Adding Live Rock

[Yellow Jobber]

I have had a 29 gal sw tank for 2 years and am wanting to add some LR. I currently have four fish: 3 perc clowns and a yellow tang. What would be the best way to add LR to this acquarium? I enentually want to add a corral beauty to the tank. Does anyone think that adding anouther fish would be excessive?

I also seem to be having an algae problem. I have read several articles and posts on this site and have concluded that I have Cyanobacteria (grean sheet like formations) on glass, rocks, and floor of tank. My plan of attack includes keeping the light off for about a week, and feeding only several times a week as opposed to every day. I also plan to keep up on water changes and to perform them more freequently. When I introduce the life rock however, I will need to supply adequet light, correct? Who is to say that this algae problem will not return? Will the live rock help in controlling the excess nutrients causing the algae problem?

 

[melosu58]

Read this article on LR

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/article_view.php?faq=2&fldAuto=6

I almost think that your tank is overstocked already. This is the reason for the algea problem. If you go to your LFS and get LR that is already cured then you can add to your tank now and it will start your biological filtration now. If it comes to you packed then you`ll need to cure it your self. Please read the article for that info. Your plan of attack sounds good and you will be OK for your LR as it will be OK without the light for that period of time and longer. I wish you the best and Welcome to AA

 

[mr.trooper]

the algea doesnt feed off of light so cutting down on your light will not affect it i would try a phosphate sponge or something to take the nutrients it is feeding on out of you tank

 

[melosu58]

I have to disagree, one of the fuel factors for algea is lighting. That`s the purpose for the black out for nuisance algea. I do agree that nutrients play a big part but so does lighting. Esp old bulbs where the spectrum has shifted. I have always suggested a black out for tanks that are over run with algea. By the time the lights are turned back on then the algea is gone or loose enough to siphon out.

 

[mr.trooper]

it is just that the best way that i have figured out how to get rid of algea is to take away its main food source so that it dies off naturally i got rid of hair algea with weekly water changes of ro it went away in a month and i didnt change my lighting schedule at all

 

[melosu58]

That`s possible. But the perfect senario would be to get rid of as many factors as possible

 

[mr.trooper]

that is true but you dont know what that will do to the rest of the life in the tank when you mess with the light schedule as well as the water changes and filtration

 

[melosu58]

I just know it will work. I have seen it work in others tanks and others also suggest the same thing. I`ve even seen reef tanks do it with real success. I`ve made my suggestion and I know it will work IMO and IME.

 

[mr.trooper]

the same with my i am just a more natural way of approaching things was just trying to understand your point of view

 

[loyalrogue]

My plan of attack includes keeping the light off for about a week, and feeding only several times a week as opposed to every day. I also plan to keep up on water changes and to perform them more freequently.

Excellent plan.
You've pretty much covered all the bases there.
Barring the addition of a refugium, you could add some macro algae directly to the tank which should help export excess nutrients as well.
I keep at least a ball of cheato (brillo) macro in each of my tanks, and it really helps.

When I introduce the life rock however, I will need to supply adequet light, correct? Who is to say that this algae problem will not return? Will the live rock help in controlling the excess nutrients causing the algae problem?

No to the first question.
Nitrifying bacteria doesn't need light to grow, or do it's job.

There's no guarantees that the algae won't return.
As a matter of fact, it will almost certainly return if your tank conditions become ripe for it thru neglect.

While adding more filtration via LR alone will help take care of some pollution, it really works best in combination with a good sandbed, a protein skimmer, and some form of macro algae.

BTW, how many lbs. of LR (and LS) do you have in the tank already?
A good rule of thumb is 1.5-2lbs. of LR per gallon to effectively handle a normal bioload.

On a side note, what kind of cleanup crew do you have?

I currently have four fish: 3 perc clowns and a yellow tang...
...I enentually want to add a corral beauty to the tank. Does anyone think that adding anouther fish would be excessive?

Your clowns will grow to about 3", and one by itself needs a minimum of a 20gal tank.
A Coral Beauty will grow to about 4", and one by itself needs a minimum of a 30gal tank.
Your Yellow Tang will grow to about 8", and one by itself needs a minimum of a 50gal tank.

Even using the oldschool rule of 2-3" of fish per 10 gallons for saltwater, your tank should only support between 6-9" of fish total.
That means your tank was "full" with just the 3 clowns.

Overstocking means more fish waste, and also can have a serious impact on the health of your fish.
While it's possible to successfully run a slightly overstocked tank, it would require much better than normal water quality, and extra attention to avoid problems.

And last but not least, Welcome to AA!!!

 

[melosu58]

Overstocking means more fish waste, and also can have a serious impact on the health of your fish.
While it's possible to successfully run a slightly overstocked tank, it would require much better than normal water quality, and extra attention to avoid problems.

I do believe this is a big part of the problem. You`ll need frequent PWC`s and no new fish to try to put a dent in the algea problem. Even with your plan of attack as LR said if you dont get rid of the bioload problem then it will be back.

 

[Yellow Jobber]

Hi everyone, thanks for all the advice. I also found out that good water flow/movement is important in controling algae. How can this be done without changing the filter unit? I'm thinking about getting a protein skimmer. Will this help with water movement?

 

[melosu58]

I dont think it will help in water movement esp if you are like me and yours is in the sump. But one thing they are good about is getting rid of DOC`s that eventually become excessive nutrients that fuel nuisance algea.

 

[loyalrogue]

I also found out that good water flow/movement is important in controling algae. How can this be done without changing the filter unit?

Add additional powerheads.
Since cyano grows best in stagnant/low flow areas, you can point powerheads at the worst concentrations of cyano to discourage growth in that spot.
Of course that's no substitution for eliminating the initial cause of the cyano...

I'm thinking about getting a protein skimmer. Will this help with water movement?

Not really, but like melosu said, it will help remove dissolved organics that could be feeding the cyano.

 

[Yellow Jobber]

Ok well I got a powerhead. I don't know if anyone is familiar with this one but it is by Zoo Med Aquatic called PowerSweep (Automatic self-rotating powerhead wavemaker). I have a 29 gal tank so I bought the one that says for aquariums up to 30 gal and next to this is the number 214 which I am assuming is gph? Anyway, I have it on the highest setting and it doesn't seem like it is doing all that much. If I put my hand up to it, I can only feel its force up about two inches away. Any further than that and I can't feel anything. I was thinking about taking it back and getting one that is rated for a larger tank. I would rather have a device that I can regulate as opposed to a device that is set to the max and is not giving me what I need/want. Tell me what you think because I don't think that it is making much of a difference.

 

[loyalrogue]

That PH is probably model #PS-20 which pumps 160gph which adds about 5 to your total turnover rate. (gph divided by total tank volume)
A good turnover rate on an average SW reef tank to shoot for is between 25-30 when you add together all pumps, PH, filters, etc.

Personally I don't like the rotating powerheads (wavemakers) because the rotating part always seems to end up breaking on me, and sticking in a weird position long before the full life of the pump motor.
(I've got 4 of them and they're all stuck like that)
Less moving parts = less to go wrong in my book

Also IMHO, I would always go with a PH that's rated for bigger than the actual tank.
I figure over time all pumps gradually lose head pressure so it's better to start with an excess anyway.
You can always use a valve/nozzle to diffuse or decrease the output, but you really can't do anything to increase it. (unless you buy the type you can take apart and mod, but that's another topic.)

Also, if I remember correctly, (I don't have a box to check) the gph rate that's printed on the box is normally what the pump will do at surface level.
If I'm not mistaken, I've seen some PH that come with a chart on their literature or box that shows less gph the deeper underwater the PH is used.

Of course you don't want to get something so oversized that it turns your tank into a sandstorm, but the general concensus seems to be "bigger is better".
HTH

 

[Yellow Jobber]

Ok well I'm going to think about it. After this algae problem is cured I hope to buy some LR from my LFS. I think it is safe to say that the LR will be fully cured coming from a LFS. I have read a little about it and know that there should not be any black areas or white film. I know that it should not smell bad either but I have a few questions. 1. Should I worry about bristle worms or is this something that has already been eliminated at this point? 2. Is there a chance of getting any parasites in my tank from the LR? 3. When buying, should I buy only a little at a time or just buy it all at once, keeping in mind that my tank already has fish in it? 4. I also heard that it is important to elevate the LR keeping space between it and the bottom of the tank to insure adaquet flow around and under the LR. What are some effective ways of accomplishing this? You guys have been really helpful. The level of knowledge that is demonstrated on this site astounds me. I greatly appreciate your time and help.

 

[roka64]

I think it is safe to say that the LR will be fully cured coming from a LFS.

This will be the LR that are in tanks with fish.
1. There will probably be bristleworms in the rocks. I have never had a problems with them causing and harm, they are also great for moving sand and eating the stuff the fish miss.
2. There is a small chance. If the fish look healthy and you haven't seen and sick fish, you should be ok.
3. I buy mine as I see pieces that I like. Adding cured LR to your tank shouldn't bother the fish.
4. I keep my LR settled down to the glass bottom, to avoid any chance of it toppling. Flow under the rock is not important, since it will give the beneficial bacteria a nice place to propogate.

 

[Yellow Jobber]

There will probably be bristleworms in the rocks. I have never had a problems with them causing and harm, they are also great for moving sand and eating the stuff the fish miss.

I read on a web site that the LR should be inspected for bristle worms before introducing it into the tank. It said to take tweezers and pull out any that you see sticking out of the pores in the rock. It said that they can become a real problem if they multiply. Any thoughts?

 

[roka64]

I haven't had any problems. I don't think you will hear too many folks say they have problems with bristleworms, fireworms, are a different story. I consider them part of my clean up crew.
I guess when it comes down to it, it is a personal preference...JMHO.