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Old 02-18-2008, 05:30 PM   #41
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But because they're pretty spendy compared to a normal power strip, if you don't know if yours is one, it's probably safe to say it isn't!
The only reason one of those expensive GFCI powerstrips would be necessary I would think would be if it was portable and used at many different receptacles that may not have the protection. Any Fault caught by the expensive GFCI powerstrip would be caught by the wall GFCI receptacle which is only like 5dollars. Verses 50dollars for the Strip with GFCI protection. Any aquarist should have their electrical plugged into a GFCI receptacle for sure.
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Old 02-18-2008, 05:34 PM   #42
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I am no electrician, but I believe you have to place it on the wall at the end of the circuit.....Can anyone confirm or deny this?
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Old 02-18-2008, 07:57 PM   #43
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The only reason one of those expensive GFCI powerstrips would be necessary I would think would be if it was portable and used at many different receptacles that may not have the protection. ...
Or if someone isn't comfortable replacing their existing outlet with a GFCI. The portable ones are just "plug and play."
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Old 02-20-2008, 08:31 AM   #44
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Couple things:

1) You only need one GFCI protected outlet if it is placed properly. The GFCI will protect any outlets further down the circuit path. Best place is on the panel.
2) You can use a GFCI on a 2 wire ciruit but it doesn't create a saftey ground which takes away alot of the benefit. So if you have old wiring with only 2 wires (no ground/bare copper) then the benefit is negated to a large extent.
3) GFCI isn't going to stop/detect small stray voltage leaks . If there is enough leak to trip the GFCI, the fish are probably the least of yours worries at that point.
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Old 02-21-2008, 01:58 PM   #45
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Thanks for the info tawolcott!
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Old 02-22-2008, 07:51 PM   #46
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Some tap tests are in:

Ca 70 ppm
NO3 3-10+ ppm *
Cu ND

*Large variations in tests over the day (Salifert). One was under 3 and then a couple of hours later >10, depending on low or medium range visual method.
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Old 02-22-2008, 08:00 PM   #47
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Some tap tests are in:

Ca 70 ppm
NO3 3-10+ ppm *
Cu ND

*Large variations in tests over the day (Salifert). One was under 3 and then a couple of hours later >10, depending on low or medium range visual method.
I figured you had some nitrates in there. If you decide against RO/DI, then just be aware that you'll never get your nitrates any lower. Phosphates are the other thing you want to test for in tap water.
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Old 02-22-2008, 08:07 PM   #48
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I figured you had some nitrates in there. If you decide against RO/DI, then just be aware that you'll never get your nitrates any lower. Phosphates are the other thing you want to test for in tap water.

I was surprised to find them that high but I am also wondering about the wide ranges I was getting. I've never looked at nitrates before and have no idea as to their variability. I know, especially in agricultural area, seasonal variations can be large. Other kits are en route.

I am looking at some DI units right now. Can they be run 'on demand' or do they need a constant flow? The big ones I work around can just sit or whatever, as long as there is no biological activity. You just regenerate with caustic/sulfuric as needed.


I am going to construct an auto-leveler. How long can DI water sit in a bucket before it gets bug ridden or whatever?
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Old 02-22-2008, 10:15 PM   #49
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How long can DI water sit in a bucket before it gets bug ridden or whatever?
As long as it is in a sealed container there is really no way it can get contaminated. I keep mine in a 32gallon trash can with a lid on it. Just as long as it aerates with a powerhead for a while after you add the salt and it should be fine. Water doesn't really expire. The RO/DI unit I got from Melevsreef produces water fairly fast. it is rated 100gpd I usually turn it on right before bed and when I wake up 8hours later the can is full. I am praying I don't oversleep one day may have a pond in my garage. Haven't had a problem yet.
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Old 02-22-2008, 10:23 PM   #50
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aerates with a powerhead for a while after you add the salt and it should be fine.
I was thinking more of pure water for evaporative loss, level top-off's, no salt.

This actually isn't a bad idea, non-aquarium-wise. I need DI on occasion around the house and this is nicely convenient. Looks like I can get 3 GPH for just a little over $100 or so.
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