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Old 09-17-2004, 06:54 PM   #1
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dilema : do I treat one fish or QT all of them ??

Situation :
Purchased 2nd hand marine setup two weeks ago. Now regal tang has white spot (ich).

I've had my tank for just less than 2 weeks (bought it 2nd hand) thought the fish were settling down well.

My regal tang (and other fish) has a voracious appetite, but I noticed 3/4 little white spots on each side of it's body

It lives with 7 other fish, 3 shrimps, a load of live rock with 4 largish corals in 250 litres of water.

Water quality is ok :

pH is 8.4
NH3/NH4 0.1 ppm
Nitrite is 0.1 ppm
Nitrate is 2.5 ppm
Phosphate is 0.4 ppm
salinity is 31.5
temperature is 27.8c
Ammonia and nitrate has dropped significantly, pH has risen, phosphates has dropped slightly.

Regal tang has half the number of white spots this evening.

Does it mean its going to get worse very soon? Terry Bartelme said "Hobbyists are often fooled into believing that an infection has subsided when the telltale white spots temporarily disappear. Trophonts mature and exit fish as part of the parasites natural life cycle before they form tomonts and reproduce. Generally, the white spots will reappear on the fish a few days later, usually in greater numbers."

( http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu.../mini2_bak.htm)

Question is should I treat the regal tang or get a larger tank so that I can put all the fish in it for 45 days treat them with a copper based treatment and leave the main aquarium with it's corals, live rock and inverts by themselves. As this should get rid of ich on the fish and get rid of ich in the display tank.

Cheers
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Old 09-17-2004, 08:02 PM   #2
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Quote:
Does it mean its going to get worse very soon?
Probably, yes. I recently treated a regal for ich with hyposalinity. This is a safe, effective treatment. The advantage to this is you can use filtration on the tank, and keep a biofilter. The trouble with copper, with that many fish in a small tank will be ammonia spikes and daily large water changes. Again with hypo you can even add some lr (expendable base rock usually) in as the hypo doesn't greatly affect the biofilter. The catch is you will need a refractometer (if you don't have one); glass tubes and swing arms won't cut it. You will have to decide which treatment is best for you.

To answer your other question - yes, all fish will need to be removed as they will prevent the parasite from dying off. Here's some info on hypo as well as links to other ich treatments:

http://www.petsforum.com/personal/tr...osalinity.html
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Old 09-17-2004, 08:32 PM   #3
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I agree, need to qt them all (except invert, they can stay) for treatment and leave the main void of fish for 6 weeks to allow the parasite to die off.
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Old 09-28-2004, 06:21 AM   #4
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After disappearing for a few days, yes its back, noticed this morning 3 white spots on each side of my regal tang. Whats worse is that the neon goby has very thin filamental growths in it's side. It still eats, but is swimming awkwardly. It also rests on the rocks more. The other fish seem quite nervous and very, very hungry. Its seems like I haven't fed them for days. Both of my chalk gobies are getting thinner, I have been targetting my feeding at them, in a bid to get them to gain weight, but it doesn't seem to be working.

Now I'm not sure exactly what is wrong. The white spot bit I can take a guess. But what of the filaments ? Velvet perhaps ?

I can see this taking a lot of time to solve - I hope I can minimise the fatalities

I'm thinking of quaranteening ALL the fish, but I'll need to setup another tank sans LR and inverts. Whats the smallest tank I can get away with ?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pH is 8.4
NH3/NH4 0-->0.05 ppm
Nitrite is 0.15 ppm
Nitrate is 2.5 ppm
Phosphate is 0.4 ppm
salinity is 31.5 ppt
temperature is 27.8c
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Old 09-28-2004, 12:58 PM   #5
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on thr Goby it looks (from the pic like a physical injury, however it looks like there may be a few spots on the caudel fins.
as for the size of qt, what are the fish and their appox sizes?
I have put my stock on a 40 gallon (see below) but I also used a 30 gallon container with an overflow and pump to add water volume.
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Old 09-28-2004, 02:11 PM   #6
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Hi Kurt,
Thanks for the reply. I've checked the goby, the spots you can see on the caudel fins aren't there, result of optical distortion and crummy macro mode on my digicam !

Also by this afternoon amost of the filaments seemed to have gone. I'm none the wiser to what it was/is/could be ...

Livestock

1 x hawkfish (3")
2 x clown fish (1.75")
1 x regal tang (3.5")
1 x yellow tang (2.5")
1 x firemouth (2")
2 x chalk gobies (2.5")
1 x neon goby (1.5")
3 x shrimps, corals + various snails

main tank is 65 us gallons

I've just bought a 24 us gallon tank to use as a hospital tank for all the fishes, as its the largest I can accomodate. I'm going to use one of the established eheim pro II external filter on the QT tank.
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Old 09-28-2004, 02:21 PM   #7
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Be prepared for daily water changes to battle the inevitable ammonia. IF you could go up in size a bit, it would make life easier on you. This is a huge bioload for that tank.
Also feed light and siphon out all uneaten food, that will help.
Kurt
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