Coralline Algea Question

[awillemd1]

I just noticed that I have lots of coralline showing up in my refugium which I keep lighted 24/7, however, I don't seem to be getting any on my live rock in the main aquarium. I have a 90 gallon with 2 x 175 10,000K MH lights. I am starting to see some coralline growing on the glass, but again, I don't notice any growing on the live rock. Is there a logical explanation for this. Is the MH lighting not suitable for a lot of coralline algea growth?

Thanks in advance for any advice here.

Willem

 

[steve-s]

Coralline tends to do better in lower intense lighting but will definately grow with the lighting you have. Best suggestion is to keep "seeding" the tank. If you scrape the coralline regularly, the spores will spread faster and you'll see the growth rate increase some.

Cheers
Steve

 

[awillemd1]

Steve-s:

Once again thank you!

Your answer is not intuitive. I would have thought letitng it stay on the glass and grow bigger would produce more spores.

Another question I have is the amount of time I should have my MHs on. Right now I leave them on about 8 hours. I don't have any coral at this point so I haven't really considered increasing the amount of on time.

Is a more typical or standard amount of time to have them on around 12 hours. This should significantly increase the amount of light energy and also correspondingly increase the coralline growth I would think. Is this correct?

Thanks.

Willem

 

[seaham358]

When you scrape the spores will spread through the tank seeding areas where you have no growth.
also keeping you calcium and alkilinity levels up will help it grow. Most run cal 400-450 and alk 9-11.
How old is the tank? I can take time to get going but once its does you may be asking how do I control it...

 

[steve-s]

When you scrape the spores will spread through the tank seeding areas where you have no growth.

also keeping you calcium and alkilinity levels up will help it grow. Most run cal 400-450 and alk 9-11.

I tend to disagree with that and it's a bad habit to get into. Base your Ca off your salinity and on downwards with alkalinity/Mg as well.

If maintained @ 35 ppt, Ca should be at/near 415 ppm. Don't knock yourself out looking for exact numbers though, just be in the general range of where your supposed to be.

Another question I have is the amount of time I should have my MHs on. Right now I leave them on about 8 hours. I don't have any coral at this point so I haven't really considered increasing the amount of on time.

Is a more typical or standard amount of time to have them on around 12 hours. This should significantly increase the amount of light energy and also correspondingly increase the coralline growth I would think. Is this correct?

Not necessarily with coralline. You'll find the longer the MH lights are on, the lighter in color the coralline will become. Usually a light pink higher in the tank to a darker purple in the lower/less lit area's. With no coral in the tank, I'd just opt for a 5 hr MH time frame if you have supplimental HO fluors. Your not benefiting anything 'cept the power company.

Once you begin adding corals depending on species, you will then have a little easier time acclimating them to the lights you have. As you increase the difficulty/demand of the species, you can slowly increase the time the MH remain on. Generally speaking though, 10 hrs is usually plenty.

Cheers
Steve

 

[seaham358]

"I tend to disagree with that and it's a bad habit to get into. Base your Ca off your salinity and on downwards with alkalinity/Mg as well.

If maintained @ 35 ppt, Ca should be at/near 415 ppm. Don't knock yourself out looking for exact numbers though, just be in the general range of where your supposed to be."

Your saying if I keep my Sg at 35 then my alk will balance itself?? Not sure I follow your thinking..
You need to keep both in balance and if your tank uses alk and cal you need to dose.
You also say be in the general range, what is your general range if mine is wrong.

Well I can say that everyone in my club (about 45 active members)all try and keep there numbers near the ones I have posted and we all have good coral growth and coraline algae growth.
I have done this in my reef sense it was set up in 02 and I have great coraline growth and my corals grow very well.
Like other things in this hobby there is more then one way to do things..

 

[steve-s]

Your saying if I keep my Sg at 35 then my alk will balance itself?? Not sure I follow your thinking..
You need to keep both in balance and if your tank uses alk and cal you need to dose.

You've misunderstood. Base the chemistry of your water starting with the salinity. I did not mean it will balance itself in any aspect. How/when/if additives may be needed is still a factor.

ie..
Salinity 35 ppt, Ca 415 ppm, Mg 1250-1300 & alk 2.6-2.8 mEq/l.

You also say be in the general range, what is your general range if mine is wrong.

General means within reason I guess. 400-450 is little wider range than I would suggest, more like 400-420 ppm. Anything over 415 ppm Ca (balanced with the salinity) forces scleractinians to deposit to their skelatons much much faster than normal and must also increase the production of new flesh along with it. The higher the Ca above NSW @ the relative salinity, the more stress. Scleractinians are best suited at as close to 410 ppm as possible. This can/will severly stress corals and make them much more prone to poor health/disease.

I will see what articles I can find for you to help explain better.

Like other things in this hobby there is more then one way to do things..

Chemistry however isn't one of them
It's pretty much black and white. What you are conveying is preference not fact. 8)


Cheers
Steve

 

[awillemd1]

Thanks again.

With no coral in the tank, I'd just opt for a 5 hr MH time frame if you have supplimental HO fluors.

I have the capability to add HO fluors to my lamp case. Other than the cost in power, what would be the advantage of using fluorescent lighting? Can you make a recommendation here regarding the ballast and tubes?

Thanks.

Willem

 

[seaham358]

I like the ice cap ballasts.
I would put 2 URI super actinic bulbs to add a little color to the tank and it is good for a dusk day effect.

 

[steve-s]

I have the capability to add HO fluors to my lamp case. Other than the cost in power, what would be the advantage of using fluorescent lighting?

You can increase the viewing time of your tank with fluorescents. Just running MH is fine but some coral types will not appreciate a longer intense illumination period as others. Soft/LPS in particular. If you where to run the MH for 8-10 hrs, the corals would receive the necessary photoperiod for photosynthesis but you may lose out on "appreciation time". Stepping up/down the intensity before and after the MH is also much easier on the inhabitants, especially if keeping fish. You are not going from semi darkness to midday sun.

Immediately intense lighting situations can be quite stressful on many fish species and coral/inverts as well. The actinic "glow" offers by corals with fluors can be quite exhilarating as well.

Can you make a recommendation here regarding the ballast and tubes?

That would depend on your hood length and what you eventually wanted to accomplish. VHO or T5 would do well and a little easier on the budget to boot. Personally I would opt for the T5.

Cheers
Steve

 

[awillemd1]

Awesome!

Thanks once again.

Willem