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Old 10-01-2014, 10:38 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Macscale View Post
OP. If you want to run the tank without a HOB filter, this is what you should be doing.

Instead of the 8 pounds of rock you want to use, shoot for 15-20. That way it will make up for the biological media.

Use two Koralia 420s. This way your detritus won't settle, since you won't have a filter to pick it up.
Are you really suggesting 820gph of flow for a 10g tank along with filling it to the brim with rock further decreasing water volume to 5 - 6 gallons max?

Shoot for 10x - 40x the tank volume per hour in flow. This is the commonly accepted range of flow rate for a salt water aquarium.

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Some info on HOBS.
Carbon is an extremely common media.. So the comment about nobody using it made no rational sense. It is most commonly used in reactors, but many people run it in HOBs. It lasts for long periods of time, reduces tank odors, and makes your water clear as heck.
Using activated carbon (charcoal) in the aquarium

The number of aquarists here that actively use carbon in their tanks are a tiny tiny minority. It's 100% a good idea to keep on hand but for practical usage; it doesn't really do much for us. Removing odors, clarifying the water, and removing medications are it's primary uses and a healthy tank should have no need for any of that. I would suggest creating a thread asking people if they use activated carbon for feedback on just how commonly used it is.

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Chemipure is a mixture of carbon GFO and some special stuff. There are 3 different types available at the moment. Chemipure, Chemipure ELITE, and Chemipure Blue.
Chemipure is the original, and does its job well. Basically combines GFO and carbon. Chemipure ELITE is a little more advanced. It works faster, and is more common to find. Chemipure Blue was released a few months ago.. I've never used it so I can't tell you much.
Any of the Chemipures last around 6 weeks.
Boyd Enterprises | Chemipure - Boyd Enterprises

Says it lasts 4 - 6 months on the site and most hobbyists I've heard from agree.


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Without the HOB, I'd also recommend doing water changes more frequently. Maybe 2-3 gallons 2x a week.
Potentially correct, also extremely vague. Water changes in a reef tank should be done based on how they are needed. A weekly 10% change is the standard but you should also be regularly testing your water to watch for anything wrong in your tank such as rising nitrates and phosphates as well as anything else going out of line. If you see parameters going out of line, then do a larger water change to make up for it.

Your water changes will also vary based on the type of tank.
For example:
FOWLR - These are the most tolerant to increased nitrates and up to 20ppm is well tolerated by the fish.

Softies and LPS - These are well acclimated to more "dirty" water and will handle up to a 10ppm of nitrate quite well.

SPS - These are the least tolerant. You will need to shoot for as close to 0 nitrates as you can get.

With a little reasoning, a sps tank will need a lot more water changes than a FOWLR tank.


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The problem with your research is that your finding varying opinions on the Internet and they're getting to you.
Always research any purchase before you buy it, and never ever stop researching.
I couldn't agree more, which is why I posted links in my response. Never be afraid to ask people where they got their information.
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Old 10-01-2014, 10:45 AM   #32
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IMHO it comes down to this, this is the ops first salt tank and they will need a place to run some media (at the very least phosphate, because who among is didn't have their first sw tank turn into an algae night mare) because it will take a while to learn the system and what it can handle.
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Old 10-01-2014, 11:45 AM   #33
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IMHO it comes down to this, this is the ops first salt tank and they will need a place to run some media (at the very least phosphate, because who among is didn't have their first sw tank turn into an algae night mare) because it will take a while to learn the system and what it can handle.

I think I'll pick up some chemi-pure and just run that.


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Old 10-01-2014, 11:48 AM   #34
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If you're gonna use just chemi pure get the elite version. That way it has at least a bit of GFO to help with phosphates.


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Old 10-01-2014, 11:50 AM   #35
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If you're gonna use just chemi pure get the elite version. That way it has at least a bit of GFO to help with phosphates.


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Okay, does it come in pre-packaged bags? The jar thing that I keep seeing just looks like loose media.


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Old 10-01-2014, 11:51 AM   #36
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Yeah it is pre packaged. Just rinse it well before use as it needs it


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Old 10-01-2014, 05:25 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Mebbid View Post
Are you really suggesting 820gph of flow for a 10g tank along with filling it to the brim with rock further decreasing water volume to 5 - 6 gallons max?



Shoot for 10x - 40x the tank volume per hour in flow. This is the commonly accepted range of flow rate for a salt water aquarium.







Using activated carbon (charcoal) in the aquarium



The number of aquarists here that actively use carbon in their tanks are a tiny tiny minority. It's 100% a good idea to keep on hand but for practical usage; it doesn't really do much for us. Removing odors, clarifying the water, and removing medications are it's primary uses and a healthy tank should have no need for any of that. I would suggest creating a thread asking people if they use activated carbon for feedback on just how commonly used it is.





Boyd Enterprises | Chemipure - Boyd Enterprises



Says it lasts 4 - 6 months on the site and most hobbyists I've heard from agree.









Potentially correct, also extremely vague. Water changes in a reef tank should be done based on how they are needed. A weekly 10% change is the standard but you should also be regularly testing your water to watch for anything wrong in your tank such as rising nitrates and phosphates as well as anything else going out of line. If you see parameters going out of line, then do a larger water change to make up for it.



Your water changes will also vary based on the type of tank.

For example:

FOWLR - These are the most tolerant to increased nitrates and up to 20ppm is well tolerated by the fish.



Softies and LPS - These are well acclimated to more "dirty" water and will handle up to a 10ppm of nitrate quite well.



SPS - These are the least tolerant. You will need to shoot for as close to 0 nitrates as you can get.



With a little reasoning, a sps tank will need a lot more water changes than a FOWLR tank.









I couldn't agree more, which is why I posted links in my response. Never be afraid to ask people where they got their information.

I don't appreciate your rude, arrogant and incorrect comments.

Using Internet links doesn't prove any of your points. Actually it contradicts your closing statement?
A small minority of the Reefing community uses online forums. So that doesn't count for anything.

Yes, 860gph for a 10g tank.... It all has to do with where the Powerheads are placed. If you put one into the rock formation, then the water movement will be lesser throughout the tank. It will also prevent the dead spots inside of the aquascape.
The other 420 just for the entire tank.
It's has been done. I've run my 10 like that, and it's works extremely well.

You're range of flow is incorrect. 20-60x for the reef is more accurate.

The Chemipure was my fault though.

The comment about the 20ppm nitrates in a FOWLR is a terrible idea. Fish can be extremely sensitive to Nirtates, and they will die in the tank.
Suggesting up to 20ppm is very very, inhumane and shouldn't be done.
You should always try to keep nitrates around 5ppm. Even with SPS 0 is a bad idea. 2-3ppm is a better idea. To clean can cause STN problems.


I've been in this hobby for over 5 years, so I know at least a thing or two about the hobby.
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Old 10-01-2014, 05:30 PM   #38
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Yes, 860gph for a 10g tank.... It all has to do with where the Powerheads are placed. If you put one into the rock formation, then the water movement will be lesser throughout the tank. It will also prevent the dead spots inside of the aquascape.
The other 420 just for the entire tank.
It's has been done. I've run my 10 like that, and it's works extremely well.

You're range of flow is incorrect. 20-60x for the reef is more appropriate.

I've chosen a Koralia 1600, this is shifting at least 45x my tanks volume..
I've also heard that Koralia's spread the flow rather than direct it.

Surely this is strong enough.


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Old 10-01-2014, 05:39 PM   #39
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I've chosen a Koralia 1600, this is shifting at least 45x my tanks volume..
I've also heard that Koralia's spread the flow rather than direct it.

Surely this is strong enough.


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How many gallons is that?
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Old 10-01-2014, 05:40 PM   #40
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You'd be better off with 2 smaller ones than one large, that will help randomize the flow a little more.
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