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Old 10-30-2008, 11:52 PM   #31
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That is probably my problem i have a complete test kit but unfortunately its 350 Miles away.
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Old 10-31-2008, 12:37 AM   #32
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Yea, I'd say that is a problem. I'm sure there may be some differences but in my area, I can pick up a basic SW test kit for less than 20 bucks that comes with ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. Over all, I think the liquid test kits are actually more economical than the strips because they can be used so many times.

Anyways, I realize that the nitrate reading probably makes a lot of sense to you because of the algae problem you are faced with but keep in mind that nitrate is not the only factor here...so, in reality, the main problem is that you can't yet rule out nitrates until you can be reasonably sure your test results are somewhat accurate. I'm still thinking that this might be connected to your tank being newer and/or your use of tap water. In any case though, this isn't really anything that I would panic about and I think you are doing the right thing by addressing as many different possibilities as you can.
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Old 10-31-2008, 01:08 AM   #33
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I am just worried it will suffocate my corals Ive had to remove it from the Zoa's multiple times and it is overgrowing some of my other corals (which seemed to be stressed lately). I don't plan on dismissing nirtate or phosphate till i am able to conduct and accurate test with the liquid test kit.
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Old 10-31-2008, 07:42 PM   #34
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I am just worried it will suffocate my corals
I don't mean to insult your intelligence or anything but you could just pull it off the rock and throw it away. In fact, most clean up crew members that will help with hair algae will do a better job with eating it as it begins to grow and may simply ignore it when it is longer.
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Old 10-31-2008, 08:39 PM   #35
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None taken. The problem is its growing between the zoas and ox the xenia and i pull off what i can but it returns by every couple of days
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Old 10-31-2008, 10:49 PM   #36
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Just for the record, I didn't mean to imply that your pulling it off the rock will result in the algae never coming back but instead, I'm only saying that you can remove it when/if it begins causing problems such as enveloping a coral.

I apologize if I missed it but the reason I asked if this algae looks somewhat like a feather or not is because the 'feather' version is probably Bryopsis. This is important because, as far as I know, there are very few inverts or fish which will eat it. Otherwise, perhaps adding to and/or changing your clean up crew members can help you control the algae growth. That is, in conjunction with other tactics as well (i.e. clean up crew members rarely solve the problem entirely without additional help).
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Old 10-31-2008, 11:51 PM   #37
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I recently ordered a cleaner crew but have noticed that my emerald crab will not touch the green algae. I have been pulling off what i can for but am trying to touch the corals as little as possible because i just super clued the frags to pieces of live rock yesterday evening. I hope that physically removing the algae along with weekly water changes will help stop the algae from continuing to spread. I am new to the hobby so any insight i receive will and has been usefull. Forgive me if I do not understand somethings i am slowly gathering knowledge.
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Old 11-05-2008, 05:41 PM   #38
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IMO, yes, there is such a thing as too much light but that applies in quite a few different ways. For example, having too much sunlight is a bad thing...keeping your lights on for too long is a bad thing...using the wrong spectrum of light and/or using old bulbs is a bad thing. On the other hand, a lot of light is good in many ways as well and I still think you can curb the algae growth in ways that are totally separate from light.

Somebody can correct me if I am wrong but I believe that many of the more common forms of algae can gain little or nothing from actinic lighting so if you want to observe your tank for longer periods of time, perhaps you can move toward a system which has at least two bulbs that you can control independently (which is what I do, for the most part).
Sorry to hijack the thread, but do you happen to know the recommended spectrum of lighting for controlling algae growth? I know for FW it's best to stick to the red/yellow bulbs for plant growth, but blue/purple lighting will cause an algae bloom mighty quick.

I'm curious since I just bought my lighting, and I noticed for SW everyone seems to go with the blue/purple lighting. I currently use one deep blue bulb (for corals) mixed with my flora-glo (yellow/sunlight) bulb from my FW planted setup.
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Old 11-05-2008, 08:12 PM   #39
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Ok so it has been a week and a half now and the algae seems to be relentless. My levels are
Nitrate: 0-5
Phosphate: somewhere between 0-0.25
Ammonia: 0
PH: 8.1
Calcium:400
ALKA: 120
Salinity: 1.023
temp: 76-80
Lights go on for 6 hours a day

Is there anything else i can do? its making my tank look horrible and i have to stick my hand in there easily once every 2 days to clean algae off of Zoas and other corals. I have also done two water changes 3 days apart i am planin on another one tommorow. I have also switched to DI/RO water
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Old 11-05-2008, 08:13 PM   #40
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Could this be because i have a 96w 50/50 on a 10gallon?
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