Dwarf Octopus - Page 2 - Aquarium Advice

**Fluff** · 09-09-2008, 01:41 PM

I think giving it it's own tank is a good idea. Definately a locking top is necessary. I'd also cover pump intakes with plastic mesh or sponges. Mesh would probably work better since it can be secured so the octo doesnt' pull it off. Just as a precaution. And give it something to do, even if it's just a few large turbo shells to play with. Adding existing cured liverock to the new tank is a good idea so you won't see a cycle.
Oh also, If I'm remembering correctly, dwarfs are nocturnal so don't expect it to be out during daylight hours. You may be able to train it to come out during the day for food though.

Chisel · 09-09-2008, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fluff

Mesh would probably work better since it can be secured so the octo doesnt' pull it off. Just as a precaution.

You would be surprised how strong these little guys are, Frank.

Tank2379 · 09-09-2008, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chisel

You would be surprised how strong these little guys are, Frank.

Since i've purchase my rock it's been filled with suprises this one is the biggest....

Innovator · 09-09-2008, 02:08 PM

Dwarf octopus leaves little to the imagination. Just about every octopus that comes in with liverock or that lfs' sell are called dwarfs because they cannot identify the species. The biggest concern with octopus' in general are pH and PO4 along with heavy circulation. Most studies and experts I've spoken to have suggested they are nearly immune to that of NH3, NO2, and NO3; although, keep these as low as possible. Weekly water changes would be best, but bi-weekly would also suffice. I've found the best coverings are acrylic frames with mesh webbing using fiberglass rods and nuts to secure. Where there's a will there's a way in this setup. If you wish to keep the octopus full term, make sure you interact with it at least a couple time/day (in a perfect world). Also, take a picture so we can help identify it or at least make an attempt. I'm not sure what type of lr you have, but you don't want to interact with a Blue-ring of all species that very well could make it through a liverock shipment. In addition, you might want to create a shroud or wavebox or your octopus will most likely end up injured from any pump intake (they can and will chew threw sponge and even mesh). As for powerheads, I would just remove it since a level of concern arises in chewing a cord...same with a heater along with burns from grasping them.

**Fluff** · 09-09-2008, 02:12 PM

Great post James. Be prepared when I get mine for me to pick your brain.

Tank2379 · 09-09-2008, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Innovator

Dwarf octopus leaves little to the imagination. Just about every octopus that comes in with liverock or that lfs' sell are called dwarfs because they cannot identify the species. The biggest concern with octopus' in general are pH and PO4 along with heavy circulation. Most studies and experts I've spoken to have suggested they are nearly immune to that of NH3, NO2, and NO3; although, keep these as low as possible. Weekly water changes would be best, but bi-weekly would also suffice. I've found the best coverings are acrylic frames with mesh webbing using fiberglass rods and nuts to secure. Where there's a will there's a way in this setup. If you wish to keep the octopus full term, make sure you interact with it at least a couple time/day (in a perfect world). Also, take a picture so we can help identify it or at least make an attempt. I'm not sure what type of lr you have, but you don't want to interact with a Blue-ring of all species that very well could make it through a liverock shipment. In addition, you might want to create a shroud or wavebox or your octopus will most likely end up injured from any pump intake (they can and will chew threw sponge and even mesh). As for powerheads, I would just remove it since a level of concern arises in chewing a cord...same with a heater along with burns from grasping them.

Wow, So basically keep everything covered... Well good thing my brother works for a company that designs plastic modeling I'll see if he could design a thin plastic modeling to cover around the intake and of the tank and heater.... Hopefully he would be able to..... But i'm still wondering why he hasn't escaped yet I have no cover on my tank yet nor do I have cover on my Intake from my canister.....

**Fluff** · 09-09-2008, 09:20 PM

Might night have gotten that far in exploring the tank yet. Good luck with it. I hope it does well for you and I hope you can get some pics!

Tank2379 · 09-09-2008, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fluff

Might night have gotten that far in exploring the tank yet. Good luck with it. I hope it does well for you and I hope you can get some pics!

Yeah I was with my camera when I got home today trying to see if he would stick at least his little paws out but nothing he might be sleping during the day.....

Innovator · 09-09-2008, 11:02 PM

Don't worry, they can be woken up via electrical current XD Ok, well don't do it, but it has been done lol :P Anyways, use a feeding stick (rigid tubing) with solid food at the end to entice. You can also use a lego block to push shrimp into and see if it comes out (won't go all over your tank that way). Just remember not to poke, they hate that

Oh, and if you don't have any corals in the tank you can try leaving only the actinics on in hopes of it coming out.

09-09-2008, 01:41 PM	#11
Fluff The Keeper Community Moderator Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: West Virginia Posts: 10,129 Images: 29	I think giving it it's own tank is a good idea. Definately a locking top is necessary. I'd also cover pump intakes with plastic mesh or sponges. Mesh would probably work better since it can be secured so the octo doesnt' pull it off. Just as a precaution. And give it something to do, even if it's just a few large turbo shells to play with. Adding existing cured liverock to the new tank is a good idea so you won't see a cycle. Oh also, If I'm remembering correctly, dwarfs are nocturnal so don't expect it to be out during daylight hours. You may be able to train it to come out during the day for food though. __________________ ~Cindy

09-09-2008, 02:12 PM	#15
Fluff The Keeper Community Moderator Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: West Virginia Posts: 10,129 Images: 29	Great post James. Be prepared when I get mine for me to pick your brain. __________________ ~Cindy

09-09-2008, 09:20 PM	#17
Fluff The Keeper Community Moderator Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: West Virginia Posts: 10,129 Images: 29	Might night have gotten that far in exploring the tank yet. Good luck with it. I hope it does well for you and I hope you can get some pics! __________________ ~Cindy

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09-09-2008, 02:08 PM	#14
Innovator Aquarium Advice Addict Community Mentor Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 1,597	Dwarf octopus leaves little to the imagination. Just about every octopus that comes in with liverock or that lfs' sell are called dwarfs because they cannot identify the species. The biggest concern with octopus' in general are pH and PO4 along with heavy circulation. Most studies and experts I've spoken to have suggested they are nearly immune to that of NH3, NO2, and NO3; although, keep these as low as possible. Weekly water changes would be best, but bi-weekly would also suffice. I've found the best coverings are acrylic frames with mesh webbing using fiberglass rods and nuts to secure. Where there's a will there's a way in this setup. If you wish to keep the octopus full term, make sure you interact with it at least a couple time/day (in a perfect world). Also, take a picture so we can help identify it or at least make an attempt. I'm not sure what type of lr you have, but you don't want to interact with a Blue-ring of all species that very well could make it through a liverock shipment. In addition, you might want to create a shroud or wavebox or your octopus will most likely end up injured from any pump intake (they can and will chew threw sponge and even mesh). As for powerheads, I would just remove it since a level of concern arises in chewing a cord...same with a heater along with burns from grasping them.

09-09-2008, 11:02 PM	#19
Innovator Aquarium Advice Addict Community Mentor Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 1,597	Don't worry, they can be woken up via electrical current XD Ok, well don't do it, but it has been done lol :P Anyways, use a feeding stick (rigid tubing) with solid food at the end to entice. You can also use a lego block to push shrimp into and see if it comes out (won't go all over your tank that way). Just remember not to poke, they hate that Oh, and if you don't have any corals in the tank you can try leaving only the actinics on in hopes of it coming out.