Water Quality Report

[Fishyfanatic]

As most of you know from my previous thread (55 gal....it's coming!), I am moving July 1st. I am very excited about it, but I don't know if my fish are going to be. I ordered a water quality report from the water company in the town that we are moving, and I just got it in the mail yesterday. I don't know what any of it means, so maybe someone could shed some light on it for me? We are currently using Tetra something for a dechlorinator (just ran out today, that's why I dont know the brand off-hand), but since the report shows Chloramine, I was going to order a 2 liter jug from Big Al's (amongts other things). From previous posts, I have read that Prime is great for chloramine's. Is that right? Anyways. Below is the report that I put into Excel. If you need anything else, let me know. I have the whole thing here but it's huge. The part that I am posting is under the Regulated Contaminants.

 

[beblondie]

All I use is anymore is PRIME Iused to use Amquel to neutralize Chloramine but Pime is cheaper to use -Anne

 

[TankGirl]

The water report looks fine to me - pretty typical. Most any dechlor you buy nowadays will neutralize chloramines as well, so you can shop around. I use Prime, too, but mainly because I like to add something to neutralize ammonia when I ship fish, and it is cheaper when purchased in large containers, plus you use much less Prime per PWC than other products.

 

[Fishyfanatic]

I didn't know if maybe something looked a little off. I got kind of concerned when there were Nitrates. But I take it that's typical? The reason why I picked Prime was mainly because of the price and because all you guys recommended it. A 2 liter jug for $30. That seems cheap compared to the stuff that we were using.

Also, will the chloramines mess with test results? Will I need to pre-treat the water before putting it in the tank? Right now we just python it into the tank and add dechlor as I'm doing it. I'm not sure how chloramine's work since this will be my first experience with it. I really don't like the idea of getting a 75 gal tub to do water changes with.

 

[Blucat]

I use Wardley tri start: chlorine, chloramine, ammonia

 

[TankGirl]

There are some areas that register 25ppm nitrate, so count yourself lucky. With aquarium test kits you will measure flat zero nitrate with this tap water, I'll bet you.

Chloramines will only mess with test results if you are testing for ammonia and you use a single-reagent test for it. Use the kit with two reagents and you will not get inaccurate results.

2 liters for $30 is a good deal, considering you use one tiny capful for 50 gallons of NEW water added.

I have chloramines in my tap and I use my Python, and add the Prime as I am filling. I have even added it at the end when I almost forgot and nobody seemed to mind when it is not a major water change. The fish seem to like the new water and swim through the flow of tap water coming into the tank as I am filling.

I don't think I would have as many tanks as I do if I did not use my Python instead of buckets and stored water in tubs (not to mention that my back would be broken .... :? )

 

[Fishyfanatic]

HAHA. I know what you mean TG. Could you imagine dragging around 63 gal of water each week. That would be 13 trips with a 5 gal bucket. NO WAY!

I am using the AP Master Test kit. It has 2 reagents. There are a couple fish stores in Marion (Where we are moving) but I've never asked them what they do to the tanks as far as testing and dechlorinator.

Also, the pH out of the tap is 8 .0 Will driftwood be enough to lower the pH in the tank to around 6.0? I am wanting German Blue Rams, but I want the tank to be ideal for them. I know they are touchy fish. Or am I out of luck and have to abandon my dream of owning them.

 

[RoK]

I highly doubt driftwood would lower it anywhere near that much. A change of 2.0 in pH is quite large, I would only expect it to lower it in the 0-.4 range (depends on the amount of water and size of driftwood). You would need lots and lots of driftwood to lower pH significantly IME.

 

[greenmaji]

FF.. I cant belive your asking a PH question.. stability of PH is all you need..
I understand though. I wish I could make my water perfect for all the fish I keep but its almost impossible.. and driftwood isnt going to lower your PH a measurable amount at all most likely.. do you know what the KH is of the water? If your going to have plants and pressurized CO2 with a ph controller then keeping the ph at a certain level is definitely possible..

 

[Fishyfanatic]

I know that a stable pH is better than a perfect pH, but I'm not sure how sensitive Rams are. I know they are sensitive to water quality, but what about the pH? I don't know the hardness. I got the pH info from the lfs in Marion. We should be on the same city water source. They don't keep Rams in their tanks, so I'm not sure how they would fare in the pH. I will be having plants, but not CO2 quite yet. That won't come along for quite some time.

 

[TankGirl]

Tank raised rams these days are more tolerant of higher pH, but 8.0 is pushing it for them, unless you get them from someone local to you who breeds them in the same water you have.

Agreed - driftwood will not add enough acid to drop your pH that much, especially if your alkalinity is high, which we can assume it is.

I would not even fool with pressurized CO2 and all of that (unless you want to) but would use RO water mixed with the tap water to bring down the pH. That seems to me the most sensible way.

Otherwise, Africans would be in total heaven in your water! 8)

 

[Fishyfanatic]

We have Africans right now that we raised the pH from tap 7.0 to 7.8 with crushed coral. They are going to love the higher 8. 0 pH from the tap without the added cc. At the place we are now, the water would be just about perfect for the Rams. So now we are moving to a new city which has perfect water for the Africans, but not for the Rams. Isn't that just my luck?

I wanted to do a nice community tank since we have enough Africans. I'm trying to venture off into community fish. I have a molly in a 10 gal tank which I know if really bad, but he is going to be moved to the 29 gal once the Parrots are moved to the 150. Which we plan to do when we move. I just can't bare to give him back to the lfs. He is a sailfin that is orange/gray/black/white and has blue shimmers on his back tail. Such a beautiful fish.

Like you said TG, I don't want to get into the CO2. Maybe later on down the line I will, but not right now. Lots of stuff to buy for the new place. I'm trying to update my college furnature a little bit since we are going from a college style loft to a duplex that isn't in a college town.

No more bean bag chairs and DIY entertainment stands. You know you are getting older when for Christmas you stop asking for cd's and clothes and start asking for a vacuum and a good pot/pan set. HAHA.