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Old 12-21-2005, 09:11 PM   #11
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You need to test the water for PO4 before you go over board with water changes. Your ro/di may contain PO4 and or Nitrates. When DI units get old it will pass by them. So doing wc with water that has them is just feeding the algae.
Also if you have high NO3 and PO4 in your tap water 1 di may not be enough. I run a dual DI because of my water at certain times of the year has high po4.
more info on the tank would be helpful also...
size, substraight, sump, w/d and so on...

good luck with the battle..
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Old 12-22-2005, 10:16 AM   #12
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Hey,
I didn't even think of checking the NO3 in the newly ro/di 'd water , I will check it tonight because I just made a new batch of water last night.

Specs on the tank:
72gallon bow front, ~60lbs of regular rock for about a year now, crushed coral substrate, Fluval 404 filter, 3x Maxijet 1200's , lights are on for 7 - 8 hours a day, , no sump no fuge.

Fish: 1 bicolor dwarf angel, three green/blue chromis.

i realize that crushed coral substrate might be a place for stuff to be trapped under,even though it is pretty finely crushed but I was thinking of swapping it out for sand down the road , just need some money.

I did a good algae scraping last night and made it spotless, algae free. I said this in another post, but i'll admit that I haven't really kept up with the tank lately and have been busy with other stuff but i'm ready to get back in it. So in that time alot of junk could have built up in the filter and substrate, i've been trying to vaccum stuff out pretty well though.
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Old 12-25-2005, 05:30 PM   #13
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Quote:
crushed coral substrate, Fluval 404 filter
= High Nitrate

The CC is trapping detritus and so is the cannister filter. You need to up your water changes to around 10% weekly along with good vacuum maintenance of the CC substrate and weekly cleaning of the cannister filters. That should help get the NO3 down.

Also, what brand test kit are your using?
I find the SeaChem readings to be very high while the Salifert gives me very low readings.
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