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Old 10-29-2008, 09:18 PM   #21
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What can i use for nitrates i was under the impression that it "detoxifies nitrite and nitrates" but i probably have a misunderstanding of what this means...
Perhaps the only 100% fool proof way to reduce nitrAtes is doing water changes. I'm not exactly sure what they mean by 'detoxify' as it relates to nitrIte and nitrAte, but it does not mean that they are completely harmless, nor does it mean that they have magically left your tank. While I like Prime and have used it, IMO it is going to be much easier to address the problem directly rather than search store shelves for some product...pretty much because you stand a good chance at finding one, but they are only band-aids which, in many cases, only mask problems. Or in other words, your goal is to maintain a high standard of water quality, not just get your test kits to tell you what you want to hear (or see).

I'm not familiar with your whole situation so pardon me if these are repeat questions that you have answered elsewhere...

How long has your tank been up and running?
~ Above and beyond the type of 'cycling' we speak about most of the time on forums like this one, SW tanks also experience other types of 'cycles' that are very hard to avoid and/or control completely (this is usually why there is a distinction made between a cycled SW tank and an established SW tank). One of these other cycles is the highly annoying algaes that can pop up from seemingly no where so if your tank is new or even new-ish, this may be somewhat normal.

Do you have a phosphate test kit?
~ While nitrates certainly contribute to algae problems, phosphate is also a key factor and it is also pretty hard to avoid since even the food you feed your fish will contain at least some. Like nitrates though, you can control phosphate via water changes.

Are you using Prime because you use tap water?
~ If so, I highly suggest looking into using a much more pure source of water such as RO water, or even distilled since the salt mix you are using already contains the appropriate levels of most major and minor trace elements. Additionally, it is very possible that you are adding nitrate and phosphates during water changes because it could be in your tap water. IMHO, even if a series of test performed on your tap water shows nothing, using RO, or another type of nearly pure water is the only way we can be certain that we are starting off with the best foot forward and from someone who has tried to go otherwise, there is a very noticeable difference.
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Old 10-29-2008, 10:59 PM   #22
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Thank you for helping out the info is good to know and answers alot of my questions. although i am not new to the hobby i am not at all well educated about it and just recently have decided to broaden my knowledge. The tank is about 2 months old so yea it is relatinely new. I have been trying to reduce feeding to see if that helps my nitrates but i will most certainly do a water change as soon as i get my test kit in...
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Old 10-29-2008, 11:34 PM   #23
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Also i have a 1x96w 50/50 compact florescent on a 10g. Is there such thing as TOO much light?
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Old 10-30-2008, 12:28 PM   #24
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IMO, yes, there is such a thing as too much light but that applies in quite a few different ways. For example, having too much sunlight is a bad thing...keeping your lights on for too long is a bad thing...using the wrong spectrum of light and/or using old bulbs is a bad thing. On the other hand, a lot of light is good in many ways as well and I still think you can curb the algae growth in ways that are totally separate from light.

Somebody can correct me if I am wrong but I believe that many of the more common forms of algae can gain little or nothing from actinic lighting so if you want to observe your tank for longer periods of time, perhaps you can move toward a system which has at least two bulbs that you can control independently (which is what I do, for the most part).

Out of curiousity...

Do you have any sort of clean-up crew in this tank?

If you look very closely at the green, hair-like algae, does it seem to be sort of fuzzy or look similar to a feather?
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Old 10-30-2008, 12:35 PM   #25
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I have to filters a aqua clear30 whuch does have a sponge the other one which is a tropfin 20 does not have a sponge but it has about 2/3 pound of ruble LR
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Old 10-30-2008, 12:51 PM   #26
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it seems i have both and about the same amount of each. The only cleaning crew i currently have is an emerald crab but he seems to like the red algae better then the green. I was thinking about ordering a cleaner crew online but have never ordered online so I don't know how that works or even if they guarantee that i will receive them alive... any recommendations?
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Old 10-30-2008, 02:31 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Tommy Gun View Post
Perhaps the only 100% fool proof way to reduce nitrAtes is doing water changes.
I totally agree. Read this for an excellent battle plan.

FantasyReef Databases-Viewing item "10 Step Plan for Nuisance Algae Control"
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Old 10-30-2008, 02:42 PM   #28
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Both threads merged together.
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Old 10-30-2008, 11:35 PM   #29
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I did a 20% water change (about 2.5g) and used reverse osmosis water bought from a Glaceau machine at publix. I also replace one filter media with LR... Am i supposed to see an immediate results in the nitrate lvl because i am still getting a reading of 20?
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Old 10-30-2008, 11:45 PM   #30
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Am i supposed to see an immediate results in the nitrate lvl because i am still getting a reading of 20?
Most definitely. Perhaps your test results are not accurate for some reason. Think of it this way...if you mix a pitcher of Kool-aid and poured a glass from the origonal container, you would never wind up with a glass of plain water, right? Nitrate and other chemicals are the same; they are equally distributed throughout the water so removing some water means you are removing some nitrate.

My suggestion would be to gain a second opinion from a completely different test kit and/or make sure that both the RO water and the RO water after it is mixed with salt does not contain nitrate.

Forgive me if I missed where you said which test you use but if you are using the 'test strips', if they are not stored properly 100% of the time, they can give false readings.
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