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Old 03-15-2012, 01:17 AM   #31
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Also if anyone wants to know I used 4x4s to use as legs. Since I had 2x4 on the inside I was able to carry load across the entire 4x4 by notching the top of it. I'll post a pic tomorrow. Also everything is held together by 3" zinc plated construction screws. Each post has 8 of them in the bottom pocket screwed in. Almost all of it is glued together(except where it might need to be taken apart) this stand will hold upwards of 4500 lbs!
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Old 03-15-2012, 01:24 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibrahim
Mdf is known to grow mold and snap under moist conditions so it's dangerous to use on a stand. And that's because it absorbs moisture and it will weaken over time.
Look at the frame. The mdf will in no way be any type of support. Its cost effective and very easy to work with.

We changed direction on sump location and r keeping it where it is so mold will not be a problem. I'm a mold inspector and I have kids so I know what to look for. Plus mold does not grow off synthetic things, only dirt or dust that is on it once it gets wet and stays moist for 48 hrs.

That's why when u have a water damage and you. Call a company they want to put 3-4 dehus in. You as a homeowner seeing the cost freak out but if u dry up a finished basement in under 48hrs you'll save a lot and have very little chance of mold
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Old 03-15-2012, 01:25 AM   #33
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I'm not trying to be rude by any means. The point I was tryin to make was the mdf is purely cosmetic.
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Old 03-15-2012, 01:28 AM   #34
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4500 pounds.. that stand could hold 10000 pounds, lol. Very nice build. Did you use a level? Also how did you attach the 2x4's to the 4x4's? Notched with one of them 3" zinc plated screws through the back?
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Old 03-15-2012, 01:35 AM   #35
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4500 pounds.. that stand could hold 10000 pounds, lol. Very nice build. Did you use a level? Also how did you attach the 2x4's to the 4x4's? Notched with one of them 3" zinc plated screws through the back?
I went through the front and back actually. When you see the pics I post tomorrow you'll see more clearly. No level. No level needed. If you know what your building and are good at it you know that if you keep the same dimension you'll be flat. Now on the other hand I know my floor isn't level front to back. I have to jack up the floor to correct it. I'll save that for later. what I'm planning is a perfect square flat and straight stand. I'll correct the floor which should be done anyways. Btw it's only 1/4" over 3 ft but the joists are single 2x8s and will be reinforced on every corner and in the field of the footprint of the tank.
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Old 03-15-2012, 01:49 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reefnoob84
I'm not trying to be rude by any means. The point I was tryin to make was the mdf is purely cosmetic.
I thought it was near your sump so evaporation from the sump would cause mold to grow in the stand but now I know it's not so thanks for clearing that up. Also MDF holds moisture well so it won't dry up in 48hrs and constant evap would keep it moist if the sump was under the tank. People also use MDF in canopies and see the problem months later. Don't fret, you weren't rude at all.
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Old 03-15-2012, 01:52 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by Reefnoob84 View Post
I went through the front and back actually. When you see the pics I post tomorrow you'll see more clearly. No level. No level needed. If you know what your building and are good at it you know that if you keep the same dimension you'll be flat. Now on the other hand I know my floor isn't level front to back. I have to jack up the floor to correct it. I'll save that for later. what I'm planning is a perfect square flat and straight stand. I'll correct the floor which should be done anyways. Btw it's only 1/4" over 3 ft but the joists are single 2x8s and will be reinforced on every corner and in the field of the footprint of the tank.
Nice. I need a level when I build. I only have a circular saw, which creates uneven cuts. When resting boards on top (or aligning them) things get off by 16ths of an inch. Compounded, I end up with a quarter inch unlevel stand that I'm not comfortable setting a big tank on. I will invest in a table saw at some point in the future.
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Old 03-15-2012, 02:00 AM   #38
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Quote:
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Nice. I need a level when I build. I only have a circular saw, which creates uneven cuts. When resting boards on top (or aligning them) things get off by 16ths of an inch. Compounded, I end up with a quarter inch unlevel stand that I'm not comfortable setting a big tank on. I will invest in a table saw at some point in the future.
You really only need the table saw to rip lumber. To make perfect cuts get a miter box. You can find them used at every pawn shop. Also always have a speed square so you can make sure the blade is set plumb and square for 90 degree cuts. And as far as sheeting use a router with a bearing. Mount what ever your using square your stand with the material and screw it up run the router through it and viola. Perfect cut to the size you want. I'll show you more as we go along. I'm a union carpenter too if I didn't already tell
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Old 03-15-2012, 09:09 PM   #39
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So hears the progress I made on the stand I ran out of material tomorrow the majority of the trim will be finished and doors will be cut.

Attachment 82743

This is where the top connects to the legs.
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Old 03-15-2012, 10:34 PM   #40
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Agenda for tomorrow afternoon is to finish the trip, sand down the plastic trim and mask for paint, strip out old silicone and clean the glass. If I have time I'll mask the inside in perperation for silicone saturday morning. Also Saturday I'll be cutting out doors and attaching trim to the cutouts to use as doors and caulking the trim.
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