75G Reef Tank Help

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alyxandria

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My boyfriend wants to start a 75G saltwater tank. It will be a reef tank eventually and we would like to drill it. We are either going to get a used 75G and do the plumbing this week or just buy a 75G new and do the plumbing next week. We will be doing this over the course of a couple pay checks.

We want to do softies, lps and zoanthids.

What do you guys suggest for an overflow gph and bulkhead size as well as pvc size?

What size sump should we be using? Half the total volume right? That's 37.5 so I'm thinking a 40G sump?

What kind of protein skimmer would be good for this size as well?

Also for lighting would two or three 120W or 165W dimmable a do? I also saw a 300W dimmable on eBay is that any good?

And the last question for now is what should we use for circulation pumps and what GPH total are we aiming for?

Thanks all :)
 
We will be purchasing this tank this evening for $150. Any suggestions on what I've posted would be awesome.

Circulation pumps: I saw someone had 2 x 1400 GPH pumps in a 75G. Does this mean she has 2800GPH throughout her tank or would it be 1400GPH flow?

Would I be better off with 2 x 1400GPH or 4 x 800GPH?
 
If you're planning on putting the refugium beneath the tank then you have to take into account your working space. Maybe a 30g long would fit but be sure to take some measurements. I went with a 29g as a refugium and its a pita to work out of.

As for the pumps, go for 10x to 40x the tank volume hourly. Multiple pumps usually make it easier to get rid of dead spots.

Go with a reef octopus skimmer

2 of the 165w lights will work. Just make sure they are dimmable.
 
Try to purchase the largest skimmer you can afford. Something rated for at least 1.5 to 2 times your total system volume is what I recommend. Pay attention to air draw- this is what makes a skimmer efficient. The more air it pulls, the better the skimmer. It's all about the pump. Something 700-1000lph would be ideal.

2 x 1400 would be 2800, plus the return pump.

2 of the 120 or 165 watt units would be plenty. Each one will cover around 2 square feet, and light a 75 gallon to the sand bed easily.
 
Awesome thanks guys. We cleaned up the tank last night and it looks pretty awesome. I think we are building the stand tonight or tomorrow night.

I picked out a 40 breeder because of its length for the sump/refugium and designed the stand so that it will fit underneath. The only thing is that a support beam (not sure if needed but want to be safe) will be in front of it so we will have to work around that.

As for pumps I think I will aim for 25-30x the flow and increase it if needed. So that's 1875 GPH - 2250 GPH. I'm gonna try and split it up between three circulation pumps. Two on one side, one on the other.

If I did one 1000GPH on one side and two 500GPH on the other would this work well do you think?

We will also go with 2x165W dimmable LED panels. I need to order one for my other tank as well :)

I need to do some research on which skimmers look good (definitely 1.5-2x) and I will follow up with you guys for opinions.

Thanks so much for following my crazy nonstop builds :)
 
Octopus as mentioned, bubble magus, aqua-maxx, vertex, seaside aquatics, JNS, ATB, ASM (the newer cones, not the old ones), Hydor performer are all good brands.

I don't think you are gonna be happy with 500 gph power heads in this tank. They are gonna seem weak.
 
Okay so we have come to the first part of the process and that's drilling the tank. I was thinking of just going with:

http://www.glass-holes.com/1500-gph-Overflow-Box-Complete-Kit-gh1500kit.htm

Is that enough? Will this work for my system? I know I said like 1800-2000 but I only saw the 1500 and 3000 GPH ones and figured the latter would be too much.

If anyone has suggestions on which overflow boxes to use please let me know :)
 
For power heads I'd consider the Jebao RW series. I just replaced all my korilia pumps with a single RW-8 in my 110XH tank. I think your 75 has the same footprint, just shorter. The RW-8 is not enough. But a RW-15 should be plenty and is only $10 more. Live and learn I guess.
The other option is 2 RW-8 together (they link wirelessly) which should be ok in your tank. I'll be buying a RW-15 once the wife forgets I just bought this one, and link them together.


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Ok I'm gonna take this a couple steps back and go back to the plumbing. I have a few questions.

Info: 75G tank, 40G sump

If I purchase the 1500 GPH overflow box kit here:

http://www.glass-holes.com/1500-gph-Overflow-Box-Complete-Kit-gh1500kit.htm

1) What thickness of PVC should I use? 1.5" right? That's what they're saying?

2) There are two drain lines, what is the point of this?? And they both go down to the same place in my sump?

2) I want to do my sump like this:

img_3156717_0_60eb060f0120581cd7f5a0d212591a79.jpg


(Not really a question but unsure if it will help with answering my next question)

3) What kind of pump should I get and what GPH do I want the pump to be?

4) The plumbing going up the return will have a ball check valve with unions. (And the return pump will have unions too) do I use the same size PVC I used on the drain line?

5) If I wanted to put my overflow box in the middle (there's no centre brace) of the tank and one return line on each side - can I split the one return into two halfway up the PVC?

Ps. I really appreciate answers and fairly quick replies would be great. I'm trying to figure all of this out and my boyfriend just wants to put in a canister which I think is a no-no. So as long as I figure it all out he's ok with the sump. But he is also impatient and wants to get it set up lol.
 
Ok I'm gonna take this a couple steps back and go back to the plumbing. I have a few questions.

Info: 75G tank, 40G sump

If I purchase the 1500 GPH overflow box kit here:

http://www.glass-holes.com/1500-gph-Overflow-Box-Complete-Kit-gh1500kit.htm

1) What thickness of PVC should I use? 1.5" right? That's what they're saying?

2) There are two drain lines, what is the point of this?? And they both go down to the same place in my sump?

2) I want to do my sump like this:

img_3156735_0_60eb060f0120581cd7f5a0d212591a79.jpg


(Not really a question but unsure if it will help with answering my next question)

3) What kind of pump should I get and what GPH do I want the pump to be?

4) The plumbing going up the return will have a ball check valve with unions. (And the return pump will have unions too) do I use the same size PVC I used on the drain line?

5) If I wanted to put my overflow box in the middle (there's no centre brace) of the tank and one return line on each side - can I split the one return into two halfway up the PVC?

Ps. I really appreciate answers and fairly quick replies would be great. I'm trying to figure all of this out and my boyfriend just wants to put in a canister which I think is a no-no. So as long as I figure it all out he's ok with the sump. But he is also impatient and wants to get it set up lol.


1. Yes. 1.5"
2. For combined flow rate. 1 drain would be bigger, so they use 2. DONT JOIN THE DRAIN LINES
3. I would consider something in the mag 9 or 12 range.
4. Doesn't have to be same size. 3/4 or 1" are common
5. Yes

Personally I think your overflow baffles (the 3 where the water goes over them) are too high. You have very little room for extra water when the return pump stops. Probable sump overflow situation. Also your slimmer will need a serious lift to get to the proper water level. My sump is barely 1/2 full in normal conditions.


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1. Yes. 1.5"
2. For combined flow rate. 1 drain would be bigger, so they use 2. DONT JOIN THE DRAIN LINES
3. I would consider something in the mag 9 or 12 range.
4. Doesn't have to be same size. 3/4 or 1" are common
5. Yes

Personally I think your overflow baffles (the 3 where the water goes over them) are too high. You have very little room for extra water when the return pump stops. Probable sump overflow situation. Also your slimmer will need a serious lift to get to the proper water level. My sump is barely 1/2 full in normal conditions.


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Thanks for the answers! Super helpful. That picture isn't mine (Google) it's just the general layout I wanted my baffles. Mine will not be that high. :)

One last question, do I need to worry about calculating GPH and how much I'm going to lose?

That's been the part keeping me from getting this done. (Never done this before) I'm worried that I may have too much flow and not enough power to bring it back and my sump will overflow or too little flow and too much power and my display will overflow? Will this work itself out?

Do I need to be super precise and calculate this to the dime (I don't even know how I'd do that lol) or is a "general idea" of how much GPH sufficient? And how do I even figure out my GPH loss?

Am I overthinking this? Lol
 
the location of the inlet holes on the overflow box will determine the tank level. It will vary very slightly depending on what your return rate is, but not much. As long as the return is NOT greater than the overflow can handle, you'll be ok.
 
Gph is pretty easy. Know what the gph of the overflow is. Then get a return pump rated higher than that. Then you put a ball valve on the return side of the pump to restrict the return flow to match.


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Personally I would not get a pump rated (after headloss) for more than the overflow. It just takes one forgetful water change or other pump maintenance and you forget to choke back the return enough. Then you sump is pumped out too fast and you run the risk of DT overflow or return pump burnout.


What is gained by having a bigger pump than your overflow can handle? If you have to run it restricted all the time, why not just buy the next sized down pump for less money?
 
Once restricted you should never have to make any changes. Not sure where that idea is from. But this is so it matches right and restriction in such a manner can even be healthy for the pump.


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Gph is pretty easy. Know what the gph of the overflow is. Then get a return pump rated higher than that. Then you put a ball valve on the return side of the pump to restrict the return flow to match.


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This makes my life so much easier. I get where ingy is coming from but I think I can handle keeping the valve adjusted. Thanks guys :)
 
Keep in mind, you cannot drill tempered glass as it will shatter.


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I'm 99% sure it's not tempered as I researched the tank and company so I think it'll be fine but thanks ;)
 
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