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Old 07-22-2003, 01:13 AM   #11
steve-s
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossv
the filter is a hang on, not sure about the gph.... it isnt covered=/ are there covers i can buy for it that will fit it?
If possible you want nothing impeding the gas exchange, so having no cover over the tank is best. You really need to find out the GPH of the PH and the filter, it is important. If possible post the brand and model of each.


Quote:
the powerhead is at the top.... is it safe to bring it down to the bottom and submerge the cord in water? it has a little thing to hang it on the top so i just assumed thats what i do.
No leave it at the top. The more the suface is aggitated (ripple effect) the better. Judging by the way you describe it though, it does not have much GPH and I think this is a majority of the ph problem.

Do a test. Take some tank water out and let it sit near an open window in a glass for about Ĺ-1 hour. After the time has passed, take some new tank water out and do a test on each sample and compare the results. Post that once it's done.

As stated the temp should be in the 78ish range. As long as the temp is not always changing and constant, that the most important.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 07-22-2003, 01:34 AM   #12
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ok thanks.... ill try that water test soon as the sun comes up =)
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Old 07-22-2003, 01:36 AM   #13
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Do not test the ph first thing in the morning. Always wait a few hours after the tank gets light for the O2 level to come up and aid the ph.

It's best to wait until noon or later.

Also don't forget about the GPH questions...

Cheers
Steve
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Old 07-22-2003, 02:32 AM   #14
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oh yea... ill check the boxes tomarrow and reply. thx again =)
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Old 07-22-2003, 12:58 PM   #15
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IMHO your tank was way overstocked. A new 35gal. tank is not big enough for a hippo tang much less 1hippo, 1 damsel & a maroon clown. Are you sure the tank was fully cycled? It sounds like they died from ammonia or nitrite. I would cycle the tank, make sure it is cycled, then add fish appropriate for a 35gal tank at a slow rate. It is much more expensive to replace dead fish than to take it slowly from the start.

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Old 07-22-2003, 03:56 PM   #16
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ok i did that test w/ the water in the sunlight... both were the same. I read off another forum that you can add baking soda to raise ph.. is that safe?

my gph on my powerhead is 174 and the filter im not sure but probably about 25-50. when i get payed on thursday im gonna go get a protein filter w/ a powerhead so that will help.

also... whats the watts per gallon you need for coral... i forget, and **** those fixtures/lights are expensive
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Old 07-22-2003, 04:18 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by rossv
ok i did that test w/ the water in the sunlight... both were the same. I read off another forum that you can add baking soda to raise ph.. is that safe?
I would not recommend the use of soda's at this point. If you are not 100% accurate, you can cause more damage than anything else. Once some more info is provided, it will be much easier to determine the best solution.

I did not mean for the test to be done in sunlight, It was meant to be placed near an open window to increase the ambient O2. If that's what was done, what was the ph reading. Still 7.8?

I would also suggest doing the test on a batch of salinated water you use for the tank.

Quote:
my gph on my powerhead is 174 and the filter im not sure but probably about 25-50. when i get payed on thursday im gonna go get a protein filter w/ a powerhead so that will help.
The skimmer will do little as far as circulation in the tank but it will help somewhat with aeration. You are definately on the low side of for GPH. An addition power head similar to the one you have now will do wonders.

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also... whats the watts per gallon you need for coral... i forget, and **** those fixtures/lights are expensive
The (very) loose guideline is 3-5 watts per gallon but I would suggest doing alot of research first. Decide the type of tank you really want your's to be. Types of corals you wish to keep as well as any other light dependant animals. All require different levels of care and different light requirements. Once you know "what's, why's, and where's", a better recommednation can be made about specific light set ups.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 07-22-2003, 06:24 PM   #18
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ok, was just wondering about the lighting. wanna get a little to help w/ coraline algea growth and ect. havin enough trouble as it is just w/ fish hehe

yea i did the water next to a window and it was still 7.8

also i just went to the lfs and bought some marine fish flakes... the most expensive there were

also got some green algea that u clip on the side... is that helpful?

also.. hehe... at the lfs there was a PH 50% percent off.... so ill get that asap =)

thanks so much for the help... what other questions do ya have???
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Old 07-22-2003, 06:24 PM   #19
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also, was my fishload to big? the tang was small.... smaller than the clown.
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Old 07-22-2003, 07:39 PM   #20
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also, was my fishload to big? the tang was small.... smaller than the clown.
3 fish in a 35g tank is by no means "overstocked" however a tang of anykind or size is a poor choice for that size tank. Tangs are very tireless swimmers and very active at "rummaging" around the rockwork. The minumum recommended tank size is 75g (48") tank. When choosing fish, you should research the max. adult size prior to purchase. The general rule is 1" of fish for every 5 gal of tank size. It also depends on if the fish are active, agressive and/or benthic.

Quote:
also i just went to the lfs and bought some marine fish flakes... the most expensive there were
Cost does not always equate good or bad. You are better off looking at the label and determining by the ingredient list how good a product is. You may simply be paying the LFS's shipping costs. What brand was it?

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also got some green algea that u clip on the side... is that helpful?
For herbavors yes, but most likley the clown will ignore it.

Quote:
also.. hehe... at the lfs there was a PH 50% percent off.... so ill get that asap =)
Great, that should help alot.

Quote:
what other questions do ya have???
What was the ph of the makeup water your using. If at the accepatable range (8.2-8.3), I would do a few 10% water changes between tomorrow and next week.

Cheers
Steve
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