Originally Posted by Mebbid
Are you really suggesting 820gph of flow for a 10g tank along with filling it to the brim with rock further decreasing water volume to 5 - 6 gallons max?
Shoot for 10x - 40x the tank volume per hour in flow. This is the commonly accepted range of flow rate for a salt water aquarium.
Using activated carbon (charcoal) in the aquarium
The number of aquarists here that actively use carbon in their tanks are a tiny tiny minority. It's 100% a good idea to keep on hand but for practical usage; it doesn't really do much for us. Removing odors, clarifying the water, and removing medications are it's primary uses and a healthy tank should have no need for any of that. I would suggest creating a thread asking people if they use activated carbon for feedback on just how commonly used it is.
Boyd Enterprises | Chemipure - Boyd Enterprises
Says it lasts 4 - 6 months on the site and most hobbyists I've heard from agree.
Potentially correct, also extremely vague. Water changes in a reef tank should be done based on how they are needed. A weekly 10% change is the standard but you should also be regularly testing your water to watch for anything wrong in your tank such as rising nitrates and phosphates as well as anything else going out of line. If you see parameters going out of line, then do a larger water change to make up for it.
Your water changes will also vary based on the type of tank.
- These are the most tolerant to increased nitrates and up to 20ppm is well tolerated by the fish.
Softies and LPS
- These are well acclimated to more "dirty" water and will handle up to a 10ppm of nitrate quite well.
- These are the least tolerant. You will need to shoot for as close to 0 nitrates as you can get.
With a little reasoning, a sps
tank will need a lot more water changes than a FOWLR
I couldn't agree more, which is why I posted links in my response. Never be afraid to ask people where they got their information.
I don't appreciate your rude, arrogant and incorrect comments.
Using Internet links doesn't prove any of your points. Actually it contradicts your closing statement?
A small minority of the Reefing community uses online forums. So that doesn't count for anything.
Yes, 860gph for a 10g tank.... It all has to do with where the Powerheads are placed. If you put one into the rock formation, then the water movement will be lesser throughout the tank. It will also prevent the dead spots inside of the aquascape.
The other 420 just for the entire tank.
It's has been done. I've run my 10 like that, and it's works extremely well.
You're range of flow is incorrect. 20-60x for the reef is more accurate.
The Chemipure was my fault though.
The comment about the 20ppm nitrates in a FOWLR
is a terrible idea. Fish can be extremely sensitive to Nirtates, and they will die in the tank.
Suggesting up to 20ppm is very very, inhumane and shouldn't be done.
You should always try to keep nitrates around 5ppm. Even with SPS
0 is a bad idea. 2-3ppm is a better idea. To clean can cause STN problems.
I've been in this hobby for over 5 years, so I know at least a thing or two about the hobby.