most pH downs do. It puts it at 7.0 for you to tinker with all you want.

 

[krap101]

wouldn't that affect the buffers though?

 

[Crepe]

It does but when you does fertilizers it doesn't make a difference. And I only use a half dose whenever I do it.

 

[DragonFish71]

Also, if they do the liquid test for pH, DO NOT let them use their finger to cover the end of the test tube. Skin will give a pH reading so they will have a false result.

 

[Mark Hewitt]

Ok so I got the water tested today and they did the ammonia test and the ph test the ammonia was 0ppm and the ph was over 7.6 ( the color was to dark that the color card did not go dark enough!!!) so I got the ph test kit and some ph lower.

Not a good idea! Get a high range pH test kit. It's possibly your pH is only slightly over 7.6. Mine was 7.8 for example, entirely normal for my local water.

It's often said that the most important thing for fish is that parameters are stable, including pH. Most fish will adapt fine to a higher pH level, and long as it is constant, if you try to modify the pH (like we did and I'm sure many people did at the start) you risk having a fluctuating pH level which is far more damaging to the fish unless you know what you are doing, and by that I mean you've been doing it for a living for 10 years+!

Better to adapt your stocking to fish that suit your local water's pH level, rather than try to change your pH.