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Old 04-30-2005, 09:50 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve-s
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shannono
what are the appropriate levels in a fish only tank for the following:
pH
KH>> 1.5-3 mEq/l NSW values
CO2>> Don't waste the money on this
SPG>> 1.023-25 SG or 35 ppt if using a refractometer
NO3>> Under 20 ppm is best. While fish will tolerate higher NO3 readings, it can still lead to many types of bacterial issues. Parasites don't just "happen" so it is not an issue. They are either present or they're not. Best means of preventing that is to QT all new arrivals.
Quote:
Yes, I do have glass lids on the tank, and a canopy with glass lids on it. I can't really remove these because my cat will find a way to get into the tank.
This is your primary issue. Trapped CO2 will inhibit proper pH levels. No amount of surface aggitation can overcome a build up of CO2, you need to allow the tank to breathe. Once the areation problem is solved, brisk surface aggitation will improve the pH. Don't forget this is a cycling tank and wonky chemsitry is part and parcel of the process.

The best means of blocking things from getting in the tank as well as keeping things in is "eggcrate" material. You can find it in your local HD's lighting dept. Looks like this...

Cheers
Steve

I agree
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32 gallon hex, 34 lbs lr, Prizm protein skimmer, fluval 104, 1 maxi jet 750, 1 maxi jet 1200 ph, current 40w 50/50 pc, 1 NO powerglo 19watt, 1 daylight NO 65w (equiv), two damsels, 1 green brittlestar, 1 peppermint shrimp, turbo snails, red legged hermit crabs, kenyan tree coral, leather coral, pumping xenia, mushroom coral, green star polyps, orange button polyps
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Old 04-30-2005, 09:54 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shannono
Quote:
The best means of blocking things from getting in the tank as well as keeping things in is "eggcrate" material.
Will this eggcrate material support the weight of a 14 pound cat? And I am assuming you set your light strip on top of this stuff, correct? A lot of people here seem to advocate removing their glass tops, but by doing this you are leaving your light strip lying on top of the tank, with nothing between it and the water. Is this a safe thing to do?
I am using eggcrate on my tank without any problems. I would try to add legs to your lights if possible to suspend them over the tank. This would help salt creep on the lights too. (I don't have legs on my lights). If you have a center brace on your tank the eggcrate would probably hold the cat. The question that should be asked, has your cat ever gotten on top of the tank before? And what can you do to discourage it? Since 14 pounds of fur isn't probably what you want in your tank in the first place.
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Old 04-30-2005, 10:04 AM   #13
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The question that should be asked, has your cat ever gotten on top of the tank before? And what can you do to discourage it? Since 14 pounds of fur isn't probably what you want in your tank in the first place.
Yes, my wonderful cat (his name is Taz, which fits him to a tee, since he is into EVERYTHING), has incredible leaping ability, and he has absolutely NO PROBLEM jumping on top of the tank. He thinks I bought this aquarium as his new toy. There are products out on the market called "Scat Mats" that release a static electricity type pulse when cats touch it, but I'm not sure I'd want to put that on top of the aquarium. What a dilemma!
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Old 04-30-2005, 12:58 PM   #14
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It would be much easier to help with a solution if you could post a pic of the tank. One of the front of the hood proped up & down in the normal position, one from the back of the hood and one from the side of the tank. It's hard to know what to suggest until you can see what you have. The eggcrate will not support the weight of a cat.

If not, what type/manufacturer light do you have? Is it incorporated into a hood or a stand alone fixture?

Cheers
Steve
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