Water testing

[extremenewb]

I was thinking about getting some water testers for my aquarium. At the moment, I have an ammonia test to try to indicate the completion of the first phase of cycling. However, I know I should get some more, so I was wondering which ones are more important.

After reading posts and researching, I seem to gather ammonia, nitrite and pH is most important. Nitrate isn't really THAT important if you're doing regular water changes. However, what about "general hardness " and "carbonate hardness"? I seem to sort of understand what it is, though if some1 could give a more simple explanation it would be great

[Vitaliy]

Ammonia
Testing for ammonia is a must. Ammonia will be elevated during the startup cycle in a new tank. However, ammonia can also be elevated in mature tanks if the water is not changed regularly, filters are not kept clean, if the tank is overstocked, or if medication is used that disrupts the biological cycle. In an established tank, an ammonia test should be performed and recorded in a log once a month. Anytime you have sick fish, or a fish death, you should immediately test for ammonia. Any detectable amount of ammonia should be addressed swiftly, as it is extremely toxic to fish.

pH
Aside from new tank syndrome, I've found that pH is the most frequent cause of fish stress, and even fish loss. Unfortunately, it is usually the most overlooked parameter. Fish cannot tolerate sudden changes in pH. Even a change of .2 can result in stress or even death if it occurs suddenly. It is wise to know the pH of your fish shop's water, as well as your own, so you can be acclimate new fish properly. pH can, and will, change with time. Fish and plant waste, water evaporation, water addition, and water hardness will all contribute to changes in the pH. As a rule of thumb, pH in an established tank should be tested once a month, and any time there is a fish death or illness.

Another factor of pH is the buffering capability of your water. If your water pH changes suddenly, or drifts regularly over time, you should check the [acronym:bf319d47d6="Carbonate Hardness"]KH[/acronym:bf319d47d6] (Carbonate Hardness) of the water. Consult your local fish shop for [acronym:bf319d47d6="Carbonate Hardness"]KH[/acronym:bf319d47d6] testing, and for buffering compounds to stabilize the pH level.

Nitrite
During the startup of a new tank, Nitrite levels will soar and can stress or even kill fish. However, even after an aquarium is initially "cycled", it is not unusual to go through mini-cycles from time to time. When you do your monthly testing, include nitrite testing as part of the routine. Any elevation of Nitrite levels is a red flag that indicates a problem brewing in the tank. If a fish is ill, or dies, it's wise to test for Nitrite to ensure it is not contributing to the problem. The only way to reduce elevated Nitrite levels quickly is via water changes.

Nitrate
Although Nitrates are not as toxic as Ammonia or Nitrites, they must be monitored to avoid stressing the fish. Nitrates can also be a source of algae problems. Nitrates will rise over time and can only be eliminated via water changes. Monthly tests are important - particularly when breeding fish, as young fish are more sensitive to Nitrates than adult fish. Test monthly and keep levels low to ensure a healthy tank.

Phosphate
Whenever anyone complains that they cannot win the battle against algae, phosphates immediately come to mind. Phosphates serve as a nutrient for algae, and elevated levels will certainly add to your algae woes. Although it's rarely discussed, a leading cause of increased phosphates is dry fish food - particularly overfeeding with lower quality foods that are high in phosphates. If algae is getting the better of you, test for phosphates. There are filtering materials available that remove phosphates. Consult your fish shop for help in testing for, and eliminating, phosphates.

Hope that helps..

[TomK2]

I used the internet to look up my city's water report. Then I used my test kit to compare - [acronym:c0f8c09754="General Hardness"]GH[/acronym:c0f8c09754], [acronym:c0f8c09754="Carbonate Hardness"]KH[/acronym:c0f8c09754] were the same as on the report, my [acronym:c0f8c09754="power head or Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions, depending on context"]PH[/acronym:c0f8c09754] kit registered 0.3 higher (7.8 instead of 7.5). So, I don't think I will be using my hardness tests that often, since I don't expect it to change much with regular maintenance and water changes. I am glad I know the range it is in, so I can pick fish that thrive with the water I have. Ammonia, Nitrite, and [acronym:c0f8c09754="power head or Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions, depending on context"]PH[/acronym:c0f8c09754] can change, so they are worth following. Nitrates will be useful but not necessary. If your maintenance, bioload and feeding are keeping nitrates low, you can be satisfied that your tank is running well. If you are not going to change how you stock, feed and water change your tank, then the nitrate level won't help you much. I would get one, but if you are watching the cost, make it one of your last ones.

[jsoong]

I got my [acronym:b57a7f383a="Carbonate Hardness"]KH[/acronym:b57a7f383a] & [acronym:b57a7f383a="General Hardness"]GH[/acronym:b57a7f383a] tests in a "master kit". The kit was on sale & costs less than the pH, [acronym:b57a7f383a="Ammonia"]NH3[/acronym:b57a7f383a], [acronym:b57a7f383a="Nitrite"]NO2[/acronym:b57a7f383a], [acronym:b57a7f383a="Nitrate"]NO3[/acronym:b57a7f383a] if brought seperately.

I don't find the [acronym:b57a7f383a="Carbonate Hardness"]KH[/acronym:b57a7f383a] & [acronym:b57a7f383a="General Hardness"]GH[/acronym:b57a7f383a] that useful, however. The values I got is the same as what the water co posted at their website. So unless you are planning to doctor your water by altering its hardness or if you are doing [acronym:b57a7f383a="Carbon dioxide"]CO2[/acronym:b57a7f383a] injection, you don't really need the [acronym:b57a7f383a="Carbonate Hardness"]KH[/acronym:b57a7f383a] or [acronym:b57a7f383a="General Hardness"]GH[/acronym:b57a7f383a] (esp. if you can just look up the number from your water co!)

And the SIMPLE explanation for [acronym:b57a7f383a="Carbonate Hardness"]KH[/acronym:b57a7f383a]/[acronym:b57a7f383a="General Hardness"]GH[/acronym:b57a7f383a] is:
[acronym:b57a7f383a="General Hardness"]GH[/acronym:b57a7f383a] - general hardness - amount of Calcium & Magnesium in your water.
[acronym:b57a7f383a="Carbonate Hardness"]KH[/acronym:b57a7f383a] - Carbonate hardness - amount of carbonate (or bicarbonate) in your water.

[Apocalypse_Gold]

Water quality fluctuates. My tap pH, [acronym:360ffdf880="General Hardness"]GH[/acronym:360ffdf880] and [acronym:360ffdf880="Carbonate Hardness"]KH[/acronym:360ffdf880] yo-yo as our local water supply is mixed with the municipal water supply and (gasp!) well water. A few weeks ago the [acronym:360ffdf880="General Hardness"]GH[/acronym:360ffdf880] was 26 (I checked it twice) and yesterday it was around 12. A high [acronym:360ffdf880="Carbonate Hardness"]KH[/acronym:360ffdf880] generally give your tank a higher pH and buffers the pH as well making it very hard to change the pH. Before using [acronym:360ffdf880="Reverse osmosis"]ro[/acronym:360ffdf880] water my [acronym:360ffdf880="power head or Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions, depending on context"]ph[/acronym:360ffdf880] was around 8.2 and I could not get it down. Now it is 7.5. Remember that [acronym:360ffdf880="General Hardness"]GH[/acronym:360ffdf880] and [acronym:360ffdf880="Carbonate Hardness"]KH[/acronym:360ffdf880] build over time as water evaporates, and [acronym:360ffdf880="Partial water change"]pwc[/acronym:360ffdf880] only help some. Plants will help keep your nitrates down.

[extremenewb]

thx for all the replies. Been most helpful. I understand it all now

I think I might as well just buy the Hagen "mini master" test kit. It's got pH Low Range- pH High Range- Ammonia- Carbonate Hardness- General Hardness- Nitrite. I'll buy nitrate if I feel like spending some more money, but atm I've spent a fair bit so I think I might hold off on that atm and focus on regular [acronym:f8919e8925="Partial water change"]PWC[/acronym:f8919e8925] to keep that minimal.

[extremenewb]

just an add-on Qn if some1 could answer this

I'm currently cycling (fishless) my tank with fish food. I'd say I'm around 2 weeks into it (but I changed filters halfway thru - ie kept both filters, but the air pump is powering the new filter). A few days ago, I read my [acronym:4d59c78a63="Ammonia"]NH3[/acronym:4d59c78a63] was off charts (ie little over 6.1). I did a [acronym:4d59c78a63="Partial water change"]PWC[/acronym:4d59c78a63] to return it to much lower levels (about 1.2 I'd say). However, I just checked it today, and again it is off the charts (bit over 6.1 again). Should I do a [acronym:4d59c78a63="Partial water change"]PWC[/acronym:4d59c78a63] and keep on doing it to keep the [acronym:4d59c78a63="Ammonia"]NH3[/acronym:4d59c78a63] reading @ readable levels, stop feeding it ammonia and leave it for a while for the [acronym:4d59c78a63="Ammonia"]NH3[/acronym:4d59c78a63] to drop (if it does), or anything else instead?
Thanks!