1 yr old tank still having problems? Am I missing something??

[Sniperhank]

That was a really great read even though I have seen how carbon use helps out a tank, in both fresh and saltwater tanks. I actually learned something.

 

[CaliO]

Well I have a test running to see if I can pin point the problem.
Note all tanks have been set up for months and one normally just sits empty[suppose to be QT] LOL ..

I have 3 of the same colony of zoa's. Split into 3 tanks... 2 Tanks contain the same water [10g clown & carpet tank.. {2} 65w PC Antics & 10,000k, HOB filter (particle filter and bio ceramic beads), DIY Protein Skimmer] & Main 54g DT (Page 1 / Post 1).. Then the [10g QT {2}T5's Antics and 10,000k, HOB filter (carbon)]

To see if it's water quality, Lighting Or what!!!

 

[ccCapt]

Lighting or filtration have nothing to do with the test readings (ca, alk, mag) you are getting.
I'm not sure what you are trying to accomplish with your "test" You have 3 tanks setup with 3 different types of filtration and 3 different types of lighting and different livestock in each. If you notice 1 tank responding better how will you know what caused the positive response?

 

[Rutrag]

@Fishy Aston: API kits are better than any strips and are a good entry kit for most. As you get more advanced, you'll want better kits. An API master kit retails for $30 and gets you (I think) 4 kits. A single Salifert pH kit is somewhere around $12. The other kits are more. Elos kits are more than that. I guess you could say API is good for very basic tests like pH, ammonia, and nitrite. Once you get beyond those, their reliability drops considerably.

 

[CaliO]

Lighting or filtration have nothing to do with the test readings (ca, alk, mag) you are getting.
I'm not sure what you are trying to accomplish with your "test" You have 3 tanks setup with 3 different types of filtration and 3 different types of lighting and different livestock in each. If you notice 1 tank responding better how will you know what caused the positive response?

I know sorry for the misunderstanding. I'm not "testing" parameter per say. More just different lighting and tank water quality... [1] 10g has algae bad. and the other 10g is algae free.

Reason for this is to see if my New DIY led's are JUNK!! That would p!ss me off!! Another $250 down the drain.. Or if the corals are just acclimating to the new led's. .

To add to the experiment I bought a Zoa colony that has been under MarineLand Led's for a month and doing great. Placed them in 54g DT under DIY led's And they have opened [not as much as store] both last night and this morning... More than others ever have.. Other Zoa's still closed...


I "think" my corals are growing and I'd say fast just most lack zooxanthellae ?!?!?

Reason I say that is my best example is my Branching Montipora Digitata frag.. Pics show best...

Brought Home:

Hour after added to tank:

3 days later:

And this isn't the only frag lost it's polyps or isn't extending them'

A Pink with green Birds nest has lost it's green but has grown 1/4" taller. [from base] [in a week] is that normal growth rate?

My Plating Montipora has doubled it's thickness and started to grow pass the frag plug. Also has two colors under Royal Blues. Purplish with blue swirls through it..


This could be all in my head but I don't think so...

 

[CaliO]

@Fishy Aston: API kits are better than any strips and are a good entry kit for most. As you get more advanced, you'll want better kits. An API master kit retails for $30 and gets you (I think) 4 kits. A single Salifert pH kit is somewhere around $12. The other kits are more. Elos kits are more than that. I guess you could say API is good for very basic tests like pH, ammonia, and nitrite. Once you get beyond those, their reliability drops considerably.

I made the mistake of buying the API saltwater kit and then had to buy the reef kit... And $35 each is what I paid.. MY Red Sea Mag. kit was $25

JFYI to anyone.

 

[CaliO]

Ok so I bought that Zoa from the LFS [one under leds for a month or more] And it had a few hitchhikers. A fuzz like fugus or sponge is what I can guess... And two aptasia.

Well in just 3days the aptasia has shunk and is now looking as if I treated it [dying] !!!?? But I didn't do anything, no dips, no hot water , nothing. It is just the two in my tank so I figured F__k it for now..

But I think what is effecting my corals is the same as the aptasia....

Any idea's....???

Plenty of ways to get rid of them but non on what would kill them without treatment.



Oh and LFS said maybe I have too much flow and thats why my coral polyps aren't extending.. I highly doubt because I can see particles float by at different speeds in the tank and I designed coral around this to insure proper lighting, flow ect......

 

[Jlsardina]

Maybe try different placement of corals. Did you buy this tank new or used?

 

[CaliO]

Maybe try different placement of corals. Did you buy this tank new or used?

Been there done that.. First tank 47g was bought brand new and had simular issues with softy corals. Thought it was my lighting. and this tank was not used with medcation. if thats what ur getting at.

 

[Jlsardina]

Been there done that.. First tank 47g was bought brand new and had simular issues with softy corals. Thought it was my lighting. and this tank was not used with medcation. if thats what ur getting at.

My only guess then is lighting. I'm not a fan of DIY lighting. See if you can borrow a PAR test and see what readings you get. I have PAR ratings of 400 24" down.

 

[CaliO]

What about the uv leds.. I have them on the blues , so there are on 12hrs and there is two without optics but... I think I'll tape them off for a day or two see if anything happens. Doubt the reds would do it... I'm "hoping" and almost postive it's not the diy lights. just because there is alot more positive reviews about them then against them.

 

[CaliO]

Well I have a test running to see if I can pin point the problem.
Note all tanks have been set up for months and one normally just sits empty[suppose to be QT] LOL ..

I have 3 of the same colony of zoa's. Split into 3 tanks... 2 Tanks contain the same water [10g clown & carpet tank.. {2} 65w PC Antics & 10,000k, HOB filter (particle filter and bio ceramic beads), DIY Protein Skimmer] & Main 54g DT (Page 1 / Post 1).. Then the [10g QT {2}T5's Antics and 10,000k, HOB filter (carbon)]

To see if it's water quality, Lighting Or what!!!

So far tests provides nothing yet.. Non have opened....

 

[CaliO]

My only guess then is lighting. I'm not a fan of DIY lighting. See if you can borrow a PAR test and see what readings you get. I have PAR ratings of 400 24" down.

Wish I could, no one has one that I know of. And whats lights do u have?

 

[Jlsardina]

Wish I could, no one has one that I know of. And whats lights do u have?

Ecoray60D.

 

[mr_X]

Are you adding anything to the tank, like calcium, or alk? Perhaps a coral vitamin additive?
How are you doing water changes exactly? How long do you mix the water before doing one?

 

[CaliO]

Ecoray60D.

nice but I would have needed two of those at twice what I paid.. And Visually my Led's seem way brighter at the lowest 15% then that fixture looks at 100%.

So I just maybe burning everything... If that s the case cool but [moderator edit] I need to cut back some leds then. Which means rebuild...

mr_X Are you adding anything to the tank, like calcium, or alk? Perhaps a coral vitamin additive?
How are you doing water changes exactly? How long do you mix the water before doing one?

No dosing of anything.. [rather not till absolutely needed] I use reef crystals And I mix my saltwater days in advanced if not a week with salinity stable for a least 36hrs. And heated to 78* degrees.

I have been trying to do 1gallon water change daily but honestly have slacked.... But once a week I stop return pump, let it back wash. Then switch hose to a bucket run pump till est. 4gals is in bucket.... Then refill with fresh water, turn it back on and kick all pumps[power heads] on to mix...

But recently I had to kick the WC amount up so last week I got out the siphon hose and drained 15g worth out of DT [pumps off] and just kicked the pumps back on and added new water to sump as needed till it was topped off again...

 

[CaliO]

Ok seeing how no one else has any suggestions...

I figured I'd post these pics..

This is a frag I bought. I was told it was a rehab frag.. Turned brown was suppose to be pink or green [couldn't] remember... I acclimated it [drip-2-3hrs] and put it at a low lighted area on the sand bed.. within two days it seems to have RTN [idk] but has a greenish hue to it... That same day I bought the chalice frag. [seems to be fine] Both came out of Mh/T5 tanks....

4/11/12-

4/13/12-

4/11/12-

4/13/12-

I am about to do a 10g WC and test parameters later tonight.

 

[Sniperhank]

The first frag appears to be an acro. It needs alot more light. Most def bleaching.

 

[CaliO]

The first frag appears to be an acro. It needs alot more light. Most def bleaching.

I understand it's a acropora but completely bleached in two days because of not enough light?

I already went through a few STN on acropora's when they were on the top of the tank.. [thats why I turned leds all the way down and have been ramping up 5% every 4-5 days. ] And was advised to start all new corals on the sand bed and work them up the tank over time...

 

[mr_X]

That acro looks about dead to me. That's just algae growing on it making it look green IMO. How about flow?