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Old 05-25-2006, 08:22 AM   #21
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Rock will displace the water, so leave the top 3rd until you add your rock. IMO, you can mix the salt in a bare bottom tank with a couple of well placed powerheads (you'll use those later for everyday tank circulation anyway). You should be able to get pretty close to the target salinity level - 55g @ 2/3 full = 36g. Now, use the cup per gallon directions on the salt bag/bucket to get there. If you miss it, you got plenty of time with the remaining 1/3 to fill.

After the salt mix, I added bottom layer of rock. I went for flatter dry rock pieces and added sand on top and around'm. Then I began stacking the others. I kept rock on the bottom of the tank as opposed to on top of the sand to ensure those burrowing creatures didn't cause rocks to shift and fall.

Dechlorinator? Hmmm. Not something I'm familiar with, but I'm thinking if you use RO/DI filtered water, you won't have any problems with chlorine.

Your LFS should have that book. If not, see the library (top of page) at this site too.

Check out the AquaC HOB skimmers. I hear good things about'm.
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Old 05-25-2006, 09:29 AM   #22
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If you use live sand and live rock you need to mix your water before adding them. A lot of people mix there water out of the tank in a large can. If your using play sand then I would add the sand first and cover with plastic garbage bag then place a bowl on top of that and then add the water to the tank by pouring it into the bowl.. Doing it like this will help prevent a sand storm in the tank.
Mix in the salt when full and bring up to temp before adding the Lr. You also want to add the dechlorinator before adding anything live like sand or rock.
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Old 05-25-2006, 09:32 AM   #23
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Is it better to go with a skimmer or sump? Which is better in the long run with PWC as well? I was told PWC are actually easier on SW tanks over Freshwater. That is hard to imagine... My freshwater PWC are easy... I just break out the ole Python once a week and my Cichlids are always happy.
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Old 05-25-2006, 10:13 AM   #24
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Skimmer and sump IMO. You can hide heaters, UV, Rowaphos bag (if/when needed), add supplements, dosing etc in the sump. More water volume is always good too. Water changes and top-offs go better with a sump IMO also.
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Old 05-25-2006, 10:27 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by austinsdad
Skimmer and sump IMO. You can hide heaters, UV, Rowaphos bag (if/when needed), add supplements, dosing etc in the sump. More water volume is always good too. Water changes and top-offs go better with a sump IMO also.
In your post I read you recommended some sumps and powerheads... However when I follow the links it goes to a whole bunch of different models of the powerhead by that company... You did specify a couple models such as the Marineland Penguin 1140 for 55 or less. However for my situation with a 75 gallon you recommended the Seio Superpump... however the link takes me to a page that shows the Seio M620, the M1500, the M2600 etc...

Can you recommend a sump and skimmer for a 75 gallon so I can see the GPH I should be shooting for etc and kind of set a standard for what I should find? The skimmer works as an overflow as well correct?

Also which would be better iyho

http://www.aquariumguys.com/48orbitsunpaq.html

or

http://www.aquariumguys.com/lunaraqualight2.html
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Old 05-25-2006, 11:34 AM   #26
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Check this HOB skimmer out. Its pump (Mag3) is rated at about 350gph.

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewIt...dproduct=ACRPB

I used the 4x65 Orbit on my 72g and it did fine. Not familiar with the other at all. See my gallery for pics of my 72g (before the xenia crash) with that light. Had plenty of nice coral and even kept a deresa clam for about 3 years and it did great.

Once you're at the Marinedepot site above, check out the other skimmers for in sump applications. They'll have matched pumps so you can get an idea of gph needs for certain sized tanks.

I had 3 Maxijet Powerheads in my 72 with a controller (Red Sea Wavemaster) to alternate flow to simulate reef currents.

If you use a sump and insump skimmer, you'll most likely have to deal with something like this http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_...pr.asp?CartId=

...assuming yur tank isn't reef ready/bottom drilled w/overflox box.
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Old 05-26-2006, 03:38 PM   #27
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To start out would it be ok to get the sump and add the in sump skimmer later? I was thinking a hob skimmer if I am going to add a sump later would not be the smartest? I am correct in thinking sump 1st and skimmer later right?

I was told I could do the LR and LS and get things going with FOWLR and add Corals later, however to be smart about what I buy knowing it will be a reef tank later.
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Old 05-29-2006, 12:08 AM   #28
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Welp I now have the help of a friend who knows saltwater and he has hooked me up with the guys from Premium Aquatics which are right here in town. We have the salt level at 1.024 and we have a little bit of Live Rock in there. He recommended I put a Green Chromis in there to help cycle, which I might add this week.

He recommended I add a sump later but for now I was fine with the tank only and live rock. He said a 10 gallon was prolly too small for the sump box under the tank, and that I should get a little something bigger and use at least a 700 gallon magdrive pump for the return pump. He explained how the sump and overflow works better so I now understand that stuff pretty good and hopefully after I get all the LR and sand etc set up and after about a month or so I should be all set to add some livestock.

Hopefully it sounds like I am on the right track. My son and I were quite happy we were able to get the tank 5/8ths full and the salinity dead on.
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Old 05-29-2006, 10:13 PM   #29
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While in the 1st cycle with just LR must I have a heater yet?
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Old 05-30-2006, 08:08 AM   #30
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Not sure if totally necessary, but I'd opt for regular tank temperature and use the heater. If the water/ambient temp in the room is kinda chilly, things wouldn't seem to decompose as efficiently IMO. Kinda like refrigeration would keep foods from doing so.
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