Water Changes ?

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Except that your not taking into consideration the prime? Unless you are. Have you had fish die while using prime and ammonia of .5ppm? I never have.

Yes, I have, though those same fish were exposed to < 0.5 ppm ammonia for days beforehand, while I was out of town. So that may have factored into their demise.

Anyway, Prime is not a solution to ammonia spikes. It's a 48-hour (if that) temporary fix. Generally speaking, if you have ANY measurable ammonia in a stocked tank, you should add Prime and then, most importantly, do water changes until the ammonia level is < 0.25 ppm. You may have more leeway with very hardy species such as goldfish and Zebra Danios, but there are numerous species that are very sensitive to low levels of ammonia (Rams, Discus, Cardinals, etc.).
 
RIDDING MY TANK OF AMMONIA !!! THIS IS DRIVING ME CRAZY !!!!!
So many differing opinions & everyone thinks they have the right one.
Am I the only one who doesn't think they have all the answers ?
Sorry, guys, just frustrated. :(
Hope you understand.
I know my goal is 0 ammonia.
The differing opinions are HOW. :(
 
RIDDING MY TANK OF AMMONIA !!! THIS IS DRIVING ME CRAZY !!!!!
So many differing opinions & everyone thinks they have the right one. Am I the only one who doesn't think they have all the answers ?
Sorry, guys, just frustrated.
Hope you understand.
I know my goal is 0 ammonia.
The differing opinions are how. :(


The common task that everyone can agree with is doing water changes. How much and how often depends on your readings.


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The common task that everyone can agree with is doing water changes. How much and how often depends on your readings.


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Thank you. Bottom line that's been said a million different ways now.


Caleb
 
As many as you feel like doing. There is no rule, it will eventually take care of itself. Mathematically, doing many small ones often is the same as doing a few big ones once in a while. I don't know how sensitive your fish are. I have done 10% and had neons die as well as doing 90% and had no problem with my cichlids. I think that I would pick a % that was very easy to do and do then so that the amount of ammonia was under 1ppm. Just to help things go faster. Don't over think it :) It's a living thing not a machine. Specific numbers are not as important as they seem. Just ranges. You are already in the right neighborhood. Keep it under 2ppm ammonia or nitrite and try not to worry. The lower you go the faster it cycles but I can't say exactly how fast because it is a living thing (bacteria) that will determine this and there are many factors.



This is only true if your ammonia or nitrite levels are over 5 ppm or so. And even then, that claim is somewhat controversial.

I've never done a fish-in cycle but, as has been stated earlier, you need to test your water parameters daily. If you see *any* ammonia or nitrite, do a 50% WC and add a double dose (at least) of a binding agent such as Prime.



From post #8 it appears the message is: For a fish-in cycle, change enough water to keep the ammonia level down. Below 1 ppm. How much and how often depends on your test results. And it would not hurt to test your source water (assuming tap) as well to see if any is coming from there.
With 2 ppm ammonia doing a pwc every other day is stressful for the fish. I would do at least a 50% now and continue daily as needed.


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50% change is nothing and many users including myself do that weekly on most of my tanks.


Caleb



In your position i'd do exactly as the comments have said.

Test your water, if it reads above 1ppm ammonia then do a 50% water change to bring it back down. Don't let it go above 1ppm and your fish should be okay.


Caleb



Ammonia poisoning does not necessarily show up right away, but consistent readings of (1-2ppm and higher) certainly does long term gill damage and/or death. If I were you I'd continue doing at least 50% wc's daily until I could purchase a liquid testing kit. You need to be testing nitrites as well, they appear during cycling and are deadly. Good luck! Your hard work will pay off!



The common task that everyone can agree with is doing water changes. How much and how often depends on your readings.


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In response to your pm, it has been mentioned multiple times just in different ways. At the end of the day, the only sure fire way to get rid off ammonia is by water changes. Prime only detoxifies for so long.

50% was mentioned on multiple accounts as s good percentage to work with.


Caleb
 
You're tank will cycle, eventually.. unfortunately there is no sure estimation to the actual duration of the process. Have to agree with the crowd here.. keep changing and testing.. ammonia hits .5-1 ppm do a 50% wc.. fish love fresh water.. not doing them any injustice.. patience and you'll get there. Lucky you for such a great crowd here:) awesome work peeps!

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PH

You're tank will cycle, eventually.. unfortunately there is no sure estimation to the actual duration of the process. Have to agree with the crowd here.. keep changing and testing.. ammonia hits .5-1 ppm do a 50% wc.. fish love fresh water.. not doing them any injustice.. patience and you'll get there. Lucky you for such a great crowd here:) awesome work peeps!

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50% water changes are not working for me. Will have to do smaller ones. Large changes, for some reason, are playing havoc with my PH. Went from 6.2 to 8.8 after my 50%. This is as deadly as ammonia. I'll have to do small water changes, test & get the PH under control. My tap water is 6.8. Have no idea why I am getting these crazy readings ! :eek:
 
50% water changes are not working for me. Will have to do smaller ones. Large changes, for some reason, are playing havoc with my PH. Went from 6.2 to 8.8 after my 50%. This is as deadly as ammonia. I'll have to do small water changes, test & get the PH under control. My tap water is 6.8. Have no idea why I am getting these crazy readings ! :eek:
You mentioned in your pm that you were using your high range ph test reagent. You should only use the regular one. I think your readings will be closer in range.
And like I mentioned...the more seeded media you can get from a healthy, established tank the better! It will really speed things along.
 
50% water changes are not working for me. Will have to do smaller ones. Large changes, for some reason, are playing havoc with my PH. Went from 6.2 to 8.8 after my 50%. This is as deadly as ammonia. I'll have to do small water changes, test & get the PH under control. My tap water is 6.8. Have no idea why I am getting these crazy readings ! :eek:
Take a water sample from your tap and let it set for 24 hours(in a open topped bucket).
After 24 hours test pH.
If you have air stone or powerhead it will help for you to find your true pH of your water.
This is called outgassing and why many prep water ahead of time.
My guess is your source has high(form of speech) co2 and is outgassed with surface agitation and leaves your water with a higher ph after it is gone.
Can you test gH and KH?
 
You'll have to gas off your tap water, mine comes out at 9.7 and degasses to 7.2. I used spring water when I cycled my tanks. Wouldn't be surprsied if your tap registers some ammonia as well.

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Not Anymore

You mentioned in your pm that you were using your high range ph test reagent. You should only use the regular one. I think your readings will be closer in range.

I am not using the high range anymore. It was way off the chart with the regular one. That is why I checked it with the high range that 1 time.
 
I would get three or four 5-gallon buckets, fill them and add Prime at night, and then use them for WCs the next day.
 
Thanks. :) I did that. My PH still comes out @ 6.8.
The PH in my tank this morning was 6.0. Quite a drop from yesterday's 8.8. A couple of fish are showing the effects.
I didn't want to do another water change. I figured they didn't need more upset. I tested this morning & it was down to .5, from 1. I dosed with Prime & put in a few drops of Sera PH up. It recommended 5ml, but I don't want anymore sudden changes.
 
The more water changes you do, the more steady your pH will be (provided that you let the fresh water equilibrate with the air overnight before adding).

As I said earlier, ammonia and nitrite are worse for your fish than pH swings from water changes. 0.5 ppm ammonia is toxic.


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if you do no water changes at all t believe the ammonia will kill your fish before the cycle is completed

He is using prime. That protects the fish from Ammonia and Nitrite in these low levels. I am interested to know if the fish are already acclimated to acidic water from the pet store that might be near him.
 
The more water changes you do, the more steady your pH will be (provided that you let the fresh water equilibrate with the air overnight before adding).

As I said earlier, ammonia and nitrite are worse for your fish than pH swings from water changes. 0.5 ppm ammonia is toxic.


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He tested his tap water and it is acidic. The more he does water changes it is only going to stay acidic :) Need a different solution.
 
He is using prime. That protects the fish from Ammonia and Nitrite in these low levels. I am interested to know if the fish are already acclimated to acidic water from the pet store that might be near him.

Meh.... temporary at best if viable at all.. we've all been there and who really knows?? I trust in the chemistry but I wouldn't use it as a crutch walking down stairs.





He tested his tap water and it is acidic. The more he does water changes it is only going to stay acidic :) Need a different solution.

Solution has been laid out... off gassed water to provide the "most stable" parameters possible. Clean water at +/- .5ppm on the ph scale is far better than not changing water in fear of swinging ph... these fish will be better off with the fresh water vs.....

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