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Old 12-13-2002, 01:00 PM   #11
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Your profile should be at GMT -5 for proper time settings. The site default should be set to that aswell.

Ok I think the Aquarium Pharm kits are the type that will detect the non toxic version of ammonia that the ammonolock converts the ammonoa to. Only water changes will remove this non toxic out of the tank so your kits will show 0 ammonoa after the use.

I would syphon teh substrate as the bulk of your nitrate and nitrite issues probably are within the substrate. Gravel vac 1/2 of the tank and then wait a few days to to the other half.

No display tank tells me that he has not setup tanks for the 'long haul'. THe for sale tanks ideally should have a reltivly quick turn over time of getting fish in and selling them out so nitrate build up is not an issue.
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Old 12-13-2002, 01:12 PM   #12
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Should I remove my UGF?
Also what is a good test kit for ammonia?
How often and how long should I expect to continue water changes?
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Old 12-13-2002, 01:17 PM   #13
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Your test kit is fine. Just wanted to you be aware of the effects of ammnolock on some types of kits.

Continue water changes till nitrite is 0 along with ammonia and nitrate should be less than 50ppm.

I am very concerned its that high after just a short time period. I was thinking it was from overfeeding but if you feed only every other day unless you feed ALOT every other day then I am at a loss as to why its as high as it is.


I would remove the UGF and also have the CC substrate of 1/2" - 1"

Personally I like a DSB (Deep Sand Bed) for my substrate.

Dont worry your LFS did not steer you wrong they just sent you down a bumpy road.
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Old 12-13-2002, 01:26 PM   #14
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Can I remove my UGF with my fish in the tank and then do another partial? I have 80lbs of 3 different types of CC about 2 1/2". I don't feed them alot.

How often should I test my water to determine that my levels are stable?

I have just tested my nitrite and trates today after doing a 10gal partial yesterday. My nitrites are over 5ppm and my trates are over 160! What should I do. They have been at these levels for 4 days now.

I guess I should of asked this awhile ago. Can you explain to me the benefit of not using a UGF versus using a UGF

Again, thank alot
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Old 12-13-2002, 07:20 PM   #15
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Fishfreek,
Do you think Skip could just make the UGF non-functional and just leave it in the tank. I dont know much about plenums but would this serve the same purpose if it wasnt functiona. I really dont believe in disturbing the sand bed, thats why I ask.
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Old 12-13-2002, 08:12 PM   #16
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Well i want others to chime in here aswell.

But a plenum is very simular to a DSB but they are not as popular now a days. Not sure why but there are just not that many people suggesting plenums on new systems.

Its a crushed coral substrate so its not like its disturbing an existing and working sand bed.

With the crushed coral as deep as it is I fear that it is and will continue to be a detrius trap thus continuing to be a nitrate issue.
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Old 12-14-2002, 01:07 AM   #17
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I would let it go. It's too late to save everything.

The crushed coral and UGF needs to be replaced with sand. That can't happen without moving the fish to another tank.

Just let it go through the cycle and see what's left, then, when everything is healthy, make the change.
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Old 12-15-2002, 12:41 PM   #18
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Old 12-15-2002, 09:03 PM   #19
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Is there a problem using a CC substrate? I've had one for almost a year now, and besides an algea outbreak (due to a LR), I've not had any other problems.
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Old 12-15-2002, 09:08 PM   #20
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No. There is no problem with a CC substrate if its properly upkept. If you syphon the substrate to rid it of excess fish waste and uneaten foods this will help reduce your nitrates.

The deeper the CC substrate the more problematic it can become.
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