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Old 01-20-2007, 09:49 AM   #11
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Re: Adding Live Rock

Quote:
Originally Posted by loyalrogue
Overstocking means more fish waste, and also can have a serious impact on the health of your fish.
While it's possible to successfully run a slightly overstocked tank, it would require much better than normal water quality, and extra attention to avoid problems.
I do believe this is a big part of the problem. You`ll need frequent PWC`s and no new fish to try to put a dent in the algea problem. Even with your plan of attack as LR said if you dont get rid of the bioload problem then it will be back.
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Old 01-20-2007, 08:59 PM   #12
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Hi everyone, thanks for all the advice. I also found out that good water flow/movement is important in controling algae. How can this be done without changing the filter unit? I'm thinking about getting a protein skimmer. Will this help with water movement?
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Old 01-20-2007, 09:29 PM   #13
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I dont think it will help in water movement esp if you are like me and yours is in the sump. But one thing they are good about is getting rid of DOC`s that eventually become excessive nutrients that fuel nuisance algea.
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Old 01-20-2007, 09:44 PM   #14
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Quote:
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I also found out that good water flow/movement is important in controling algae. How can this be done without changing the filter unit?
Add additional powerheads.
Since cyano grows best in stagnant/low flow areas, you can point powerheads at the worst concentrations of cyano to discourage growth in that spot.
Of course that's no substitution for eliminating the initial cause of the cyano...

Quote:
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I'm thinking about getting a protein skimmer. Will this help with water movement?
Not really, but like melosu said, it will help remove dissolved organics that could be feeding the cyano.
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Old 01-21-2007, 01:11 PM   #15
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Ok well I got a powerhead. I don't know if anyone is familiar with this one but it is by Zoo Med Aquatic called PowerSweep (Automatic self-rotating powerhead wavemaker). I have a 29 gal tank so I bought the one that says for aquariums up to 30 gal and next to this is the number 214 which I am assuming is gph? Anyway, I have it on the highest setting and it doesn't seem like it is doing all that much. If I put my hand up to it, I can only feel its force up about two inches away. Any further than that and I can't feel anything. I was thinking about taking it back and getting one that is rated for a larger tank. I would rather have a device that I can regulate as opposed to a device that is set to the max and is not giving me what I need/want. Tell me what you think because I don't think that it is making much of a difference.
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Old 01-21-2007, 02:38 PM   #16
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That PH is probably model #PS-20 which pumps 160gph which adds about 5 to your total turnover rate. (gph divided by total tank volume)
A good turnover rate on an average SW reef tank to shoot for is between 25-30 when you add together all pumps, PH, filters, etc.

Personally I don't like the rotating powerheads (wavemakers) because the rotating part always seems to end up breaking on me, and sticking in a weird position long before the full life of the pump motor.
(I've got 4 of them and they're all stuck like that)
Less moving parts = less to go wrong in my book

Also IMHO, I would always go with a PH that's rated for bigger than the actual tank.
I figure over time all pumps gradually lose head pressure so it's better to start with an excess anyway.
You can always use a valve/nozzle to diffuse or decrease the output, but you really can't do anything to increase it. (unless you buy the type you can take apart and mod, but that's another topic.)

Also, if I remember correctly, (I don't have a box to check) the gph rate that's printed on the box is normally what the pump will do at surface level.
If I'm not mistaken, I've seen some PH that come with a chart on their literature or box that shows less gph the deeper underwater the PH is used.

Of course you don't want to get something so oversized that it turns your tank into a sandstorm, but the general concensus seems to be "bigger is better".
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Old 01-21-2007, 04:08 PM   #17
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Ok well I'm going to think about it. After this algae problem is cured I hope to buy some LR from my LFS. I think it is safe to say that the LR will be fully cured coming from a LFS. I have read a little about it and know that there should not be any black areas or white film. I know that it should not smell bad either but I have a few questions. 1. Should I worry about bristle worms or is this something that has already been eliminated at this point? 2. Is there a chance of getting any parasites in my tank from the LR? 3. When buying, should I buy only a little at a time or just buy it all at once, keeping in mind that my tank already has fish in it? 4. I also heard that it is important to elevate the LR keeping space between it and the bottom of the tank to insure adaquet flow around and under the LR. What are some effective ways of accomplishing this? You guys have been really helpful. The level of knowledge that is demonstrated on this site astounds me. I greatly appreciate your time and help.
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Old 01-22-2007, 11:59 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow Jobber
I think it is safe to say that the LR will be fully cured coming from a LFS.
This will be the LR that are in tanks with fish.
1. There will probably be bristleworms in the rocks. I have never had a problems with them causing and harm, they are also great for moving sand and eating the stuff the fish miss.
2. There is a small chance. If the fish look healthy and you haven't seen and sick fish, you should be ok.
3. I buy mine as I see pieces that I like. Adding cured LR to your tank shouldn't bother the fish.
4. I keep my LR settled down to the glass bottom, to avoid any chance of it toppling. Flow under the rock is not important, since it will give the beneficial bacteria a nice place to propogate.
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Old 01-22-2007, 06:01 PM   #19
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There will probably be bristleworms in the rocks. I have never had a problems with them causing and harm, they are also great for moving sand and eating the stuff the fish miss.
I read on a web site that the LR should be inspected for bristle worms before introducing it into the tank. It said to take tweezers and pull out any that you see sticking out of the pores in the rock. It said that they can become a real problem if they multiply. Any thoughts?
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Old 01-22-2007, 06:09 PM   #20
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I haven't had any problems. I don't think you will hear too many folks say they have problems with bristleworms, fireworms, are a different story. I consider them part of my clean up crew.
I guess when it comes down to it, it is a personal preference...JMHO.
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