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Old 10-06-2013, 09:40 PM   #11
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Keep an eye on Craigslist.... Every once in a while you can catch a really good deal on rock from somebody tearing down their tank. Just remember, if your tank's already up & running, you'll want to cure it first.

If you're going to use eggcrate to stabilize your rock on, then I'd add an inch or two of sand. There are a couple different fineness grades.... I would recommend against the "sugar fine", but the coarser grade won't dust up unless you have a power head pointed right down into it. You'll get the initial cloudiness from adding it to the tank, but that usually settles out in a day or so.
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Old 10-06-2013, 09:50 PM   #12
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With that skimmer would the overflow pipes still be the same size?
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Old 10-06-2013, 10:03 PM   #13
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You could probably go with 3/4" returns & twin 1" drains for that skimmer.....

If you plan on drilling a 150 on your own, hop on youtube & BRS and watch a few of the vids. It's nerve-wracking as heck the first time you do it, but it's actually really easy. The only thing I recommend is, for thicker glass like a 150, use a drill guide to keep the bit straight..... for the thinner glass tanks, drilling by hand-holding the drill is OK, but it's really easy to get a little crooked with thicker glass, which can cause the bulkhead to sit cock-eyed & not seal properly.

Something like this:

Wolfcraft 4525404 Drill Guide Attachment for 1/4-Inch or 3/8-Inch Drills - Amazon.com
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Old 10-07-2013, 02:11 AM   #14
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Idk what this whole matching your turnover rate with your skimmer is (never heard of it) but i agree to go +1 on the skimmer. I just got a bubble magus curve 7 and i absolutely LOVE it!! Always run several drains on an overflow (some people have 3) that way if one clogs up or fails, youll have another to help slow the ensuing damage. Its hard to fathom spending several hundred dollars on a skimmer but this is def one area that money is VERY well spent. Youll see a direct reflection in performance compared to the money you spend.
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Old 10-07-2013, 09:36 PM   #15
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Sorry to sound like a idiot but what does plus one mean? Like find the skimmer that would work for my tank and get the next one up?
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Old 10-07-2013, 10:16 PM   #16
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Exactly..... since you've got a 150, you want a skimmer rated for roughly 175 to 200 gallons.
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Old 10-07-2013, 11:37 PM   #17
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The problem is that most skimmer manufacteures will give you a definitive gallon size that their skimmers are rated for, but in all actuality, theres about 3 sizes for each skimmer. For instance, if a skimmer is rated for 200g, that would be considered 200g with a light bioload, if you had a medium bioload, the skimmer may only be good for 150-180, if you have a heavy bioload, it may only handle 100-125g. So thats where people usually run into problems. As their fish mature and grow, the bioloa goes way up an the skimmer cant process it. This is where the +1 skimmer comes in handy
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Old 10-10-2013, 11:28 PM   #18
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Well today was the day, I start my adventure into saltwater, there is no turning it into fresh anymore

I utilized the group buy and picked up a 5 stage rodi 150 gpd water saver and a glass bit from brs and picked up 3 1 inch bulkheads and 200lbs of instant ocean salt

I will practice drilling on the many spare 10 gallon tanks I have laying around and when I am comfortable I am going to start plumbing it in,

My next thing I need to plan is my overflow box , I have researched a lot and wonder how easy it is to attatch acrylic or plexiglass to glass I was also looking around and found someone who cut a piece of 4" PVC pipe lengthwise and used that. So I'm up to suggestions how did you guys get your overflows to stay? Superglue? Silicone?

I have also decided to go through the wall into another room to hide all of my equipment, can I come straight out of my bulkheads 8 inches then 90 down or do I have to 90 down right away?
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Old 10-11-2013, 01:26 AM   #19
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First off, congrats on the purchases and the beginning of your new adventure.

Next..... Do NOT practice your drilling on 10g tanks!!!!!!! The glass is tempered and will shatter!!! Many tanks have tempered bottoms and normal sides, but not 10g's.... they are all tempered panes.

For the overflows, you can use silicone to attach them...... Here's a video from BRS that covers both drilling the glass & attaching the overflow box. They also demonstrate the difference between the drill guide & hand drilling. For thicker glass, I mentioned earlier.... I highly recommend using a drill guide. Also, if you have someone who can help you by holding a garden hose to keep water flow directed across the drill bit while you work, the circle of plumbers putty is not necessary.
How To: Installing an internal aquarium overflow and drilling holes in glass aquariums - YouTube


You can come straight out of the tank, through the wall and down, but that may create a water dam restricting flow a bit. If you want to go through the wall straight out of the bulkhead, allowing you to flush your tank right up to the wall, I'd use a 45deg out of the bulkhead, angle the pipe down through the wall, and then another 45 once you're on the other side to take it down to the sump.
If you're going to do this, you need to know exactly where your tank is going to sit, and then check to see where the studs are in the wall...... it'd really suck if you happened to drill the tank only to find there's a stud right where you wanted to run the plumbing.
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Old 10-11-2013, 02:01 AM   #20
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OK.... here's why I'm kinda harping on the drill guide. I recently hand-drilled a tank with 3/8" thick glass, and happened to get a little crooked & didn't know it. I literally had about a millimeter or two of wiggle room for the stem of the bulkhead to fit straight through...... had I been any more off, the stem wouldn't have gone straight through the glass, which wouldn't have allowed the seal to sit flush against the inside face. This would've either allowed a leak at best, or could've cracked the glass when I tightened down the bulkhead........
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