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Old 09-22-2009, 01:49 PM   #11
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I'm going to do a 40% PWC and keep the lights off for a couple of days plus increase the skimming. I have one Monti cap and 1 BTA in the tank along with the CUC, they should be OK for 3 to 4 days. My fish are still in QT, I'm bringing them out of HYPO. I was looking forward to getting them back in the DT, so what's a few more days. I think I have to get some more Turbos and emeralds, they are eating this stuff like crazy, I wish I could clean the rock that good.
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Old 09-22-2009, 06:52 PM   #12
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If they(CUC) are eating it then it's not cyano..almost nothing eats that stuff.
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Old 09-23-2009, 07:04 PM   #13
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If they(CUC) are eating it then it's not cyano..almost nothing eats that stuff.
Thats good news. I'm also replacing my T5HO ballast with an Icecap 660 unit (this is going to increase my T5HO's from 54 watts per bulb to 85) and replace my 2 420nm Super Actinics with Actinic white 12000k lamps because the lamps I'm using on my MH's provide the proper spectrum and don't need any supplemental actinic light. I figured I would do this because I noticed that this brown algae is most prominent around the perimeter of the tank where the lighting isn't as strong and the Super Actinics are, there is hardly any of this stuff in the center line if the tank where the MH's shine.
This is on top of the PWC and lights out treatment.
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Old 09-23-2009, 08:35 PM   #14
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(this is going to increase my T5HO's from 54 watts per bulb to 85)
Overdriving them will also kill their life span. Plan on replacing them every 6 months.
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Old 09-23-2009, 08:42 PM   #15
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Overdriving them will also kill their life span. Plan on replacing them every 6 months.
I understand that their life span will probably be shortened, but UV lighting didn't indicate that and recommended using this ballast with their bulbs for that reason so I'm assuming the bulbs were designed to handle it. In any case shouldn't they be replaced every 6 to 8 months anyway?
What do you think about my theory?
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Old 09-23-2009, 09:02 PM   #16
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What do you think about my theory?
The theory that the lights are causing the diatoms? Nope...I don't buy it.
The silicates are causing it. If your using a RO/DI unit, change the DI resins. If your not using a RO/DI...get 1.
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Old 09-24-2009, 06:05 AM   #17
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I was reading online about diatoms and a lot of articles indicated poor lighting and extended photo periods are contributers to diatom blooms. I'm using an RO/DI unit and DI resin is still that blue green color (None of it has changed to brown yet).

I did another silicate test a few minutes ago on the tap, ro/di, freshly mixed salt water (using RC now), and DT water

Tap=3.2
RO/DI=0
Salt Mix=0
DT=0
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Old 09-24-2009, 03:47 PM   #18
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When did you take the readings that you first posted, because it had a silicate reading?
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Old 09-24-2009, 05:17 PM   #19
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When did you take the readings that you first posted, because it had a silicate reading?
I took them the day I posted. I may have made a mistake with trying to do all the readings in a rush, I was also testing my QT tank water as well which is I was using regular IO and it is reading .2-.5. I got up early this morning and re-ran the tests just to make sure and it turned out to be the reading from the QT. I just got done with a 45 gallon PWC and will re-test again tomorrow morning.
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Old 09-24-2009, 06:50 PM   #20
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I think you are getting it under control. Good stuff.
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