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Old 10-29-2013, 01:24 PM   #391
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I just looked at the pics again and it appears tht the other line is going back up to feed a second return which I would expect with a large tank. If that's the case you have 900 gph going to each return with almost 4.5 feet of head loss (3ft stand plus 20" high tank i think) so that puts 450 coming back into the DT at each return. This would also explain why the prev owner had 2 mag 9.5s, one feeding each return. You will be supplementing flow in the tank with powerheads so you could leave it, or an alternative is to come over the back with one overflow and use locline and a Y to spread it out. This would give you closer to 1300 coming back in.
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Old 10-29-2013, 04:40 PM   #392
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Is the check valve a Lowe's spring loaded deal or is it a swing valve? Sorry if I missed it in a prior post but it's a long thread already. If it's spring loaded, it take a ton of pressure to get it open. Ditch it if so.
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Old 10-29-2013, 04:51 PM   #393
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Yep, it is a spring loaded check valve. Its worked in all my other tanks so I figured why not? lol

I'm looking at all you guys posts and I'm starting to get confused. :-(

Would this fitting help my issue?

Insert Y Fitting - Insert x Insert x Insert
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Old 10-29-2013, 04:59 PM   #394
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That check valve is probably cutting your low by 1/3. The flow has to literally push the spring open to get by. Something like this will eliminate all restriction on the return: Swing Check Valve True Union - Bulk Reef Supply On top of that, the spring will corrode eventually. Just looking out for easy ways to improve the system.
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:27 PM   #395
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That y-fitting would help. Running sweeps or shallow angles helps to preserve the flowrate ofa pump. I still need to eliminate one more t split on my setup
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:28 PM   #396
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I got something like that, but all clear, on eBay. I have it on my vertical pipe coming off the return pump. I figure that way, when power stops, the pressure of the water coming down will close it. No spring needed that way. Clear is good because you can see if its getting nasty over time plus, the end caps unscrew so it can be cleaned.
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:28 PM   #397
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I appreciate the input Mrbee

The only is issue I would have in taking it out is that the ball valve is totally almost flush with it so Iwouldnt be able to hook the ball valve back up to the tubing. I guess i could just buy another ball valve though....

Did some water tests and its looking good! Maybe a trace of ammonia , no nitrites at all and trace nitrates.
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:32 PM   #398
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Would this work as well?

True Union Swing Check Valve - Slip x Slip
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:32 PM   #399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTodd View Post
I got something like that, but all clear, on eBay. I have it on my vertical pipe coming off the return pump. I figure that way, when power stops, the pressure of the water coming down will close it. No spring needed that way. Clear is good because you can see if its getting nasty over time plus, the end caps unscrew so it can be cleaned.
That's the one I've used for over 20 years.
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:38 PM   #400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carey View Post
Yup, same thing. As for the T, you can find specialty Ys to reduce strain if you look hard enough online. Product Listing PVC-Wyes
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