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Old 12-16-2010, 11:18 PM   #41
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Ok, I can set up a small tank tomorrow, that'll let me bring them home over the break too so I can monitor them more closely. I didn't want to do a PWC of more than 20% in an emergency like that, I was always told that it can add stress and end up killing the fish, is that not the case?

I'll try to cycle up the tank during the break. I was planning on making some base rock over the break as well, it won't be ready in time though if I try to reset and start cycling the tank this weekend. I can probably only afford about 10lbs of live rock, can I start with that and add in the base rock I make once it's ready or will the tank need to cycle again once I do that?
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Old 12-16-2010, 11:30 PM   #42
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wow...with ammonia 3.0ppm, surely the live stock will die....why dont u transfer all the live stock u have to the nearest LFS...let them tk care for u...and let the tank cycle first...
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Old 12-17-2010, 10:18 AM   #43
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Ok, I'm setting up the small tank this morning and I wanted to test the water just to check. The water coming right out of my tap after mixing with salt and adding a declorinator is reading 0.5 ppm. What on earth? I'm retesting just to check.
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Old 12-17-2010, 12:34 PM   #44
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There is very little beneficial bacteria in the water column. Bacteria attach to surfaces (Rock, grains of sand, the glass, etc.). With ammonia reading 3ppm and fish in the tank a 50% pwc is in order. Twice daily 20% - 30% PWC's may be necessary to keep ammonia low enough to save the fish.

Take them home over the break and try to maintain the water parameters in a 10 gallon tank with 2x/daily pwc's until the QT tank is cycled.

Take the time to visit some local LFS and ask them about local clubs, and fill them in on your project. Especially at this time of year you may end up getting some equipment (test kits with near expiration dates, maybe even a piece or two of LR or base rock, etc.). Get in touch with the local reef clubs, join them and let them know about the project. Many civic minded people would be happy to help. I know that if you were in my area I would be happy to donate some old equipment, LS and LR to your project. Heck, I'd even volunteer to help the kids out in school as the project got started.

You don't have to do this alone. But, you do need to do it the correct way to turn into a valuable lesson for the students.

The fish you have may have already suffered enough gill damage due to ammonia poisoning that they may not make it. Take that as a learning opportunity. Start again with the fishless cycling method and teach that to the students. It would be great if the end result of the project is a class full of students who decide to have their own piece of the reef at home, and know how to do that successfully.

I think I speak for everyone here in hoping for a successful project for you and the students.

Also, please update your profile with your general location. There may be members of this forum who are close enough to help.
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Old 12-17-2010, 05:05 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by New Aquatics Teacher View Post
Ok, I'm setting up the small tank this morning and I wanted to test the water just to check. The water coming right out of my tap after mixing with salt and adding a declorinator is reading 0.5 ppm. What on earth? I'm retesting just to check.
Depending on the dechlorinator that you used, it may be giving you a false positive reading, but even if there was ammonia it would be bound into a non-toxic but still bio-available form. So it's not going to hurt your fish but will still be used in the biological process.

Although you do need to make sure you are using a product that removes BOTH chlorine and chloramine. What product are you using?
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Old 12-17-2010, 10:24 PM   #46
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+1 bro cmor.....
me either will love to help if if ur from malaysia....
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Old 12-18-2010, 11:57 PM   #47
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Ok, QT set up at home and all five remaining fish seem to be doing ok. I double checked and the dechlorinator does remove both chlorine and chloramines so that shouldn't be an issue. The ammonia levels in the tank this morning were down to around 0.25 as well. The only concern I have now is the pH and alkalinity, they're both high. The ph is reading in the 8.4 to 8.6 range at home and the alkalinity is reading in the 2.9 to 3.6 range. Everything I've been seeing is suggestions for if the pH etc. is too low, nothing for if its too high, is this a concern, and if so how do I fix it?
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Old 12-19-2010, 12:49 AM   #48
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Also, the water is cloudy, every other time I've filled a tank its cleared up in a few hours, but I filled the tank up over 24 hours ago and the water still looks cloudy.
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Old 12-19-2010, 01:38 AM   #49
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Tank cloudiness is most likely a bacterial bloom. This often happens as the bacteria population seek the right level to deal with the ammonia/nitrites. It will clear up on its own if that's what it is.

As far as pH is concerned, it will vary a lot when the tank is cycling. Don't try to do anything about it while cycling as it will just be a moving target. Even after cycling, it's debatable as to whether or not you can really do much to alter the pH assuming it's within acceptable levels.
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Old 12-19-2010, 01:59 PM   #50
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Don't worry too much about pH as long as Alk, Calcium and Magnesium are all in range.

Keep doing 2x/daily PWC's to keep ammonia at ZERO. The cloudiness is probably due to bacterial blooms as Kurt stated.

The Relationship Between Alkalinity and pH-CHEMISTRY AND THE AQUARIUM
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