Treating Ich

[Calm13]

So, about 2 and a half weeks ago we went and bought 2 platinum lyretail mollies from one LFS and some inverts from another (2 nerites, 2 rabbit snails and 1 CPO).

We added them all to our 10G QT. The tank was cycled and we had just moved a swordtail into our main tank, so the new creatures were all that was in the QT.

Shortly after bringing them home, I saw a little molly fry swimming around, so I clearly brought home a pregnant fish from the LFS. At this point there are probably half a dozen little fry in the tank. Well this morning my wife tells me one of the mollies doesn't look too good and she sees spots on it's fins so apparently I also brought home some ich from one of the LFS. Problem is, this is happening JUST after we moved all the inverts to our main tank.

I have read that inverts can't get ich, but they can possibly transfer ich to fish if the parasite is in the tank water that they came from. I did a drip acclimation on them before transferring them to the main tank, but I'm concerned that I might have 2 infected tanks instead of just one.

I'm going to start treating the QT, raising the water temp and adding some salt, but with the inverts I'm not sure how to treat the main tank if I need to. I'm thinking taking some precautionary measures in there would be a good idea.

I know copper is out with inverts, but does anyone know how safe and/or effective API Super Ich Cure, Seachem Paraguard or Kordon Ich Attack are?

 

[BBradbury]

Hello Calm...

The "Ich" parasite lives dormant in most tanks. If there's a missed water change or two or a sudden temperature change, the fish can be infected. If the fish is rubbing against a decoration or similar thing in the tank, it's possibly infected. The white grainy things are the individual parasites trying to attach to the fish's skin. When the parasites are full, they drop off the fish and into the gravel. They'll reproduce and more parasites will develop.

The disease can be treated mostly with heat. The parasite doesn't tolerate warm water. You can raise the temperature of the water, but not too high. Aquarium plants don't like very warm water. 86 degrees is sufficient and maintain the heat for 10 days. Add a filter that hangs on the back of the tank. This will mix more oxygen into the water.

Turn off the lights in the tank. The parasites locate a fish by swimming around looking for a fish to land on. If it's dark in the tank, they don't see well.

Keep the tank clean with large, frequent water changes. 50 percent every few days is helpful and do a good job of vacuuming the gravel without getting too close to the plants.

Add a little salt to the new water, a couple of teaspoons for every 5 gallons. Parasites don't tolerate salt very well and it boosts the fishes' immune system. Feed just a little every 2 to 3 days and include a little minced garlic.

Hope this helps.

B