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Old 01-07-2005, 03:12 PM   #31
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How many GPH is the "small" pump that you're using? This looks great. I just passed up some macro last night because I didn't have a good place for it. I'll have to get this setup and then go back for some. Also how many watts and what kind of light is that on top of it?

Thanks!
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Old 01-07-2005, 03:42 PM   #32
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Phyl-

It is a Miniaqualight with two 9 watt lights. Here a link with more info from thatpetplace.com.

http://thatpetplace.com/Products/KW/.../Itemdy00.aspx

the PH is a hagen 20 (formerally 201) and is rated at 125gph.

http://drsfostersmith.com/product/pr...40660&siteid=6

Jim
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Old 01-11-2005, 03:08 PM   #33
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Thanks for all the info on the Fuge! I picked up the exact same container you have at Target today for $3.99. It fits perfect in the limited amount of space I had left under my tank.

Quote:
I have had my top off pump run dry a few times too but it is still chugging. I just need to figure out a way to feed my top off from my RO automatically.
Easy enough... You'll need a Kent float valve ($15) , some 1/4" tubing ($2), and some 1/4" push-to-connect fittings ($2-$5).

Place the float valve in the bucket used to supply water for the top-off system (you'll need to drill a 5/8" hole in the bucket to install the Kent float valve) run the tubing back to the RO bucket/container that collects your "purified" water. Use a push-to-connect 1/4" fitting (1/4" NPT/PTC, might add some expoy to secure the fitting) on the RO side, add a in-line push-to-connect 1/4" valve somewhere for maintenance and you're all set.

Keep in mind, we're talking gravity here. You'll need to have the RO bucket/container elevated higher than the auto top-off bucket.

HTH
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Old 01-11-2005, 03:23 PM   #34
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This is a great thread! Keep it up, learning lots here!

PS. A little off topic, but i read somewhere that you could use a floodlight of some sort, like from HD and just clip it above your fuge, and that would be good enough. Any comment on that?
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Old 01-11-2005, 03:57 PM   #35
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A little off topic, but i read somewhere that you could use a floodlight of some sort, like from HD and just clip it above your fuge, and that would be good enough. Any comment on that?
I am wondering the exact same thing! Hopefully someone can comment on this.

The Aqualight JamesR is using, while not expensive is around $25-$30. Of course, he is getting 18 watts of PC light out of it. Figure the container is around 5 to 5 1/2 gallons empy - that's over 3.5 wpg!

I've read but have not confirmed from anyone you don't need much light to grow macro. The only thing I am wondering... if using a "flood" light from HD or Lowes is the heat it would generate. Since those bulbs are usually 100+ watts. Just thinking out loud though....
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Old 01-11-2005, 05:13 PM   #36
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I have used a 65 watt grow bulb from HD and currently use a 19 watt mogul socket PC bulb from HD(6500K)

Some Lights of America bulbs are 6500K and are good for fuges. It really does not take anything special. You might get more nuisance algae with a yellower bulb but I have not had any problems. My fuge is in a 25 gal rubbermaid and has about 15 gal of water volume. I grow most chaeto but I have some different types of caulerpa as well. It has been up for about 9 months. 6500k is good for corals so it should be fine for plants.

The mini-fuge on my 10 gal does not have a light at all. It just gets some light bleed off from thecanopy.

There is a BIG thread on RC in the DIY forum and I think there has been some threads here as well.
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Old 01-12-2005, 11:34 AM   #37
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I personally would use two float switches to control the water flowing in. The lower one would contol turning the pump on and once the upper switch is activated, the pump would turn off. This would keep the pump from running many times a day. You could still set it up with a dripper if you wanted. But I would think that with a dripper you could just have it run 24 hours a day anyways and have it only controlled by an upper limit switch. Just a thought.


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Old 01-12-2005, 05:51 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by yaksplat
I personally would use two float switches to control the water flowing in. The lower one would contol turning the pump on and once the upper switch is activated, the pump would turn off. This would keep the pump from running many times a day.
I don't know how you would wire the lower float to kick on when the water drops, and then not kick off when it returns.
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Old 01-12-2005, 06:43 PM   #39
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That would cycle the pump too much, thus reducing the life of the pump.
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Old 01-12-2005, 08:46 PM   #40
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Wow, i gotta show this to my husband! We rarely go away longer than overnight, but when we do, that would be a nice peace of mind. More kudos for u!
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Female Naso "Isabell" or "Izzy", Emperor Angelfish, Flame Angel, Red Sea Sailfin tang "Bambi", Maroon Clown "Nani", 5 Chromis, 1 Aglae Blenny "Bengi" , Yellow Watchman Goby, pr of Banggai Cardinals, Lyretail Anthia, Six Line Wrasse

1 cleaner shrimp, Coral Banded Shrimp, lettuce nudibranch, 1 sand sifter stars, 1 tiny red brittle star "red", 1 tiny red and white banded serpent star, 2 tiny banded serpent stars, small orange Linkia starfish, assorted hermits and snails. Corals: star polyps, A ton of different types of mushrooms, yellow zooanthids, brown-orangish and light blue paly's, orange ricordia.

90g RR, W/D, 120 lb's LR SF eel, pygmy angel, pr sebae clownfish, 4 chromis. Star Polyps & Mushrooms
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