Water Change Frequency / Ammonia Levels in New Tank - INPUT REQUESTED

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Twoapennything

Aquarium Advice Freak
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Jan 18, 2010
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Denver, Colorado
Hi everyone :) I have a new 40 gallon freshwater tank, Marineland brand, with a Biowheel filter, a Theo heater, a bubble wand, and plastic/resin decor and white gravel. My intention was to do a fishless cycle using the add ammonia method. Unfortunately, I had to move my fish to the tank after only one week of fishless cycling due to the ammonia level in their 10 gallon tank being 4+, and my being unsuccessful in getting the ammonia to clear.

I've been monitoring the tank very carefully. For the past week, the ammonia level has been 0.00, 0.25, and then 0.50 x last 3 water checks. Nitrites and Nitrates are 0.00. High pH has been between 7.4 (today) and 7.8.

Should I do a partial water change to combat the 0.50 ammonia level? The tank water is sliiiiiiiiiightly cloudy (white), and the cloudiness does come and go. I know the tank is building up beneficial bacteria and that that can cause the white haziness. Here are my current products that I'm using in the tank:

- Nutrifin CYCLE - biological aquarium supplement

- Kordon AmQuel+Plus - removes ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, chlorine and chlormines

- Seachem PRIME - same as AmQuel+Plus / also provides slime coat

- API StressZyme+ - biological filtration booster w/ live bacteria

- Top Fin Tap Water Dechlorinator - removes chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals

- Nutrafin CLEAR FAST - particulate water cleaner

- Kordon NovAqua+Plus - Water conditioner with echinachea, vitamins, and anti-virus protection; detoxifies tap water and breaks down chloramines

Now I'm noticing that a lot of these products do the same thing, and I don't want to overload my tank with the same chemicals, just from different bottles, if that makes sense. What products do you feel are essential for the freshwater tank? Please share!

Based on the 0.50 ammonia reading, should I do a partial water change at this point? The tank is three weeks old now. Thanks in advance for any replies. Feel free to PM me if you prefer or have questions.
 
IMO, i would throw away everything except the prime, and do 50% pwc's as needed to keep the ammonia as low as possible. All that other stuff added together has the potential to foul up your water and cause issues down the road. I feel that letting nature take its course is better when it comes to cycling, instead of using products that *sometimes* work. If anything, see if you can get some filter media, substrate, or decor from an established tank to seed yours and speed up the cycle naturally. JMO
 
IMO, i would throw away everything except the prime, and do 50% pwc's as needed to keep the ammonia as low as possible.

I agree with you that natural is the better way to go. I'd become concerned about how many chemical were involved, and began to wonder if they were helping at all.

How can I do a 50% pwc with a 40 gallon tank without shocking the fish with a temperature change? Would a 25% pwc be effective? Or is that not enough?
 
I'm with rookie. Use just the prime and do as close to 50% PWC's as you can. Just temp match the water. If you have to fill buckets and get the temp right, do it that way. You need to do bigger water changes or the ammonia will build up and your fish will pay the price.
 
i would do a 50% water change i use hot and cold mix . i will mix mine a little warm
 
You need to do bigger water changes or the ammonia will build up and your fish will pay the price.

Thanks for clarifying that - it makes a lot of sense. I'll do the water change ASAP. Should I be doing a water change weekly, until the tank stops freaking out?
 
As long as your ammonia is .5, I would do around 50% pwc's every day.

I just finished the first 50% pwc and will monitor the ammonia levels carefully.

If the ammonia level were to be .25, would I do a 25% pwc, and so on? Or is it always best to do a 50% pwc, no matter the ammonia level?

If the ammonia level is 0.00 tonight and tomorrow, do I still need to do pwc/s every day?

Thanks for your help!
 
Do whatever water changing is necessary to keep ammonia (and nitrite) under .5ppm. Closer to 0 is better.

All you need is ONE dechlorinator (Prime OR NovAqua OR AmQuel OR the Top Fin)-- I use NovAqua+ myself and keep AmQuel+ around in case of a tank crash (since it can be dosed more frequently to neutralize ammonia-- no substitute for water changes, though). No need to throw it all away (unless it expires), since you may be needing rather a lot with regular 50% changes.
 
Agree with bluerose. Your products are all good ones, but you just have doubled-up on many of them and using less is better.

With monitoring your tank's ammonia level, test every day (morning and evening). If your ammonia is between 0ppm and 0.25ppm, you don't need to do a water change. If it is getting close to 0.5ppm, do a PWC to get it back to between 0-0.25ppm.

Basically you want to keep your amm at levels that feed/produce bacteria but aren't toxic to your fish. After a week, start watching the nitrITE. Same rules apply. 0-0.25ppm are the readings you want to aim for and nitrITE at 0.5ppm is bad, so pwc....

hope that helps.
 
Do whatever water changing is necessary to keep ammonia (and nitrite) under .5ppm. Closer to 0 is better.

Will do. I did the 50% pwc this morning and my goldfish is definitely happier. I'm might monitor the ammonia/nitrite levels daily, though, until the tank cycles to mostly nitrates. That would be instead of testing the water every other day, like the kit recommends.

No need to throw it all away (unless it expires), since you may be needing rather a lot with regular 50% changes.

Thanks for that tip. I will keep my AmQuel for emergencies. Fortunately, most of my products are almost gone anyway. I decided to keep the CYCLE as well.
 
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