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Old 10-24-2011, 09:10 AM   #61
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Here are today's test results (10-24-11).

10 gal
pH 7.8
ammonia 0 (added 5 drops ACE ammonia)
nitrite 1
nitrate 80
salinity 1.025
temp. 75 F

30 gal.
pH 7.8
ammonia 1 (added 15 drops Ace Ammonia)
nitrite 1
nitrate 20
salinity 1.025
temp. 81 F

It looks like we may have only a couple more days left on the 10 gal. being cycled. What do you think? - being patient, but fish this weekend would be nice!
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Old 10-24-2011, 09:45 AM   #62
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Hard to tell from the pictures but in the 1st and 3rd pictures I think I see feather dusters at the top of the rock. If there is a white tube that they are coming out of I bet that is what they are. That is a good thing.
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:11 AM   #63
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Looking good. In the second pictures do I see a lot of bubbles or is that just the reflection from the light? Bubbles should be avoided.
Are bubbles bad? Why?
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:16 AM   #64
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We're glad to know that they're probably feather dusters. We were afraid that they might possibly be aipastia anenomes. What do you think the round things growing on the rock are in picture #2?
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:48 AM   #65
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Not sure on the round things in Pic 2. I have never seen that before. Yash, not entirely sure why but yes, bubbles are not a good thing in a SW tank.
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Old 10-24-2011, 12:12 PM   #66
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We've been wondering/struggling about the bubble issue too. I know that air bubbles are definately wanted in FW; as the air bubbles burst at the surface it creates a gas exchange and allows more oxygen saturation in the water. In SW I know that sponges can not be exposed to air or they will die, wondering if that's more the reason.? Not sure.... Some used to think that micro air bubbles would get trapped in a fish's gills or cause pop eye, but that's not the case - pop eye is usually caused by poor water quality issues - mainly an ammonia spike. I've also heard that saltwater is more dense, therefore has less oxygen so I would think that you need at least some air bubbles for gas exchange or fish can actually suffocate.? Not sure about that either, though...just makes some sense to me. Air bubbles in SW make it harder to see, as well and doesn't look great in photos. I need to definately dig a little deeper on this one, those are just some of my thoughts on the issue.

Does anyone else have knowledge or thoughts on this air bubble in SW issue?
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Old 10-24-2011, 12:34 PM   #67
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Here is today's update and a few more questions that we have.

Should an ammonia spike of 2 or 3 ppm be enough to establish beneficial bacteria?

We're also starting to talk about and research what fish and invertebrates we'd like to add once it's cycled. Do you have any suggestions for hardy beginner fish or invertebrates?

Also, should we keep the 10 gal. as a QT to hold any purchases before adding them to the 30 gal.? The 10 gal only has incandescent lighting, so we know that it's not effecient and we won't be able to have corals in that one. Maybe sometime in the future it could become a sump or fuge for the 30 gal? If we were to do that what would we need?
An ammonia spike of that level will be suffient. However, if you wish to keep more of your existing life alive on the LR, you should try and keep ammonia levels below 1ppm. This is called a soft cycle, and while it makes the whole cycling process take longer, it ensures the survival of much more of the living microorganisms that you paid for when you bought the LR.

As far as fish and invertes, do some research on what your ultimate goal as far as the tank itself is. You mentioned corals, do you plan on soft, hard, or mixed corals. Often the corals will dictate which fish/invertes are appropriate for you system.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yash View Post
Are bubbles bad? Why?
Quote:
Originally Posted by themartins View Post
We've been wondering/struggling about the bubble issue too. I know that air bubbles are definately wanted in FW; as the air bubbles burst at the surface it creates a gas exchange and allows more oxygen saturation in the water. In SW I know that sponges can not be exposed to air or they will die, wondering if that's more the reason.? Not sure.... Some used to think that micro air bubbles would get trapped in a fish's gills or cause pop eye, but that's not the case - pop eye is usually caused by poor water quality issues - mainly an ammonia spike. I've also heard that saltwater is more dense, therefore has less oxygen so I would think that you need at least some air bubbles for gas exchange or fish can actually suffocate.? Not sure about that either, though...just makes some sense to me. Air bubbles in SW make it harder to see, as well and doesn't look great in photos. I need to definately dig a little deeper on this one, those are just some of my thoughts on the issue.

Does anyone else have knowledge or thoughts on this air bubble in SW issue?
Bubbles in and of themselves are not bad to my knowledge. However, they reduce visability in the tank and they greatly increase the salt creep (build up of white precipitate on the outside of the tank around where the bubbles come to the surface). Skimmers actually relie on the creation of bubbles to move proteins to the surface and skim them off.

Thumbs up to you all for choosing the set-up a saltwater tank as part of your education. You have a grand and exciting adventure ahead of you.
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Old 10-24-2011, 12:57 PM   #68
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If we're going with a soft cycle, to keep most of our living organisms living ... How would it be to add Purigen and Chemipure Elite to our canister filter along with the live rock rubble we have in there now?

We're interested in thoughts and oppinions on this filter issue as well.
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Old 10-24-2011, 01:37 PM   #69
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If we're going with a soft cycle, to keep most of our living organisms living ... How would it be to add Purigen and Chemipure Elite to our canister filter along with the live rock rubble we have in there now?

We're interested in thoughts and oppinions on this filter issue as well.
From what I've read on Purigen, I would say that is an excellent choice assuming that your canister filter is chambered so that it can be kept seperate from the LR rubble. Purigen needs to be rinsed periodically, so you're not going to want to mix the two. As for the chemipure elite, I'm afraid I can not comment as I know nothing about it myself.

Here is a link to an excellent article on the process of soft cycling written by a friend of mine;
Soft Cycling the Saltwater Aquarium
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Old 10-24-2011, 02:19 PM   #70
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Does anone use Chemipure Elite? Do you use it along with Purigen?
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