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Old 01-28-2004, 07:40 PM   #11
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The alk produced was beyond "high" for me, as I literally stopped at 50 drops (translates to dkh) before I used up the whole test kit. I may contact Aquarium Systems directly to get some theories.
There was a noted issue with ALK and IO a few months ago. It was dicussed for sometime on Randy's forum at RC.

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Is this to your knowledge a possible IO issue, or do you think it holds for all salt brands?
I would think this would hold true for all brands. and I would think the effects would be more pronounced in a bucket, than in a bag.
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Old 01-28-2004, 07:42 PM   #12
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how can i test for alk?
purchase an alkalinity test kit, salifert makes a good one that is easy to use and very accurate.
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Old 01-28-2004, 07:45 PM   #13
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What is good ALK level?
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Old 01-28-2004, 08:05 PM   #14
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a good alk level depends largely on your CA level.

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Originally Posted by [url=http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm
Solving Calcium and Alkalinity problems[/url]]
Recommended Ranges

Before getting into problems and solutions, let’s first define what constitutes a problem and what does not. Based on published studies3 involving the calcification of corals and other organisms, I recommend the following:

Alkalinity2 (due to bicarbonate and carbonate but not borate, so those using Seachem salt must raise this value substantially to accommodate the borate being counted in standard alkalinity tests)

2.5 - 4 meq/L or 7 - 11 dKH or 125 - 200 ppm CaCO3 equivalents

Calcium:

380 – 450 ppm calcium ion or 950 - 1125 ppm CaCO3 equivalents

If you are anywhere within these ranges for both parameters, you do not need to perform any correction on your tank chemistry, though you may choose to do so for other reasons. In this sense it makes no difference what the relationship is between the two values. If alkalinity is 4 meq/L, it is not inherently any “better” for calcium to be at 380 ppm or 450 ppm. Also, these ranges are somewhat arbitrary, especially at the high end. In fact, the primary reason for having a high end at all is that it is often difficult to keep one of these parameters above the minimum end of the range if the other is over the top end. So if one of these parameters is slightly above the high end, and the other is OK, that is not a problem worth worrying about.

One of the reasons that you may find compelling to adjust values even when within the recommended range (or outside but close to it) relates to test kit errors. All measurements of calcium and alkalinity have some uncertainty associated with them. Even if the kit is a reliable one, you may still want to strive to be in the center of the range to make it less likely that you are actually outside of it and only appear to be inside of it due to uncertainties in the measurement. This issue is especially important at the low end of the ranges, and not so important at the high ends.
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Old 01-28-2004, 08:58 PM   #15
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This may be a stupid question considering where I come from, but which version of dKH do you use? I see that there is an english version a german version and at least one other. So which one is commonly referred to, I assume the english?
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Old 01-28-2004, 09:42 PM   #16
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What English version are you refering too or do you mean GH?

The two main standards are typically mequivalents per litre (mEq/l) and degrees of Karbonate Hardness (DKH)

1 mEq/l = 2.8 DKH

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Old 01-29-2004, 01:32 AM   #17
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Hey Hoops, just a suggestion, have you checked your kit against your tank water just to be sure the kit reagents haven't gone funky on ya..just a thought.
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