Check my outline of what I'm doing for new 20gal Reef tank

[banzai75x]

I haven't done anything yet but this is my plan and my outline. What do you guys think?

Aquarium Setup

20 Gallon (24x13x16)
2x65w Powercompact
2-Hagen 402 powerhead’s at each corner

Pre-setup – Curing live rock
Notes: Water is ~ 78-80F, Lights on for 3-4 hrs day during cycle period (1 month)
Water: 1.023-1.025

Check ammonia and nitrates weekly

Day One
1. Mix water in seperate container – allow to sit overnight and run powerhead and heater

Day Two
1. Add 25-30 lbs of live rock
2. Add 20lbs of live sand (live aragonite) or enough for 4” sand bed. (How many lbs. do you think I would need?)
3. Add water
4. Start powerheads
5. Add a shrimp (cycling)

(Do I need to scrub rocks daily?)

Day Eight
1. Do I need to replace 50% water?

Day Fifteen
1. Do I need to replace 50% water again?

When nitrate and ammonia levels are zero, perform 50% water change. After 24 hours, check the pH of the water and adjust as needed to achieve the desired level of 8.1-8.4

Q: Add clean up crew towards end of cycling process or when what occurs?

 

[banzai75x]

Is this the proper way to start the tank?

 

[steve-s]

Re: Check my outline of what I'm doing for new 20gal Reef ta

All in all I would say you have a fairly well laid plan

(Do I need to scrub rocks daily?)

No, it would really depend on the amount of sponges, plants and other dieing matter left on the rock if completely uncured. If the rock has for the most part no obvious decaying matter, then it should be fine left alone.

Day Eight
1. Do I need to replace 50% water?

Day Fifteen
1. Do I need to replace 50% water again?

No too both questions. Water changes should not be done until after the cycle has completed. Changing the water will only deplete the necessary food sources for the growth of the bacteria and prolong the cycle. If anything, run a skimmer to remove the excess DOC from the LR.

When nitrate and ammonia levels are zero, perform 50% water change. After 24 hours, check the pH of the water and adjust as needed to achieve the desired level of 8.1-8.4

Even though the NH4 and NO2 are zero, I would wait another week to allow the NO3 to come down a bit on it's own and then perform a 25% water change. IME, the 50% is not necessary.

Q: Add clean up crew towards end of cycling process or when what occurs?

Once the NH4 and NO2 are eliminated naturally and the NO3 is at a safe level, the "clean up" crew can be safely added. I would urge you to drip acclimate them into the system. It will reduce the chances of deaths.

Cheers
Steve

 

[EMS503]

I agree with Steve-s , But I would reduce the size of your power heads (MOP)
I am using 402's in my 75 gal. reef and found that it was to much current for most of my corals (unless you plan on having acroporas, they like high flow) and clams.
I am only using 1- 201 Hagan and a 301 Hagan attached to a spray bar along with my fluval 303 in my 30 long reef setup, More then enough flow. You will find many different oppions just sort through the posts and decide which seems best for your setup.
John