1 yr old tank still having problems? Am I missing something??

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Sniperhank said:
Sounds like overkill. It has to be either lighting or water quality isnt good enough. Id still put my money on lighting if i remember this thread correctly.

It isn't costing me anything. And my lights are 3w bridgelux leds.. My tank is only 27" radius 1/4 cylinder. With 16 blues and 20 whites.. Thats 108 watts. 2watts per gallon.. And its bleaching so I think my lights are fine.

You maybe right about water quality. But my nitrates have never been too high and is less than 5ppm a couple days ago. Test again today..

Never have had photphates, that I know of.. Cheap api test kit.. And never had algae, either... Hmm. Well diatoms if you count that... Coraline seems to be growing tho..?
 
I just can't believe that the tank has never had algae...that is almost like a sure thing to atleast do minor battle once. I had mine in my sand bed shortly after cycling. I still have some cyano in the sandbed up against the glass. Atm, I have yet to be successful keeping sps. I just got a green slimer that I hope does well. Only time will tell on that one after my elephant ear dies and clouds up my tank.

Now that I think of it, can you post a FTS with full bioload of your tank? Maybe that will get my brain turning some.
 
FTS?
Full Tank Stock? Or just fish and in verts? Post one! But i'll update when I get to a keyboard...
 
Livestock =
[2] Ocellaris Clownfish
[2] Fire fish/ Dart fish
[1] Steinitz Goby
[1] Snapping Shrimp "DEAD" Edited*
[1] Emerald Crab "MIA month+"
[1] Powder Blue Tang
[1] Cleaner Shrimp
[1] Sand Shifting Starfish "mia weeks"
[8] Narcissus Snails

Green Zoa Colony [20-25polyps]
Blue Zoa Colony [30-40 polyps]
Bam Bam Zoa [3 polyps]
Mystery Zoa [5 polyps]
Montipora Digitata
Green Birdsnest Acropora
Green Trumpet


And i'll a youtube video when get home. To better see the set up ect.
 
You may want to double check your nitrates. Usually when inverts start disappearing nitrates are a possible culprit. High nitrates would also affect corals. I'm not saying you are testing wrong- but perhaps you have a bad test? Try having someone else use their test kit to test
 
Jlsardina said:
You may want to double check your nitrates. Usually when inverts start disappearing nitrates are a possible culprit. High nitrates would also affect corals. I'm not saying you are testing wrong- but perhaps you have a bad test? Try having someone else use their test kit to test

Yes nitrates were 20+ when the emarld went mia...Kit has been compared with lfs's it is good. The emarld is Most likely dead. But the snapping shrimp is probly alive I see his work all the time but him and the goby hit it off right away and dont like showing themselves.
 
Sorry no video, was in the middle of making a walk through of my system when my phone died.... But I did test everything I could and am seeing a potential problem....

77* degrees / 35ppt = 1.0268 salinity
Ammonia = <0.25ppm / Nitrites = 0ppm / Nitrates = <5ppm / Phosphates = 0<.25ppm
Calcium = 400ppm / Alk = 8dKH / Magnesium = 1680ppm

I have been using reef crystals for 4months now and been testing Magnesium for over a month. This is a list of magnesium and water changes only... I was doing WC's to get nitrates down.. And bring calcium up..

3/3/12 - Mag = 1160
3/20/12 - 3g WC
3/22/12 - 5g WC
3/24/12 - Mag = 1360
3/24/12 - 3g WC
3/28/12 - Mag = 1560
3/28/12 - 5g WC
3/30/12 - 15g WC
4/3/12 - Mag 1600
4/8/12 - 10g WC
4/13/12 - 8g WC
4/16/12 - 5g WC
4/19/12 - Mag = 1680


Funny cause these parameters are from 2 different buckets of reef crystals.. Bought at different times too,,,,

But could the reef crystals be adding too much mag. to my system and causeing problems with coral? And if so what uses up mag and way is mine so high?? Is it something I'm feeding?
 
I think your mag test is way wrong. The only way the mag levels can rise is by dosing it. For the levels to rise from 1160 to 1680 in a 50 gallon system, it would take aprox 48 oz of Kent Tech-M mag supplement or 43 oz of SeaChem Reef Advantage Magnesium supplement or 88 oz of ESV B-Ionic Magnesium. As you can see it takes a huge dose to raise mag that high.
Reef Crystals typically mixes to aprox 1440 mag.
 
Is it possible to be coming from my well and making it through my RO/DI system...? Will have LFS check as well. But I don't think the kit is inaccurate. It's ReaSea and brand new...
 
I doubt it would be from your well. I also have one and every year the neighbors spread the wonders of natural fertilizer to grow more corn for their cows, which leaks into my water. If that isn't an issue through my 2 stage RO/DI, then I'd have a hard time believing it would be coming from there.
 
Jlsardina said:
Test your r/o water.

+1 on that...
But a wells location is the only thing that will give you your water quality. No two wells will be the same, even is the same yard.

RO/DI a few weeks ago was up 30ppm. Started at 7ppm. But I have it coming in raw now. Meaning before water softener...

I have the replacement filters but am lazy and would hate to throw them away after only 4months.. But I use water.. I have a 6 stage 150gpd. with 3 pre filter, carbon and DI.
 
Fresh Mixed Reef Crystals = Magnesium 1660ppm
RO/DI = Magnesium 0 or as low as the kit will go Reg A + Reg B = end color.


So I think I'm calling it a bad batch of salt. Will email the maker and see what happens.. Better check calcium and alk too I guess.

Calcium = 400ppm
Alk. = 8dKH
 
Don't forget to consider that these test kits are hobby grade. They are not the same ones used by chemists who are discovering cures for diseases. Picture them sitting next to the model airplanes at the hobby store.
 
Don't forget to consider that these test kits are hobby grade. They are not the same ones used by chemists who are discovering cures for diseases. Picture them sitting next to the model airplanes at the hobby store.


true but still high magnesium "won't" make me have the problems I'm having..?... Or at least others have posted high levels like mine and report no ill effects on sps's..?
 
I am not sure whether you ever came to a conclusion on what the problem is. I know after extensive research on DIY lights 1 watt l.e.d.s r the way to go. With temperature being 30000k for sky. I would think 10000k is low but Idk. Your coral should survive more than a day. From the way I understand it you need carbon in the system not only because of filtration but because the coral needs it. My coral always perks up when I change my carbon. I am not sure if it's the carbon or better water but I wouldn't run without carbon. This post was so long I forgot how big your tank was I just have a hob filter and the filter cartridge has activated carbon between the floss layers. My new custom 118 build is using biomate carbon balls in the overflow spillout area in the refugium/sump.
 
1 watt LEDs are not strong enough for this tank. 30,000k? I'm assuming you mean 3,000k.
That's not going to work for this application.

Carbon has it's benefits, but I don't think it's a magic elixir. It will remove some impurities and odors from the water.
 
I agree with Mr x carbon is not your answer I've never seen corals die in a few days even when water quality is terrible you have something desperately wrong if they are dying that quickly .I would start back to basics test your RO do a massive water change with some quality salt Tropic Marin even reef crystals are fine. Stop dosing. And continue to check RO and do pwc for six months then try some easier to support corals most of the stuff you're corals need is in your salt. If u buy quality salt then there shouldn't be much to dose maybee calcium.
That's my opinion
 
I said that 30000 is above water sky if you were to look up outside on a clear day. Since we put our lights right above the water they do not need to b 30000 but I feel they should be stronger than a 10000k but that's just my opinion and also said that I feel u should use carbon not u have to Idk never researched anything just know my corals like fresh carbon so must be doing something idk. I have also been experimenting with some 20000k 1watt leds and they r brighter and penetrate the water way better than my t5 fixture so Idk what ur working with but mine will hit the 2 foot mark without even trying.
 
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