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Old 03-09-2012, 09:15 PM   #11
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I was always told not to worry too much about ph as long as its close to 8.0 and stable its not a huge deal. Mine runs consistantly at 7.8 and my tank is perfectly fine. All my corals and fish are perfectly healthy and have been for 6 months since I got them. As for ro water just a tip that might be a little cheaper. I buy mine at the grocery store where you fill up the jugs yourself. Its only 35 cents\ gal idk what your lfs charges but if its anything like mine their prices are usually outrageous! As for the ph thing people might say I'm wrong but at the end of the day take the advice for what it is. Good luck with your tank.
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Old 03-10-2012, 12:36 PM   #12
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I think I pay 45 cents per gallon for the lfs rodi water. What sucks is the drive there to town. I end up spending $40 in gas to get there! I do have well water with a softner and an ro unit under my kitchen sink but I'm afraid to use It for the tank
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Old 03-10-2012, 12:50 PM   #13
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I've heard some people have good luck with it and some don't just test the water right out of your ro system in your house for phosphate and nitrate. But if you have an ro system I would think the tests should come up 0 but check it out maybe it will work. I have city water with no softner and I have a 6 stage ro\di under my sink and it works great
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Old 03-10-2012, 02:44 PM   #14
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Ok here are today's colorblind tests. Nitrite are more "blue" today. Can't tell if it's zero or 0.25. Should I go down to ace hardware and add some ammonia to make sure this is cycled?
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:41 PM   #15
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The nitrite will look completely blue if it's zero. Looks like your trites are at .25. You can dose to 4 ppm ammonia. If after 24 hours your ammonia and trites are zero, you're good to go. If not, give it more time.

I say get the ammonia from ace. It's less than a $5 for a decent size bottle. Just be careful; a little goes a long way with that stuff. I've heard folks mention 2.5 ml of ace ammonia per 10g water will get you to 4ppm. I've been too lazy to do the math and check
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:42 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luvbugg654 View Post
I think I pay 45 cents per gallon for the lfs rodi water. What sucks is the drive there to town. I end up spending $40 in gas to get there! I do have well water with a softner and an ro unit under my kitchen sink but I'm afraid to use It for the tank
If you're spending $40 per trip to get to your LFS, i would definitely get yourself a RODI system. Even if you're water isn't great and you have to replace your filters a bit more often; it seems like you'll still come out ahead financially.
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Old 03-10-2012, 09:15 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AquaRick

If you're spending $40 per trip to get to your LFS, i would definitely get yourself a RODI system. Even if you're water isn't great and you have to replace your filters a bit more often; it seems like you'll still come out ahead financially.
You can get decent ro\di systems for pretty cheap. I just got a 6 stage ro\di for under my sink that I also use for my tank it included a 4 gal reserve tank and it only cost me $189. I also know that bulk reef supply has a build your own and you can build one the way you want for under $100
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Old 03-10-2012, 10:05 PM   #18
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Ok well went to the lfs and did what they told me to do even tho I shouldn't have. They were testing my nitrates and didn't shake the bottle or anything same with nitrites so of course their readings were off. He tried to say the nitrates were zero... Tested it correctly when home and it was 40-50 ppm like I thought. He did sell me some Seachem buffer which I added 2 tsp in my 55 gallon and my ph is now 8.2. He tested my calcium and said it was high but didn tell me a value. My dkh before buffer was 11 now it's 12.
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Old 03-10-2012, 10:08 PM   #19
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Also added a cap full of ammonia from Acehardware and my ammonia is 2 ppm. The lfs said he never heard of doing this with live rock the end of a cycle. Basically:

Did I do any harm by adding buffer for ph 8.2 and Alk 12 currently?

Is dosing toward the end of the cycle with lr to 2 ppm of ammonia sufficient?
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Old 03-10-2012, 10:28 PM   #20
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I've always been told to not dose during the cycle. Idk if it has any adverse effects but hopefully it will be ok. I also would dose to 4ppm on the ammonia because it will make sure there is enough benificial bacteria to handle future bio load. 2 ppm is not a huge amount but I guess neither is 4ppm but it seems to be the standard. If all the ammonia and trites are gone after 24 hours the cycle is complete
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