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Old 04-22-2012, 08:30 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by Trusty_one
Limpids Idk neither its kinda bizarre
That would be worse. Lol. Tank revamp
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Old 04-22-2012, 08:42 PM   #92
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Yeah but from the way I understand it limpids only eat the flesh of certain types of corals I believe it to be lps corals
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Old 04-22-2012, 09:19 PM   #93
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Yeah but from the way I understand it limpids only eat the flesh of certain types of corals I believe it to be lps corals
True- but I think (not reading back here) that these are all sps.

Whatever it is- its got to be frustrating.

Are you getting your corals all from the same store???
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Old 04-22-2012, 09:29 PM   #94
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I just realized its limpets not limpids lol. Just googled it a bunch and they eat sps coral
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Old 04-22-2012, 10:00 PM   #95
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Ok. Have you seen any limpits?

"Limpets

Several different genus and many species make up the snail-like invertebrate family, commonly known as limpets. Limpets have an oval, laterally compressed shell that tapers to an off-centered blunt point. Limpets have a tiny hole at the crest of their shell where it becomes a point, which they use for waste and water exchange. Many of these species have a very large mantle that extends around and covers the shell. In fact, some limpets can be very beautiful with amazing colors, and make a welcome guest in an aquarium that does not contain SPS corals.

The most common variety encountered in a reef aquarium is the Keyhole Limpet. They are a common import with live rock, and are typically colored in a mottled brown, black and tan pattern, and do not have a mantle that cover their shell. The Keyhole Limpets are typically half an inch long, or smaller, and feed on unwanted filamentous algae, cyanobacteria, diatoms and even hydroids. Unfortunately, in the SPS aquarium, they will also feed on the tissue of SPS corals.

As with many of the snail species, it is best to physically remove the limpet if you are unsure of its species and diet. Some limpet species are herbivores and are beneficial to even a reef aquarium. But even the herbivores can become harmful if there is not enough food for them in the aquarium. Limpets will typically not reproduce to any significant number in the aquarium, and physical removal is usually a sufficient control for the SPS coral aquarist." - LA
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:52 AM   #96
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Ok first off thanx to all !! We're getting some where..

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Like I said my opinion was your Kelvin was a little low. I don't think that is you problem. Yeah you don't want 30000k I was just saying that was bright sunny day. You have to compensate for the closeness of the aquarium lighting, then in the ocean there is refraction so there isn't 30000k reaching any real world corals. That is y aquarium lighting isn't that bright. In my opinion your aquarium is either devoid of some nutrient or too much of another. Like others have said lighting shouldn't kill a coral in 2 days.
No I understood what you were saying and in combination with your response I think I'm ordering some more led's. Not to increase watts but to take some RB out and put in [3-5] 420nm Actinic violet LED and replacing the [2]reds with Bridgelux LED 3W Pink . Plus adding [2 ]10,000k's on the blues to get rid of the 20k look. I like the 14k or 10k look way better. And a sunrise/sunset setup would be great.

Or every things fine with my light--> 150g mixed reef w/LEDs - YouTube

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I've noticed you are mainly buying frags. Have these frags had time to heal before you bought them?

This is the last thing I can think of. Sorry
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True- but I think (not reading back here) that these are all sps. Mostly

Whatever it is- its got to be frustrating.

Are you getting your corals all from the same store???
Ok long list here but in short YES/NO/MAYBE They all are from many different tanks, states, LFS's and more.. lol Some fresh fragged, some been healed for awhile.. Some came from Mh, or T5's, or Led's ....





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Ok. Have you seen any limpits?

"Limpets
IDK what they are but will in 5mins....
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:57 AM   #97
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Ok. Have you seen any limpits?

"Limpets
I dont think so.. I think I would saw something like that if it was there.. But another thing off the list!
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Old 04-23-2012, 01:08 AM   #98
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In my research and stating its my opinion red leds have very little value for most coral but usually do promote algae growth. But, that seems to be contradictory in your tank also. Too, bright of lights can sunburn coral best to acclimate them to your lighting on dim and turn up slowly but, you stated the coral came from different types of lighting I would think one of these should have been close enough to your lighting to have the difference negligible. I am only asking this to rule out everything. You are acclimating your corals. Correct. If yes and I hope yes. What is your process.
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Old 04-23-2012, 02:17 AM   #99
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In my research and stating its my opinion red leds have very little value for most coral but usually do promote algae growth. But, that seems to be contradictory in your tank also. Too, bright of lights can sunburn coral best to acclimate them to your lighting on dim and turn up slowly but, you stated the coral came from different types of lighting I would think one of these should have been close enough to your lighting to have the difference negligible. I am only asking this to rule out everything. You are acclimating your corals. Correct. If yes and I hope yes. What is your process.
Non of those leds were red. Except the two I have on it now. And they have been taped off a little while now. I agree reds are minor if any. The point of the pink is to get that higher 400 wave and to give a little in 600 range, which has been proven to increase growth. 610 I think it was.

The voilet is to get the lower 400 wave length. I feel I am missing some key wave lengths that antics bulbs like T5's. My blue spike is short and high, so zoox that takes 452-455wave length should in theory flourish in my tank. If its a problem at all...

Acclimate: tried many methods but drip to sump at 1-2drops per sec for 1-4hrs depending on animal. 75% emptied when almost full. Repeat. To the tank, starts off on sea bed. High lighted animals to the center, lower lighting to the corners. Then if its a air senstive animal, risk the bag water and remove under water. Recently have been doing it in the dark too. Meaning sump light off and then only moon lights on for a few hrs after added.
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Old 04-23-2012, 08:08 AM   #100
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Ok. Well you can chalk some frags that didn't have time to heal off your list because if they are stressed and don't have time to heal there is a possibility they won't make it.
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