alk

[clowninround]

Ok I asked my husband to pick up a new alk test. He got one from Red Sea. Problem is, it really doesn't say where it's at. It just has this color chart with low, normal and high. Mine read high (not too high, but high). Is this bad? I am geussing if it is I need to do a water change?

 

[SaltwaterTeen]

LOL, you got the same test as me! Is it on the high side of normal?? I paid like $20 for it cuz of the pH is also in it :| I keep mine in the middle of normal or alittle on the high side of normal. I believe that in the middle of normal is 2.5meq/L.

 

[clowninround]

Yeah, it has the ph labeled, whats the deal? Thats why my husband bought it too! My alk is actually in the middle or low side of high .

 

[steve-s]

That's the problem with these types of test kits. They give you a range but no relavence to what it means. Being on the "low side" of high (assuming 3ish mEq/l) I wouldn't be all that much concerned but it also depends on your Ca reading as to whether or not it could become a problem. Do you know the Ca level?

I would suggest at your next opportunity you get a kit that gives actual numbers. Salifert, Seachem or La Motte would be good choices.

Cheers
Steve

 

[phases99]

If you want a good, easy and cheap kit try the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals KH test. You can get it online for like $5.

 

[clowninround]

I use there other test kits too, never had a problem. Seachem is another one I really like, but I wasn't there to buy it My calcuim is just barely above 380. It started off at 350 earlier this week after a w/c...working on getting it up a little higher.

 

[phases99]

If your Alk registered as high(above 12dkh?) on the Red Sea test kit then a Ca level of 380 is fine and I wouldn't try to raise it. You don't need or want to be on the high end of both ca and alk simultaneously.

 

[steve-s]

But you do want them to be balanced in some kind of natural ratio. Higher alk demands higher Ca for proper invertebrate growth and overall health. If alk is at the high end, I would preferabley allow alk to lower naturally while bring Ca into balance with the alk or boost the Ca to 425-430 if the salt mix (IO?)is the reason why there is an imbalance.

Unbalanced chem will cause scleratinian growth to stall or cause improper/week formations. Certain mobile inverts, especially snails can also become lethargic.

Cheers
Steve

 

[clowninround]

Could this be the reason my xenia isn't pulsing? They are multiplying (slowly) but not pulsing. They open when the light comes on and close when it goes off. It seemed really weird to me since all my corals are doing so great. Yes, it is IO, I have never switched brands, ever. Also, I just added new lights, I have them coming on for 4 hours/day and then just the atnics for the rest of the day (9 hours total). Went from 4 watts to 7 watts/gal of VHO.

 

[clowninround]

I know that the lights probabally have nothing to do with it, I just wanted to know if this was enough lighting and the correct way to acclimate.

 

[steve-s]

Could this be the reason my xenia isn't pulsing? They are multiplying (slowly) but not pulsing. They open when the light comes on and close when it goes off. It seemed really weird to me since all my corals are doing so great. Yes, it is IO, I have never switched brands, ever.

"Off" chemistry can often be the root of many problems but Xenia is one of those who knows corals. I have tried everything recommended from higher alk, lower temps to the iodine myth. None have any real affect and I find much of the evidence coincidental. I maintain my chem in the middle of NSW and have found my Xenia multiply quite well and pulse as they should. Stick to nature and she'll keep you on the straight and narrow

If your Xenia has never pulsed, then you should be prepared for the chance they never will. Some species of Xeniids never actually do and those that do may never start once they stop. That's not to say they can't. (almost a brain twister)

Also, I just added new lights, I have them coming on for 4 hours/day and then just the atnics for the rest of the day (9 hours total). Went from 4 watts to 7 watts/gal of VHO.I know that the lights probabally have nothing to do with it, I just wanted to know if this was enough lighting and the correct way to acclimate.

That's actually fine but you could leave the actinics on the full "normal" length of the photoperiod and have the whites come on where the middle of the photoperiod would be. Then every few days just add a ½ hr to one end of the cycle alternately until you eventually reach the desired regular cycle.

Cheers
Steve

 

[clowninround]

Thanks for all your help! I will follow your recommendations