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Old 04-14-2005, 10:36 AM   #11
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nope. ceramic media is a hotbed for nitrates. Its basically the same reason people don't use wet/drys anymore. Your live rock will provide the biological needed.

I use a half (or sometimes much less) a load of carbon in my canister. It works so well that my skimmer all but stops working! I am slowly trying to move away from carbon all together, But I think I need another 20 lbs of Live Rock to do it successfully.

To do a canister right, you need to use less media and clean it much more often than you would a fresh water tank.

I would recommend at least taken a look at canisters. IMO they work very well in the saltwater aquarium.
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Hardware: 37 gallon SW tank and stand by Oceanic Systems, Magnum 350 Pro Canister Filter (half carbon), CPR Bak Pak 2R skimmer, Maxijet 1200 Powerhead, RenaCal 150 W heater, Compact fluorescent lights with moonlights. 40 lbs of liverock, 3" sand bed.

Software:2 Tank-Raised Ocellaris Clowns, 1 Purple Firefish, 1 Electric Orange hermit crab, 18 Blue Legged hermit crabs, 8 or so Nassarius snails, Xenia, Blue, green, and Green Striped Mushrooms.

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Old 04-14-2005, 10:59 AM   #12
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RocketSeason: You said the ceramic media is a hotbed for nitrate, are you saying this applies to all types of media? I have two types of media, a coarse media which are ceramic rings and the smoother ceramic pellets that is porous for bacteria colonization. I can see the coarse media being a hotbed for nitrate because its function is to trap large debris. But the biological media should have similar function to LR. So should I be removing the coarser media only?

If I start taking out the ceramic media from my canister, how do I know how much to take out.
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Old 04-14-2005, 11:21 AM   #13
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Ceramic media is sorta like a form of mechanical filtration. It traps detris and that is eventually broken down by bacteria, that bacteria that feeds on the gunk is good stuff, but the rotting food and debris is still trapped in there, making amonia and eventually nitrates.

Carbon removes alot of the impurities from that gunk. so its a better choice right away, however, it does have a "saturation point" and it will stop working. then you are just collecting more gunk in your system which is slowly being broken down by good Bacteria.

The "Ideal" way to do it is to let your LR do all of your biological filtration and let your skimmer remove the gunk floating around in the water. I make sure to clean the collection sleeve in my canister thoroughly. I think that collection sleeves are very important. they collect allot of the really big stuff that can gunk up your system fast. Theses should be cleaned often to remove the waste from your system.
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Hardware: 37 gallon SW tank and stand by Oceanic Systems, Magnum 350 Pro Canister Filter (half carbon), CPR Bak Pak 2R skimmer, Maxijet 1200 Powerhead, RenaCal 150 W heater, Compact fluorescent lights with moonlights. 40 lbs of liverock, 3" sand bed.

Software:2 Tank-Raised Ocellaris Clowns, 1 Purple Firefish, 1 Electric Orange hermit crab, 18 Blue Legged hermit crabs, 8 or so Nassarius snails, Xenia, Blue, green, and Green Striped Mushrooms.

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Old 04-14-2005, 08:43 PM   #14
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If liverock is the way the to go then I'm wondering if this claim by one of the people on ebay selling liverock is true, "Don't forget that to grow a strong purple coralline algae (purple, green and red rock growth) you must have the necessary lighting consisting of 4watts per gallon of water as a rule of thumb and necessary trace elements of Iodine, Strontium, Molybdenum and liquid Calcium! These are the big trick all the true reef and saltwater hobbyists growing extremely beautiful live rock are doing and understand! "
I'm not interested in growing huge corals, but whatever is on the liverock that does take off is fine by me. 360 watts of light seems like alot of light, i have a 90 gallon.
I also just emailed Tetra and found out that my Whisper 5 does 375 GPH. So the tank would be filtered four times in one hour. This combined with protein skimmer, 3 powerjets and liverock should be enough for now, right?
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Old 04-14-2005, 08:58 PM   #15
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I don't think you need a lot of lighting for good coralline growth. I have only 110W for a 45 gallon and I have coralline everywhere, on the glass, on the PH and LR.
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Old 04-14-2005, 10:20 PM   #16
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I have 15 watts on my 37 and my coraline is spreading. but I will be upgrading to over 250 W (to grow lots of healty sps) If you are thinking of corals one day. you will probibly need 300-500 watts of lighting. depending on what you want to grow. IMO coraline does ok under low lighting conditions, but from what I have seen, IF you want it to go hog wild, add lights.
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Software:2 Tank-Raised Ocellaris Clowns, 1 Purple Firefish, 1 Electric Orange hermit crab, 18 Blue Legged hermit crabs, 8 or so Nassarius snails, Xenia, Blue, green, and Green Striped Mushrooms.

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Old 04-15-2005, 03:38 PM   #17
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I can say from personal experience Damsel behavior is totally situational. I had five in my tank. The largest one of course dominant, and would randomly chase the other ones around. I removed the yellow one. Now the zebra is the only one that chases, and he chases the domino damsel.

Also note that damsels put off excessive waste. I have about 40lbs of LR, a huge plastic box/skimmer/biotank, a bio-wheel filter unit with a mesh filter and a carbon pouch and a UV filter for a tank 4 times the size. My water is extra clear.

Just make sure you have enough cleaning to compare to your feeding/quantity. The more you feed, the more waste you have to clean up. Feed once every two days. Replace filters monthly. Carbon pouch lasts 6-9 months.

I also just recently mounted a featherduster that seems to have taken off.. we'll see how that also affects my tanks filtration when it multiplies.
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Old 04-17-2005, 02:41 PM   #18
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I think wet dry systems properally used is one of the best ways to keep your tank clear. the only negative thing about wet/dry's is that they can produce nitrates. but if used right this can be avoided and there are many chemicals used out there to remove nitrates. also micro algea works too.


As far as damsels go, if you want a damsel tank then go for it. I think they are mean as ever, but if that is what you want, people should try to help you get to your goal and not knock it down.

If you want a damsel tank, makes sure that your tank is cycled well and put in all your damsels in at the same time. if you wait for weeks in between adding new they will kill the new ones. if you can not afford to add them at the same time sometimes this works, but not always, is completely change your tank around to ruin there teretories and sometimes they wont kill the new fish you add.

I wish you the best luck and if you have any more questions please ask.
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Old 04-17-2005, 03:02 PM   #19
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What chemical is available to remove nitrate?
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Old 04-17-2005, 03:10 PM   #20
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I wouldn't add chemicals to remove nitrate. Nitrates should be removed by both carbon and your Live rock.

If nitrates are very high, then do a few parital water changes over the next few days.
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Software:2 Tank-Raised Ocellaris Clowns, 1 Purple Firefish, 1 Electric Orange hermit crab, 18 Blue Legged hermit crabs, 8 or so Nassarius snails, Xenia, Blue, green, and Green Striped Mushrooms.

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