The_Tominater needs help with starting a pond

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
See posts with no answers
Insulation works both ways. Think of a thermos. If you put hot water in, it stays hot longer, if you put cold water in, it stays cold longer. What insulation gives you is more consistant temperature.
 
Right, but consistancy of 100 degree temperature will kill fish within 2 hours, guaranteed. Ive had it happen before.
 
The whole idea is that insulation as well as plant cover (both on the surface, along
with taller broad leaf plants like Taro, etc) will KEEP it from getting that hot!!

Obviously once it has gotten hot, you then have to rely on other more non-traditional methods: adding cold water or ice, using chillers, and even some forms
of aeration if actual air temp permits.

But, insulation DOES WORK!! But, that also means on the surface where plants
act as a shade barrier-type insulation, OK!!??

Bernie
 
OK!!!!! no need to get so defensive. Geez. Lets just say that I wouldnt do it. I would rely on non-scientific facts and realize that it would be more reliable to use a cooling system. Thank God I live in PA.
 
Just my opinion, but the Earth itself is the greatest stable insulator of all, which is why I recommend in-gound ponds, in either hot or cold environs. The earth, even a foot or two down, never gets as hot or cold as the surface, day or night. Therefore, it helps to keep the water temps from fluctuating too rapidly.

Peace all!

Corvus.
 
i think i will build the pond here in arizona but i wont finish untill i move to florida in a couple months or i will get a big tank for the summer to put inside and put the fish outside in the winter
 
I really don't mean to be defensive or obstinate here, but:

Can someone please explain why 2-3 feet thickness of soil horizontally is different
from 2-3 feet vertical ???
If your freeze-line for your particular area is 20"..... then 20" applies in all directions where "Mother Nature's" soil is...... Correct or ??? :?

A built-up area around a pond....call it a wall or whatever ...that is over 2-3 feet
thick will serve the same purpose as going 2-3 feet deep!!

The rather closed-view idea of "only going vertical" is precisely the antiquated
theory that I feel needs to be addressed! Sorry to be pig-headed here!

Bernie
 
I disagree. 3 feet underground will be cooler than under a 3 foot mound of dirt 3 feet wide. I base this on nothing more than surface area. With any mound, you have more surface area exposed to the heat than you would if you had a piece of level ground. Over time I think your entire mound would heat up.
 
It is not a closed view. When you have 2-3' of soil around the pond, ABOVE ground, it is a hell of alot more different than being in ground. In ground, you have not only 2-3' of soil around all sides. You have thousands of miles of soil around it. Anything ABOVE the ground will freeze in the winter time in colder climates. I have it happen even at the ponds at work that are 4-5 feet above ground, surrounded by 4 feet of soil and a dura-wall stone terrace/retaining wall.
 
OK... I'll let you think on this ....."the freeze line is the depth at which things will
freeze" ...any more soil would be totally unnecessary and irrelevent.

If the freeze line for your area is, say 3ft.....then
having enough (3ft) of soil around the pond would the the SAME as having it "in" the ground.

Anything in the air or at the surface will certainly freeze in most areas during
the winter.....Anything "protected" with enough soil PAST the FREEZE LINE will
NOT freeze..... that's the defintion of a "Freeze line"!!!!!

Now if you've had problems with some things freezing in the past.....
it was more than likely due to improper insulation or protection.

The same principle is applied to many things in root cellars where a particular
depth of soil (in any direction) is used to keep things at a consistent temperature
as was explained earlier in this thread.

Bernie
 
If the freeze line for your area is, say 3ft.....then
having enough (3ft) of soil around the pond would the the SAME as having it "in" the ground.
Click to expand...

Sorry, no disrespect , IMO. I'm far more in agreement with:
In ground, you have not only 2-3' of soil around all sides.You have thousands of miles of soil around it. Anything ABOVE the ground will freeze in the winter time in colder climates. I have it happen even at the ponds at work that are 4-5 feet above ground, surrounded by 4 feet of soil and a dura-wall stone terrace/retaining wall.
Click to expand...

And AFfan (The Man!) works at a pond place, I'm just an ametuer who has done a bit of studying, and who has 7 years ponding under his belt, albeit north of you, climate-wise.

Peace,

Corvus
 
Folks....its not an "either/or" situation. !!!

You can do BOTH, Either one or none! We all have our preferences.
Some due to ease of work, climate or $$$!!!

I, personally, do both.

Just trying to make you understand that "BOTH" methods "can" be used.

I'll leave this, "obviously" sore subject to some alone now.

Bernie

P.S. I've been working with all types of ponds and pond equipment for over 22 years........but, most of my "hands-on" experience is here in Tenn
where we don't go much below 15deg F (although we have hit zero a few times). Highs are close to 95-100deg F.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
New Member
Replies
1
Views
215
Andy Sager
Andy Sager
L
Not sure whats going on...
Replies
6
Views
282
Andy Sager
Andy Sager
B
Starting cycle
Replies
4
Views
801
Andy Sager
Andy Sager
bluepandas
Heater started melting...?
Replies
4
Views
216
bluepandas
bluepandas
T
Fish in cycle
Replies
1
Views
371
Andy Sager
Andy Sager

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom