API Test Colorblindness

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Luvbugg654

Aquarium Advice Regular
Joined
Feb 27, 2012
Messages
51
Ok so I think I am colorblind because my boyfriend and I can never seem to agree on what color values are what. What do you think? Day 13 of cycle with live rock and sand
 

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Hi your ph looks about 7.8, ammonia looks about 0, nitrite is roughly 0.25-0.50 & nitrate looks like its on the bottom number.
 
Ya sorry I cut off the nitrate values. So inset them up close to the. Poor guide but not touching. If you set the tubes against the white background actually touching the values seem darker but lighter if not touching. Which way is the right way any idea?
 
Wow my autocorrect totally messed up that message. Guess I should proof read first! Basically do you put the tubes against the white background touching or not touching because they look darker when touching. They aren't touching the color guide in the picture
 
Any thoughts on my low ph? It's never been higher than 7.8.
 
Don't worry about your pH until you're done cycling. In the mean time, you can point your powerheads towards the surface to increase agitation. Getting more air in your water will increase your pH. Just don't add any buffers until your cycle is done, and IF you need to.
 
Ya I read about the power heads and did that a day or two ago. When would you recommend adding a buffer? Under 8.0? Also I'm assuming after I'm done cycling and have done my water changes to bring nitrates down the if its low I'd buffer. Correct?
 
What kind of water are you using while you cycle? Rodi?

Yes, wait to buffer until after you've brought your nitrates down once your cycle has been completed.
 
I was always told not to worry too much about ph as long as its close to 8.0 and stable its not a huge deal. Mine runs consistantly at 7.8 and my tank is perfectly fine. All my corals and fish are perfectly healthy and have been for 6 months since I got them. As for ro water just a tip that might be a little cheaper. I buy mine at the grocery store where you fill up the jugs yourself. Its only 35 cents\ gal idk what your lfs charges but if its anything like mine their prices are usually outrageous! As for the ph thing people might say I'm wrong but at the end of the day take the advice for what it is. Good luck with your tank.
 
I think I pay 45 cents per gallon for the lfs rodi water. What sucks is the drive there to town. I end up spending $40 in gas to get there! I do have well water with a softner and an ro unit under my kitchen sink but I'm afraid to use It for the tank
 
I've heard some people have good luck with it and some don't just test the water right out of your ro system in your house for phosphate and nitrate. But if you have an ro system I would think the tests should come up 0 but check it out maybe it will work. I have city water with no softner and I have a 6 stage ro\di under my sink and it works great
 
Ok here are today's colorblind tests. Nitrite are more "blue" today. Can't tell if it's zero or 0.25. Should I go down to ace hardware and add some ammonia to make sure this is cycled?
 

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The nitrite will look completely blue if it's zero. Looks like your trites are at .25. You can dose to 4 ppm ammonia. If after 24 hours your ammonia and trites are zero, you're good to go. If not, give it more time.

I say get the ammonia from ace. It's less than a $5 for a decent size bottle. Just be careful; a little goes a long way with that stuff. I've heard folks mention 2.5 ml of ace ammonia per 10g water will get you to 4ppm. I've been too lazy to do the math and check ;)
 
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I think I pay 45 cents per gallon for the lfs rodi water. What sucks is the drive there to town. I end up spending $40 in gas to get there! I do have well water with a softner and an ro unit under my kitchen sink but I'm afraid to use It for the tank

If you're spending $40 per trip to get to your LFS, i would definitely get yourself a RODI system. Even if you're water isn't great and you have to replace your filters a bit more often; it seems like you'll still come out ahead financially.
 
AquaRick said:
If you're spending $40 per trip to get to your LFS, i would definitely get yourself a RODI system. Even if you're water isn't great and you have to replace your filters a bit more often; it seems like you'll still come out ahead financially.

You can get decent ro\di systems for pretty cheap. I just got a 6 stage ro\di for under my sink that I also use for my tank it included a 4 gal reserve tank and it only cost me $189. I also know that bulk reef supply has a build your own and you can build one the way you want for under $100
 
Ok well went to the lfs and did what they told me to do even tho I shouldn't have. They were testing my nitrates and didn't shake the bottle or anything same with nitrites so of course their readings were off. He tried to say the nitrates were zero... Tested it correctly when home and it was 40-50 ppm like I thought. He did sell me some Seachem buffer which I added 2 tsp in my 55 gallon and my ph is now 8.2. He tested my calcium and said it was high but didn tell me a value. My dkh before buffer was 11 now it's 12.
 
Also added a cap full of ammonia from Acehardware and my ammonia is 2 ppm. The lfs said he never heard of doing this with live rock the end of a cycle. Basically:

Did I do any harm by adding buffer for ph 8.2 and Alk 12 currently?

Is dosing toward the end of the cycle with lr to 2 ppm of ammonia sufficient?
 
I've always been told to not dose during the cycle. Idk if it has any adverse effects but hopefully it will be ok. I also would dose to 4ppm on the ammonia because it will make sure there is enough benificial bacteria to handle future bio load. 2 ppm is not a huge amount but I guess neither is 4ppm but it seems to be the standard. If all the ammonia and trites are gone after 24 hours the cycle is complete
 
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